Function: Boucheron World Perfumes

By Jo Phillips

Hailing from 1858, Boucheron’s initial function was jewellery making, with a focus on innovation in technical, artistic and aesthetic changes. In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron became the first jeweller to move to the infamous Parisian address Place Vendôme. Legend has it that he chose 26 Place Vendôme, where Boucheron remains to this day because it was the sunniest corner of the square. He believed that the diamonds in the windows would sparkle all the more brilliantly.

A few hundred years on and it was another family member who took the decision to add fragrance to the house. It was Alain Boucheron who set out on the journey to expand the business into fragrance in 1988 when the first scent was launched. Since that day, they have delved deep into the secrets of perfumery with the help of professional perfumers such as Dominique Ropion to create scents true to their heritage.

Once of the new trends in perfume is to have perfume collections and being on the cusp of this trend are Boucheron. Their newly launched collection consists of six scents: Tubereuse de Madras, Oud de Carthage, Ambre d’Alexandrie, Iris de Syracuse, Neroli d’Ispahan and Vanille de Zanzibar.

Each created by distinct perfumiers, it is made up of a harvest of the best exotic scents from all around the world and represents Boucheron’s tradition for hunting the best raw ingredients. The scents that all derive from different parts of the world are diverse and authentic, as is the history of Boucheron. They are interconnected through different crystals and diamonds which is what first attracted the Boucheron family to world travel.

The bottles represent the golden double gadroons that Maison Boucheron is so known for and the transparent glass reveals the coloured liquids. The scents are collated by expert perfumers including Nathalie Lorson, Christophe Raynaud, Fabrice Pellegrin, Jean-Christophe Herault, Dominique Ropion.

The brand has always had strong ties to India that still prevail today; the Maharaja of Patiala visited the Boucheron shop in 1928 to inquire about custom made jewellery. Their travels to countries such as India have inspired their scents through the memories from these exotic trips. That is why scents such as Tubereuse De Madras feel so authentic and take us to another place.

Tubereuse De Madras  – Christophe Raynaud
In the top notes, petals of Orange Blossom, Violet Leaf, and tangy Passion Fruit.
In the middle Ylang Ylang, Frangipani Flower, with Tuberose Infusion.
The base Vanilla with Tuberose Absolute.
It comes from the Eastern Indian city of Madras where the Boucheron explorers first found the sacred flower. It is reminiscent of the misty air and mystique of Madras. The creator Christophe Raynaud has a deep personal interest in architecture, which Madras excels at and the most important aspect of creating perfumes for him is maintaining harmony.

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Oud de Carthage – Dominique Ropion
Top notes of Incense and Honey.
Middle notes of  Labdanum Absolute and Tonka Bean.
The base distinction with two accords: Oud and Leather.
Oud de Carthage is all about the travels to Tunisia and the brown sandy landscapes, constantly changing through gusts of wind. It is a scent named after Carthage, an ancient empire with a history in trading Oud Wood, gemstones, incense and spices. The scent of Oud is a representation of the fascination with the orient and is powerfully captivating. Created by Dominique Ropion who has always understood the world around him through olfactory experiences, the scent gets an added layer of intellect.

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Ambre d’Alexandrie. – Jean-Christophe Hérault
Top notes Creamy Vanilla and Benzoin with Narguile accord.
Middle notes of Cistus resin, and Amber.
Base notes a bed of Ambergris with carnal Musk.
The dramatic, spicy and hot sunsets of the ancient Egyptian city of Alexandria inspired Ambre d’Alexandrie. Amber, a stone with a strong character that originates from this ancient city, brings hypnotising spices into the set of fragrances. The drama of the scent may also derive from the background of its creator Jean-Christophe Herault, who has a passion for literature and art and explores their link to perfumery constantly.

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Iris De Syracuse – Nathalie Lorson
A floral iris, vibrant and elegant.
The top notes tangy Mandarin, juicy and crunchy Pear with a spicy touch of Black Pepper.
The middle note Iris Concrete Jasmine Petals, almond blossom embodied by Heliotrope.
The base note Patchouli veil, Vanilla White Musks bring infinite softness to this base.
Iris De Syracuse derives from the sunny, sweeping cliffs of Sicily in Italy. Its focus is on the violet amethyst and the opening up of the flower, releasing all the scents that it has to offer. Even though it’s a delicate nectar, the fragrance enhances its best qualities. Nathalie Lorson’s sensibility as a perfumer lends well to this delicate scent as well as her passion for creating scents that can feel intimate to the wearer.

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Neroli d’Ispahan – Fabrice Pellegrin
Top notes of Green Cardamom and Ginger, accentuated by the fresh and peppery facets of Elemi.
Followed by  Neroli, and  Pink Peppercorn.
Base notes bring White Musks, together with woody and warm Patchouli Essence.
Neroli d’Ispahan is an homage to the intricate architecture of the city of Isfahan and the flower it derives from. The Persian city was at the crossroads of the silk and spice trade but is also the home of precious stones. The desert sun and greenery is the perfect roaming ground for orange trees, where Neroli derives from and the scent represents this contrasting environment. With Fabrice Pellegrin’s roots in Grasse on the French Riviera, he can appreciate the power of the sun in enhancing olfactory experiences.

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Vanille de Zanzibar – Nathalie Lorson
Top Notes – Mandarin, Jasmine, Pear
Heart Notes – Bourbon Vanilla, Balsam of Peru, Heliotrope
Base Notes – White Musks, Sandalwood and Patchouli
Vanille de Zanzibar derives from the wild, uncontrollable sea waves of Africa, touching on the shores of the continent. The scent has a sense of escapism, as does the city on Zanzibar with its tropical seaside charm. Here it is mixed with a whole array of other milky aspects such as honey, tobacco and amber, making it a warm comforting scent. Nathalie Lorson’s perfectionist nature gave the perfume its unique touch and a exotic addition to the collection.

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A delightful collection of six intoxicating fragrances tied together by a love of travel and a love of scent…

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