London 1 SS20

By Jo Phillips

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Mary Katrantzou

She historically premiered her new collection at the Temple of Poseidon in Greece successfully by donating ticket revenue to children’s charity, Elpida. The Greece-born designer’s collection featured bold and colourful floor-length embroidered tulle ball gowns with some standout pieces that featured very round silhouettes and jewel tones that represent the greek ideology.

J W Anderson

Inspired by nothing other than the simplicity of observing beauty, Anderson’s new collection had jewelry encrusted bras on top of loosely cinched waists and ankle dresses and suits as the highlights of his show. Goddess-like draping of cotton canvas dresses and tops contrasted the black and beige structured strappy suits. 

Christopher Kane

His new collection draws from the nature-lover and being one with the environment, thus featuring plenty shades of greens, yellows and browns in structured silhouettes. The collection has notes of grassy floral fields in elegant neutral and black colours with the occasional pop of vibrant coloured tulle and lace dresses.   

Roksanda

The minimalistic and initially grey neutral pallet transformed into vibrant shades of red and orange, which demonstrated that the new collection stems from the Serbian-born designer’s longing to combine modern architecture and fashion. The clean designs mix with long loose cotton, jersey, and tulle to effortlessly and lightly drape over the body. The collection featured lots of capes, sashes, and detachable inner jackets. 

Halpern

The New York-raised designer created his new collection around neon greens, blacks, golds, silvers, patterns, sequins, and glitter and reflected on old Hollywood glamour with the balloon sleeve dresses being a large characteristic of the show. Some of the over-the-top and loose and flowy liquid gold, silver, and black dresses and wave-patterned dresses were inspired by actress Barbra Streisand and the production fashion from the Ziegfeld Follies. 

Marques Almeida

Inspired by modern feminism and young cool-girl activism, the designers created the line full of vibrant lime greens, electric blues, blacks, and reds, and peach tones. The line focuses on baggy and oversized silhouettes made of light taffeta and satin among others.  

Ports

The bright pattern-filled collection displayed a lot of red brick tones ranging from orange, red, brown and black. The line had a lot of collared pieces and accessorized mainly with colourful chunky necklaces whilst the silhouettes were generally loose and straight long pieces.

Roland Mouret

The tailored yet flowy silhouette was inspired by the idea of focusing more on being kind than on what you own, is also reflected in the natural and neutral colours of whites, creams, pastel lilacs, beige and light blues. The oversized street workwear filled with light patterns and natural colours complements the wide-leg trousers and flowy skirts. 

Simone Rocha

The European folk aspect of the line could be seen in the blue and white ruffled tulle dresses and eyelet cuts. The dresses have a slightly oversized silhouette in colours ranging from tan to white and black lace trims. Some of the models wore hand-painted feathers on their foreheads to accessorize their Irish inspired midi and long ruffled dresses. 

Ashish

Characterized by its very colourful circle mirror patterns, this collection reflected it’s Indian inspiration. The line included denim and cotton pieces embroidered with magnets and colours with track-suit silhouettes and oversized blouses and dresses. 

David Koma

The Kenya inspired beadwork of the line is characterized by it’s black, white, beige, and pop of orange colours. The line has sparkling zebra print catsuits, dresses, and tops mixed with iridescent trench coats, capes, and leather jackets in a fitted silhouette. 

Edeline Lee

In between the Georgette fabric dresses in simple cuts and streamlined silhouettes were the actresses wearing navy blue buckled dresses acting out everyday issues among society. The models walked around the actresses in their red, tonal blue, mustard yellow, primary greens and white A-line dresses often in solid colours but with a twist of zebra print patterns. All styled with colourful crew socks and strapped mule heels.   

London 2 p8