.News; Escape in Fashion
This article is a condensed version of the original piece from our recent Dark Romance issue. You can read it by clicking here.
Fashion Week is synonymous with creativity, inspiration, but most of all, exclusivity. What only few get to witness the unveiling of in-person, the rest of us scour the internet in the days after for a glimpse of what we missed. The bi-annual event hones in on our desire to be fashionable and keep up with the trends they set, giving us the colours, silhouettes, and key pieces for the upcoming season. For Spring and Summer 2018, the notion of escapism is key, with nostalgia and sensuality at the forefront; essentially, grounded in the past, yet deliberately directed away from reality.
Old World Femininity
Christian Dior is where the trending hourglass silhouette began – specifically two years after the war – with cinched waists, full skirts, and sculpted bodices resulting in a spectacle of femininity. For SS18, Markus Lupfer showed waist-cinched, maximalist-printed dresses with pleated full skirts. Temperley London presented ultra-feminine bustier dresses with fluttering sorbet tulle skirts. Jacquemus came in with oversized straw hats and brightly coloured cut-out maillots. Finally, Fendi, with strong sculpted shoulders and full skirts, presenting an ultra-luxe version of the tailored skirt suit.
Modern British Tailoring
Where suit tailoring began as a byproduct of the war, it has now become undeniably British, epitomised by the worldwide prestige of Savile Row. Eudon Choi translated this into boxy oversized suit separates in bright check and gingham patterns, with billowing plaid trousers. Mulberry’s Johnny Coca created a collection inspired by the quintessential English Rose; linen trouser suits were in pastel hues and delicate floral prints. Erdem showed feminine coats and dresses in bright sorbet tones, with outerwear cinching at the waist.
Only sheer has the power to be simultaneously sexy and conservative, suggestive yet concealing. Preen featured floaty sheer dresses, from asymmetric ruched lamé dresses sensually clinging to the body, to gently ruffled silk organza. Tuğcan Dökmen utilised different shades of overlaying tulle to create dazzling colour combinations and dreamy dresses. Rodarte showed ruffled high-necked collars and sheer floor length lace dresses. Osman created sultry loungewear out of tulle, from see-through tulle tops to robes with feathered trimming. For more insight into the SS18 sheer trend, read our ‘Sheer Satisfaction’ article here.
Designers like Mary Quant and Andre Courrèges popularised colour-blocking in ‘60s mod style, and bold and contrasting colours are at the heart of this trend; it’s all about tonal disparity. Spring 2018 showed jewel and ice-cream colour combinations. Roksanda took gathered silk tunics and handkerchief hemmed dresses in contrasting blush and fuchsia hues. Rejina Pyo presented combinations of blush and burgundy alongside striking red and blue. Sies Marjan, took it a step further, blending contemporary streetwear with a quirky preppiness, all in a bright rainbow colour palette.
To see the full article by Hannah Tan, click here.