The Twenty SS20 Issue

London 3 SS20

By Olivia Preston

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Matty Bovan

York’s finest, Matty Bovan has incorporated the idea of uniform into his designs to create his ready-to-wear collection with his combination of heavy layered prints, patchwork and embroidered details and clashing colours, breathes new air into his artistry. The SS20 collection was utilitarian and styled with diamond-shaped belt bags and black eyeliner. Bovan’s work featured magnified glass rectangles on his models to distort and warp their faces.

Preen

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi collection is sustainable, stylish and subtly nods to contemporary Japanese fashion. Their memories of traveling to Japan has influenced the SS20 designs and references works of Junya Watanabe and Rei Kawakubo through their silhouettes. From tom-boy styled party dresses to trench coats and asymmetrical hemlines, these new designs tick the box of being sustainable as much of the fabric comes from previous collections and the georgette used has been made from recycled plastic bottles and textile waste.

Roberts Wood

SS20 collection by Roberts Wood uses reworked fabrics from previous seasons to create new and flattering dress designs. Sheer fabric heavily featured, along with a new vision of embroidery in her pieces – this highlights the attention-to-detail that goes into each design. Transparency of the dresses in the collection draws on the notions of vulnerability and femininity.

Richard Malone

Advocate for sustainable fashion, Richard Malone takes his inspiration for his SS20 collection from the disciplines of sculpture and art. His upcycled approach to black tie incorporates ‘supermarket’ blues, greens and reds to create modern dresses and gowns. Materials used for the pieces have been sustainably sourced and recycled, including wool from a community of female weavers from Southern India. In his new designs, the Irish designer has frequently explored what he calls ‘weird contrasts.’

Dilara Findikoglu

Since graduating from Central Saint Martins three years ago, the London-based Turkish designer, Dilara Findikoglu has come into her own, which is evident with her SS20 collection. 75% of her designs showcased were sustainably made – using up-cycled garments and techniques from her native Turkey.  She combines bright colours, subdued pinks and whites along with cut-out details subvert the traditional notion of designing. Findikoglu is part of the new generation of designers that are both fashion and environmentally conscious. 

Fashion East

Ancuta Sarca’s up-cycled shoes are the ultimate sneaker-heel hybrid. The use of secondhand heels and trainers allows each piece to be eco-friendly whilst still being as on-trend as ever. Gareth Wrighton’s inspiration for his collection was the internet – Lolita dresses, sexual slogan tops and gunshot prints. His fresh take on modern fashion offers new ways to explore fashion in the digital age. Yuhan Wang, joined Wrighton on the runway with her collection, which she calls – ‘a Chinese way of looking at western romantic tropes’. The laced, draped and heavily patterned pieces shows beauty with weirdness, delicacy, softness and sensibility, according to Yuhan. 

Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead’s SS20 collection is as elegant as ever, showing the female form in all its beauty through her dresses and fitted garments. Conventional lady dressing is pushed to its boundaries with cut-out torso details, billowing shoulders and classic collars. Candy shades of orange, yellow and pink add softness to the structured dresses in her collection. 

Margaret Howell

This collection incorporates earthy tones with black and white in a way that gives all the designs a timeless, androgynous feel. The definitive designing from Howell brings together the utilitarian and the tailored in a new form, styled carefully with slouchy socks, flat leather sandals and black woolen beanies. The designs are versatile and fresh, giving classic styles a new twist.

Marta Jakubowski

Polish designer, Marta Jakubowski’s SS20 collection oozes elegance and power through using blue and green hues partnered with earthy browns and beiges and deep purples. The looks were inspired by iconic heroines in current and classic cinema – characters like Lola from Run Lola Run and actress, Marlene Dietrich. Multi-draped tailoring, reimagined leather and square necklines combine to create timeless pieces.

Mark Fast

Mark Fast’s collection takes inspiration from the burning Amazon with birds of paradise and snakeskin that feature throughout. Pinks, greens and blues come together to create looks that are partnered with his signature crochet and knitted Lycra dresses and fitted blazers. Laced-up heels and simplistic makeup were styled with the designs.

Sharon Wauchob

Irish designer, Sharon Wauchob’s SS20 collection was showcased in a light-filled church in Marylebone. With her foundations rooted in Saville Row, its unsurprising to see that her designs embody gender-fluidity with sheer fabrics, fringe and open-toe sandals. There was a soulfulness and reality brought to her evening clothes, that were as classic as ever. Black, pearl and varying shades of brown came together here to create synergy in her collection.

Victoria Beckham

This SS20 collection shows neat-and-together tailoring with a slight ’70s flavour. Draped coats, flowing, waist-free silk ankle-length dresses and ruffles were the highlights of her show that saw Victoria’s designs come together in a new, charming way. Mint greens, layered monochromatic patterns and modest necklines were paired with large oval sunglasses and strappy heels to create an attainable easy-chic solution.  

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