The Twenty SS20 Issue

London Fashion Week AW15 Monday

By Jo Phillips

Antonio Beradi

Antonio Beradi kicked off proceedings this morning at London Fashion Week. Beradi presented a typically polished collection, with ruffles and folded drapes inspired by architecture. Print featured heavily, as did printed lace which was Beradi-style ladylike while outerwear felt fresh and sporty.

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Roksanda

Roksanda Illincic made our heads spin this morning with swirling patterns in a sumptuous range of colours and textures. Proportions and silhouettes were generous, with high roll necks and hem lines elegantly hitting a few inches above the ankle. While the lengths were prim the colours were wild; deep burgandys, burnt oranges, bright pink and royal blue. Fabrics were rich, incorporating tweeds, furs and leather. Looks were styled with cinch waist belts with large gold buckles, pop socks and brightly coloured oversized furry clutches.

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Erdem

There were many elements incorporated into the Erdem show today, taking inspiration from retro interiors the pieces shifted between eras. The show began with dresses in chintzy floral brocade, patterns and colours then became bolder, which in turn gave way to outerwear that had an ombre fade effect and floral hems. More coats came in bright pink and purple tweed, then there was a leopard twinset and coat, followed by brightly coloured lace pieces, laser cut leather, some flippy floral dresses and some full length skirts.  Like raiding the wardrobe of an impeccable great aunt, pulling out pieces in glorious fabrics and then craftily reworking them into new shapes, this collection felt like the modern way to do vintage style.

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Burberry Prorsum

The Burberry Prorsum show was the romantic, love child of the 60s and 70s. A patchwork of pattern and print, the collection centred around folksy florals embellished with mosaic mirrors, knitted ponchos, patchwork and fringed suede and 60s coats. The colours were deep, earthy rustic hues; burgundy, teal, and olive. A free spirited collection of wafty dresses and slouchy cosy ponchos, accessorised with fringed suede bags and pompom wristbands, perfect for those unwillingly to let go of those summer festival vibes.

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Christopher Kane

As always an expansive collection from Christopher Kane. The show began with sharp, black tailored pieces onto which were gradually introduced a central motif, a series of female silhouettes. In the middle there were echoes of previous Kane collections; glitter and metallics in jewel tones, satin dresses broken up by godet panels, strapping and sheer ruffles, as well as a nod to Kane’s debut collection in the use of the safety buckle clip across several pieces. The collection came back round to the silhouette forms at the end, with dresses made up of a mass of Matisse-like body outlines in poppy coloured lace.

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Giles

A theatrical show at Giles Deacon on Monday night. This was a gothic romance of a collection, with Victoriana style gowns, white ruff necks and cuffs and black velvet. It wasn’t a sombre affair though, there was fun to be had within Giles’ gothic realm. Severe gowns in black patent and velvet, were presented alongside others in duchess satin with distorted digital print in swirling colours. Giant bows, maxi dresses with toadstool prints and several capes leant a witty element to the dramatic proceedings.

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