.Mirror: Student Designer reviews: Paris
Here, dear fashion friends, are the last reviews of the Men’s Fashion Week SS15 from Paris. Thank you to the LCF students for sharing your opinion and inspiration.
LUKE BULLEN – Walter Van Beirendonck
This collection stood out because it was fun vibrant and on top of that, very beautiful. The whole collection was a literal collage of beautiful patterns, fun prints, bold colours and contrasting fabrics from mesh and fringe – seamlessly growing out of nicely tailored suits. The collection is influential to me as designer because it is a perfect example of everything just fitting together; it is fun, interesting to look at and immediately catches one’s eye. You can easily see this collection being designed as a 2D collage with the different patterns, colours, textures and shapes – it completely works in 3D. This collection also seems to have some Asian influences with the chosen silhouettes and the Karate belts, I like how unexpected and successful all these different elements are thrown together without looking forced or clichéd.
MARCO STORM BRASKOV – Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto’s SS15 collection reflects his masterful approach to deconstruction, tailoring, textures and prints. I admire how he tells a story through his show and creates interesting characters. In the show you were met with a romantic version of a hobo, an outlaw and an artistic spirit. I have always been very inspired by his silhouettes and his way of layering the garments to complement and enhance the look. It gives a ragged but floating and effortless expression. His collection had an interesting mix of styles, which went from fitted pinstripe suits with contrasting patchwork to deconstructed baroque jackets – printed with faded glass rosettes. Towards the end of the show he introduced my favourite looks, they were in full denim, with a clear Americana vibe combined with Japanese workwear. The denim pieces became hybrids between shirts and kimonos mixed with ponchos and cropped fishermen pants. I think it is inspirational how he draws you into his quirky universe and imagination.
LAURA NEEDLE – Acne
Confident colour with a mix of juxtaposed fabrics form this relaxed collection from Acne Menswear S/S 15. Casual elements run throughout the collection with tied shirts around the waist and a balance of oversized garments meeting either slim fit shorts or trouser. The clean boxy and minimal shapes are formed through the luxurious fabrics that are then paired with a casual everyday chunky knit or jersey and then styled with a trainer or beanie hat. Although this collection creates a casual vibe, all garments have a desirable tailored and clean finish. Varied finishes feature throughout my own graduate collection, whether it is a classical and refined or a raw yet considered edge. The causal mix in my collection of slip dresses, oversized pyjama trousers with a more tailored outwear garment reminded me of Acne’s approach to SS/ 15.
NICOLE PASKAUSKAS – Kenzo
The Kenzo collection is my favourite show from Paris, their consistently strong and bold use of shapes and prints and selective use of colour are influential to me as a designer as they always reinvent their image with each collection but always also manage to follow their consistent ‘Kenzo style’ as a recognisable brand.
CHARLOTTE KNOWLES – Anne Demeulemeester
Sébastien Meunier, staying true to the Demeulemeester aesthetic, demonstrated a monochrome-esque, polished collection. Layers of crisp, lightly frayed cotton edges; raw and unlined, created a beautiful, unfussy delicacy. The silhouettes were loose and lean; cropped, rumpled trousers with long variations of tops and outerwear. His subtle incorporation of embellishment amongst the nonchalant, simplistic aesthetic illustrated a sensitivity and ability to stay loyal to the brands aesthetic, whilst adding his own injection of style. Use and exploration of texture is what inspires me; I admire his sensitivity and subtle application throughout the collection. I also applaud his clever use (or lack) of colour. Despite the absence, his choice and application are very effective and highlighted by the majoritively monochrome ‘palette’.