New York 1 SS20

By Jo Phillips

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Image on lefthand side, Marc Jacobs Beauty

Marc Jacobs

With vivid reds, oranges, greens, and yellows the 70s inspired line catered perfectly to the era. Each outfit was styled with an oversized wide-brimmed hat or large flowers in the model’s hair. Jersey and lace dresses mixed with colourful floral patterns to make beautifully loose dresses and pantsuits that exuded fun.  

Tom Ford

His new line is all about ease and the effortlessly sexy look that he achieves through his jersey scoop-neck tops and leather bra-showing black long sleeves. The mix of leather and jersey form to make the look effortlessly cool and with minimal patterns and plenty of blacks, whites, and metallics the line screams rebel. Shown in a decommissioned New York subway, the line delivers the rock and roll cool with it’s cinched waist and lose bottoms that capture the effortlessly cool look.  

Pyer Moss

Inspired by the story of being African-American in today’s society Moss displayed his third collection inspired by the stories with his line titled “Sister”. The collection had an elegant yet athletic-wear feel mixed together brought out by the loose silhouettes and structured material forming an emphasis on the shoulders. Moss used colours to mix with a base of blacks or whites, but the standout piece was a white-based crop top with large shoulder details and loose trousers that came in matching yellow, red, and black colour blocking.  

Self Portrait

The line features cotton-poplin and lace fabric that comes in vibrant orange shades, sky blue, pastel pink, and numerous natural shades. The collection’s main silhouette is short and loose mini-dresses that fall straight down from the shoulders. There were clean lines and lace-detailing mixed with square-necklines and slightly puffy shoulders with ruffles or balloon sleeves.  

Proenza Schouler

This collection was all about the working women and balancing office-wear with comfortable athleisure. The high-waists and strong shoulders and oversized feeling of the tailored suits were drawn up and inspired by the 80s. The collection mixed office tailored suits in neutral colours with asymmetrical loose blouses and cinched waists. 

Helmut Lang

The signature sheer-paneling and minimally tailored boxy suits and jackets mix this season with leather and latex to create an effortlessly minimalistic style. The color palette left largely neutral with the exception of neons and electric blues the scheme is monochromatic and relaxed. The silhouette focused on a tighter more cinched waist and looser bottom half created with lightweight and flowing materials. 

Jason Wu

For his “little sister” line, Wu played with floral patterns and midi to long dress lengths with sheer tulle and flowing materials to give the looks a younger style. The Silhouette featured cinched waists but flowing bottoms in silks and jersey materials. The line featured many florals in dark brown shades on white strappy dresses and styled with multicoloured mary-jane style pointed toe mini heels.   

The Row

The Olsen’s focus with this new line is on the boxier tops that came in round scoop neck neutrals or collard short and long sleeve button down tops with slightly tighter trousers. The collection was mainly black and white except for the pop of monochromatic beige scoop-neck sweater with the sleeves pushed up and the matching ankle-length skirt. The outfits had exciting ruffles and minimalistic tailoring mixed together to give a refreshing look at minimalistic dressing.  

Jeremy Scott

The punk-rock collection featured neon-coloured metal-inspired wigs to go along with electric coloured and pattern-filled clothes. Scott used leather and metallic with mixed prints in crazy colours to give the collection an 80’s feel. The hair was teased and in a rock-and-roll mullet cut style. The silhouette had the classic 80s big shoulders and slim waists.   

Area

Based on the classic silhouette of tailored suits and short slim yet boxy dresses the line separates itself with the use of chain and beaded fringe and loose detailing. All over the crop tops and matching bottoms to the beautiful pastel mint green loose suits, the chain fringe detailing made the line have an ultra-modern 90s glam style.  Each model was styled with chain and metal detailing across their face either hanging on their face as if a glimmering beard or adorned under the eyes and nose. 

Brock

Featuring lots of small and large floral prints, the neutral and navy blue collection is inspired by the romantic fairytale style. The silhouette of cinched waits and billowing sleeves came in a mix of sheer sleeves and corset-tight waists in dresses and tops. The line had a mix of ballooning ball gowns and straight leg jeans and trousers paired with romantic peplum tops all styled with flat strappy sandals.  

Dion Lee

In peach, black, white, beige, olive, and pops of orange, the collection had visible lingerie style inspiration with its skin-tight sheer tank tops and matching stockings and corsets. The tight fit and cinched waist silhouettes of the dresses and tops perfectly contrasted the more boxy and oversized shape of the blazers and slouchy trousers. Lee used a combination of leather and jersey cotton and lace to make the minimalistic and monochromatic outfits far from boring.   

 

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