The Twenty SS20 Issue

Daily Uniform

By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford

Uniform is both obvious and understated. When we think of uniform we think of military uniforms, men in uniforms, women in uniform; firemen, health, police officers, these are obvious examples. But every day, we unconsciously put on an outfit, expressing who we are ‘our daily work uniform’.Here we explore the idea of daily uniforms for our theme of the month Formal

Uniform: adjective

denoting a garment forming part of a person’s uniform.

remaining the same in all cases and at all times; unchanging in form or character.

noun

the distinctive clothing worn by members of the same organization or body or by children attending certain schools.

Expression through fashion is a timeless subconscious portrayal of our personalities, whether you follow trends or not. All tailoring routes from a military background, this is generally seen in a silhouette of waisted jackets with prominent shoulders, overcoat being a dominant example of how military clothing has be redesigned again and again helping to stand against time. The overcoat originally was large, woolen, double-breasted, and floor-length designed to fit over the soldier’s pack, uniform and equipment. Later in history lapel were added and volume taken town – creating the officer’s coat of WWII. Other military influences are thick belts, designed as both decorative and to support weapons. Nearly every men’s garment has its roots in either dress or combat uniforms which has been adapted for fashion from men’s to womenswear.

A perfect example of this modern-day tailoring injection is the Spring Summer 2020 from Coach.

The inspiration for Coach’s SS20 collection was 90’s, New York. While staple pieces like black blazers are still featured with this collection, its approach is a more modern and untraditional look on tailoring, with a heavy focus on outerwear. Military details are subtly injected into pieces via buckles and belts ordinary elements to garments that may be overlooked but have a historical background.

When L’AGENCE tackles tailoring, it does so with effortlessness and understatement. Yes, that even applies to something that might otherwise be OTT: a double-breasted blazer: says Selfridges

This understated yet powerful collection for spring 2020 is a perfect example of a combination of being classic and fresh with tailoring. Taking traditional suiting fabrics of tweed, and updating the silhouette into mini shorts for a fresh power suit. While encouraging tailoring into your everyday wardrobe with a staple black blazer that can be dressed up or down. Again the military influence comes in small, but important ways, like the double breast detail, colour and even shape of the buttons upon the blazers.

Eudon Choi may have taken a step back for the spring-summer season by not doing a catwalk show. But definitely moved forward in practical clothing. Always modern and always chic Choi’s approach to tailoring and suiting is always in a reconstructed fresh sense of design. From the bold colour palette to the details of slits and cuts in jackets, the SS20 collection is a perfect example of a fresh take on a timeless silhouette.  The waisted belt and overall cut of trousers and shorts all can be seen in a similar silhouette to military references.

For Spring Summer 2020 Burberry took a look back at its foundations. The collection is titled Evolution looking at the time Burberry was founded. The Victorian era, this can be seen injecting into the colour palette of the collection and its tailoring silhouette injections.

The womenswear pieces of tailoring take form heavily in skirts, jackets coats and many more. Taking tailoring into a non-traditional style. While the menswear pieces above all have a modern feel, they are traditional in the presentation of the head to toe suits. 

Burberry founded with the ideals to protect from the ever-changing British weather, revolutionising rainwear. With the infamous trench coat being invented during the first world war.

The Burberry trench coat is invented during the First World War. The functional design includes epaulettes used to suspend military equipment such as gloves and whistles, D-rings used to carry grenades, the gun flap to provide additional protection when in action and the storm shield to allow water to run off it smoothly :1914-18 Burberry

This can be seen not just on the catwalk across both men’s and women collections but is also seen on the high street, transcending across all aspects of fashion. Both Topshop and Topman’s new pieces for the spring-summer 202 season are an injection of a contemporary classic. Keeping cuts of jackets for men classic, but coming in a colour palette of pastels and pattern creating showstopping pieces. While the women’s pieces experiment with cuts and shapes of the suits, with drop waits, asymmetric hems and wide legs all create a contemporary strong and feminine look on the classic suit. 

Explore last months theme Linear via fashion is our post.