New York 2 SS20

By Jo Phillips

Back to content

Image left-hand side Coach

Jonathan Cohen

He drew his inspiration for colourful embroidery and floral patterns from sustainability and his life between Mexico and the United States. The straight and A-line silhouettes of the short sleeveless and long dresses focus on the mixing of floral embroidered patterns, which Cohen shared was hand-stitched in Mexico. Denim, leather, and jersey materials were mixed together to create the flared jeans, suits, and sleeveless dresses. 

Coach

Taking notes from New York in the 80s,  this line has many brightly coloured red, green, and fuchsia leather trench coats as the main focus. The medium-length leather trench coats and leather pants were often styled with neutral-coloured vintage oversized graphic t-shirts featuring celebrities printed on the tees. Each model was styled with a small cross-body box-shaped coach bag and flat sandals or flats.   

3.1 Phillip Lim

A master at mixing organic cotton with leather and leather-like coated cupro, Lim designed the collection around urban sustainability. His modern and minimalistic design could be seen in his loose tailoring and pattern-mixing style. The outfits were often styled with a leather bandana draped over one shoulder or worn just in front normally with olive green and navy blue patterned suits.  

Longchamp

The inspiration of a bold-city girl mixed with a dark sunset-palette to make this collection. The mix of leather, suede, and nylon carried the sporty but elegant mix of the 80s and 90s collection. The silhouette was cinched at the waist and tight at the hips then flowed outwards towards the bottom. The short mini dresses were worn tight except for the ballooning sleeves. 

Zimmermann

Beach ware inspired, this collection has the sunset colours of vivid reds, oranges and violet shades of long flowing dresses and mini dresses. The long flowing beachy lace dresses are slim-fitted and cinched at the waist while the short minidresses feature very large ruffled sleeves in colourful patterns. The few jumpsuits in the collection differ from the silhouette of the semi-tight but flowing dresses with a loose and baggy no-waist shape. 

Christopher John Rogers

The brightly coloured orange, red, emerald green, and light blue gowns and suits mixed well with the iridescent silks, bold linens, and tulle. The silhouettes from dresses to pantsuits are oversized and baggy in mostly ankle and long lengths. The dresses balloon out and often include small tulle detailing.     

Tomo Koizumi

The new designer’s second collection takes inspiration from designing with costumes in mind. This collection features polyester organza material in ruffles upon ruffles to create the round and oversized silhouette. The brightly coloured yellows, pinks, reds, and blue dresses were all adorned with matching coloured floppy bows. 

Carolina Herrera

In bright yellows, greens, and blues this collection has the simplicity of signature looks and new takes in one collection. There are full long skirts in floral patterns or solid blacks and whites belted with an oversized white button-down shirt as a classic and new nude-coloured round tulle dress with black polka dots to bring something fresh. All the tops were oversized with most having ballooning sleeves as the common theme and the silhouette of the shorter dresses share the large sleeves but have an element of tightness around the waist and hips. 

Zero + Maria Cornejo

Inspired by the English TV show Victoria, Cornejo took the line in a more victorian era by adding corset details to many of the outfits including the pants on top of button-down blouses.  The collection was very neutral with pops of deep browns and light peach and featured printed polka dots mixed with monochromatic neutral solid colours. The loose but cinched waist silhouette was seen throughout the collection’s tailored suits and dresses. 

Tibi

Typically more structured and boxy, this new collection from Tibi features rounder shoulders and pants. The oversized look and large shouldered silhouettes are still in and mixed with nylon cargo pants and leather blazers. The neutral based line doesn’t have any patterns other than the occasional tiny pinstripe that adorns some suit and Bermuda short suit sets.  

Who Why What?