.Cover: Student Designer reviews: Milan
Following up our previous post about the reviews of the Men’s Fashion shows in London, here are reviews about London College of Fashion student’s favourite shows in Milan:
MARCO STORM BRASKOV – JIL SANDER
The Jil Sander SS15 collection encapsulates the idea of minimalism and structure with a splash of playfulness and colour. I relate to the baggy 90s trousers, chunky sandals and am inspired by the youthful and sporty take on traditional men’s garments. I love that they have such a high attention to detail, matching the bright yellow sporty stripes with equally vibrant piping for the jacket seams. The outfits are in watercolour tones, which make them merge together and create a beautiful soft, floating look of purity set in a sharp contemporary silhouette.
LUKE BULLEN – ANDREA POMPILIO FOR CANALI
The stand out collection for me of the Milan shows was easily Andrea Pompilio, as all elements from colours, fabrics, cuts and silhouettes all worked effortlessly together to create a very sophisticated, wearable and modern collection. His simple use of untucked layers, some pleated and some in different block colours all layered on top of each other, transforms a simple shirt to an entirely new type of garment. Andrea Pompilio’s collection inspires me as a designer because it very successfully manages to create something very modern by layering different lengths, fabrics and colours to create something new. This should never be a criterium as to why one likes a collection and even though this isn’t my personal style, I would wear every single piece. I find it very aspiring to be able to visually create a collection that real people can identify with. It’s very modern, clean and pulls of two quite simple features; layering and holes, in an effective way that looks very wearable as well being creatively unhindered.
NICOLE PASKAUSKAS – MARNI
Marni’s selective use of deep hues of colour and occasional print make this my most influential collection from Milan’s menswear SS15 fashion week. The collection follows a theme of ‘contemporary urban wanderer’, using tailored but comfortable shapes with well thought-out bold pattern and textile placements ensuring a functional and slick wearability. Marni remains consistent with clever use of layering and styling throughout. The selective use of colour and layering of the garments have influenced my own design – as well as the way in which a statement piece is paired with a more simple textile to balance each look.
LAURA NEEDLE – Prada Menswear S/S 2015
For me, this collection is a line up of desirable classics that are clean and reflect quality throughout the looks. With a bold use of the embroidered faux denim stitch throughout, appearing in contrast – almost unreal and graphic, the stitch highlights the garments clean edge and enhances detail against a muted yet strong colour palette. Familiar colour and design normalises this classical collection and comforts you leaving consideration for finish and fabric. As an up-coming designer, pattern cutting closely followed by intelligent use of fabric in a clean and desired design leads me to appreciate and feel inspired by this Menswear Collection.
CHARLOTTE KNOWLES – Corneliani
Corneliani’s colour palette included sandy camels, blues, soft beige, stone and cool greys; epitomising a beach-y italian summer. A crisp italian cut of trouser and neat shirts, with clean, minimalistic jackets. The addition of the laid back, smooth, clean cardigans and hoodies added a casual feel to this beautifully cool collection. I loved the wrapped sandals – I really want a pair. This designer epitomises Italian fashion design, adding a youthful, current edge with his clever use of styling and combination of garments.