Paris Menswear A/W 16-17 Highlights
By Jo Phillips
Cent magazine brings highlights from Paris Men’s Fashion Week, showing you an array of world class designers for AW16/17.
Chunky socks and felt slippers were styled with 1940s unstructured tailoring. Whilst Acne kept it simple with understated navys, greys with hints of pinks, they incorporated PVC trousers teaming with mixed knits and lightweight scarves.
AVOC encapsulated a real nautical feel to their AW collection, extracting inspiration from the typically French – red, white and blue. Stripes combined with rich knitted roll necks and holographic trainers took the catwalk, showing how it is still very possible to remain a smart, yet cool and fashionable gentleman.
Y/Project show inspirations taken from grunge and romance throughout the collection. Exaggerated proportions created by bondage straps and snaps dominate the silhouettes. Multi-zip bomber jackets layered over blood red leather shirts create an oversized multi textural look.
Valentino adds a graceful edge to the punk trend this AW. Three-piece tartan suits teamed with studded polished shoes radiates elements of the 80s. Coats are presented in various materials, whether it is through PVC trenches, tribal embellished blazers or fur-lined duffle coats.
Raf Simons brought to Paris’ catwalk a piece of american dream. Indeed, the designer revisited the 90’s american fashion, with those iconic football jerseys. Highly oversized jumpers, overhang sleeves, skinny trousers and denim are the signature trends of the collections. The designer speaks to a generation of young fashionable men.
Combining sportswear and tailoring is a trend that has been followed by many designers this year. ISSEY MIYAKE MEN takes a distinctive spin on it and shows cycling shorts style bottoms in a fine knit. A fluidity of patterns continues through the collection with two piece sporty knits and three piece suits with a distinct due of orange continuing throughout.
Andrea Crews set the scene of a block party in the Bronx back in the late 70s, featuring a graffiti backdrop. Oversized floral prints make an appearance with a strong feature of yellow throughout the sporty styles.
An obvious vision stemmed from 80s Japanese manga at the Julien David show. Oversized fits, buttoned-up jackets in hues of pinks, navys and teals were combined with wacky, gelled hairstyles to capture a real sense of futurism.
Yohji Yamamoto explored elements of the Japanese warrior this AW16. Particularly shown through the layering of garments, oversized scarves, heavy knits, all presented through dark tones. Illustrative details were incorporated onto pieces and models were seen sporting sported long plaits in their hair, adding an extra Japanese characteristic.
Boris Bidjan’s military influences are adapted to create a collection that focuses on the deconstruction of paratroopers uniform. The high functionality of the skydiving and parachute gear is transformed using horse, kangaroo, springbok and yak leathers to create a dynamic collection. These leathers are also used to create modular waist packs.
Maison Mihara Yashurio expressed their collection through the concept of the forever-evolving world how war is very much a part of this, as well as how this affects the way in which we dress. The AW pieces feature randomly patched, frayed and distorted designs, reflecting an exquisite sense of incompletion.
A clash of 90s and English Heritage takes a masculine form with houndstooth suits and sleeveless jackets in tartan check with quilted lining. 70s sportswear with sporty ribbons contrasts with the traditional tailoring. Green is the key colour in this collection with hues of olive, teal, moss. They sit alongside shades of hickory caramel , chestnut and taupe. All round a very autumnal palette.
Cerruti presented a sophisticated collection for the modern man. On one hand, we saw a new tailored silhouette emerge made of straight cuts, three piece suits , all crafted in luxurious fabrics. On the other hand a more relax style appeared, exemplify by bomber jacket, parkas and oversized shapes. The colour palette is revisiting mineral shades such as marble and granite, modernized with touches of burgundy.
Berluti has compressed aspects of the desert landscape of Marfa, Texas. Colours in the collection have been sampled from sun, sands, wild grasses and burnt asphalt roads. All hardware on pieces have been finished with polished copper, working beautifully with rich cashmere sweaters and leather quilted trousers.
Displaying a tailored yet easy silhouette, Kenzo showed a 90s inspired collection. Roomy wool trousers were coupled with belted waist lacquered mock croc jackets. An array of bright primary coloured trainers finish off every look and clearly defines the themes of sports and 90s style.
Sacai provides security for any cold man this Autumn/Winter with their collection, inspired by unexpected luxury and essential functionalities. Hues of red, navy, khaki are displayed throughout outfits, as soft shearling coats and regimental striped coordinates take the stage.
Songzio stays true to their avant-garden architectural structures.
The scratched glimmer of colour throughout the garments added patterns of definition and a real sophistication to the silhouette.
Etudes signature, linear silhouette is submerged in a military palette of kharki, navy and olive tones. A safety orange cuts through looks in hood linings and layered under jackets. The pair of jumpsuits float along the catwalk with suspended pockets in camo print and electric blue.
The AW collection from WOOYOUNGMI stripped it right back, taking inspiration from nature and garden rudiments. A winter palette, presented feminine hues such as moss greens, reds and pink toned beiges. Textured velvets and suede are featured on shawl-collared jackets, buttoned down shirts and flared trousers.
Henrik Vibskov showcased his AW Collection, entitled ‘The Jaw Nuts Piece’ at the Maison de la Chimie. The garments were fueled from a postmodern/Asian inspired take on the traditional Nutcracker. A dark colour palette was contrasted with vivid accents, influenced by 50s labeling and packaging.
Hermès displayed a show full of french elegance during Paris men’s fashion week. Influenced by street style, the models hit the catwalk with fabulous sneakers combine with either refined or tracksuit-inspired trousers. The style is casual yet recherché, with a predominance of vinyl and leather. To finish, the whole is accessorized with Hemès’ iconic and timeless scarfs.
Lanvin presented a relaxed elegance through their AW piece, evoking a true sensuality with loose tailored trousers; merino wool jerseys and unexpected details featured hanging on clothes or printed onto fabrics. Styles remained romantic, as the colour palette of the collection displayed beiges, light blues, burgandys and teals.
A 17th century theme was running throughout the Agnes B collection. Statement items were velvet suits, square shouldered jackets accessorised with collar chains and military fastenings. Alongside this, there was also a hint of sportswear, featuring sporty colourful jackets, baggy trousers teamed with a hat.
Paul Smith personalizes his AW collection from his past, as well as some signature designs by implementing aspects of the psychedelic 60s and 70s with peace charm accessories and paisley printed pieces.
Umit Benan exhibits ‘Tokyo Diaries’, a collection rooting back from Japanese culture. Kimonos, jacquard prints, karate trousers oozed elegance whilst being teamed with tailored classics within a colour palette, full of browns, navys, reds and whites.
Julian Zigerli’s collection, ‘Larger than Life’ was brought alive beautifully, after being artistically stimulated by personal clothing items, family photographs and familiar cartoon characters from the late 80s, early 90s. Presenting the garments through conceptual dance by dramatics group (LA)HORDE, knitted co ordinates, elasticated tracksuits and bombers provided a freedom for movement.
Astrid Andersen’s collection rediscovered the love for fur this AW. Coloured, oversized coats reflected a sense of hip hop luxury, whilst also appearing to have gained inspiration from Tudor royalty through animalistic shapes and quilted layers.
Sankuanz
Sankuanz’s collection was heavily inspired by the 1990s Asian games, resembling a magical mismatched kingdom of colours and styles. Each outfit showed no boundries, featuring PVC raincoats, pinstripe suits, fur collars, long frayed scarves and illustrative suits.
