Fashion; Upside Down and Back to Front
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
This November, we delve into the world of “Construct,” a theme that explores the innovative and experimental side of fashion design. By deconstructing traditional notions of clothing, designers for AW24 have pushed the boundaries of fabric manipulation and silhouette experimentation. From extended shapes that expand from the body to oversized or cutaway clever cutting techniques are at play here—examining the intricate methods used to create bold, sculptural pieces and the conceptual ideas that inspired them. Find out more in Fashion; Upside Down and Back to Front this month.
Deconstruction and form played a big part in the AW24 shows but expect to see this theme ‘expand’ for SS25. Here is how you can get started.
This collection, ‘Respond,’ is a reaction to Sebastiao Salgado’s images of the oil rig inferno and the impact of human decisions on the environment.
The collection focuses on the need to wear protective gear, due to hazardous environments, as seen in the clear fabrics. The looks, all together, are full of texture, and the silhouettes curve around the body, making them look sculptural.
Inspired by the vibrant Uzbekistan artisanal scene, exploring culture and handicrafts, as well as looking at Rishtan ceramics and porcelain figures.
As a result, the collection fuses sculptural form and textures. The collection features a dress whose silhouette resembles an amphora with two handles, and craftsmanship is fully centre stage.
This collection from Jack Irving via On|Off is a perfect example of constructing something that is a combination of art and fashion, based on a subterranean aquatic underworld, creating a new alien species.
his collection was showcased in a live creative installation and showcased the designer’s signature wearable inflatable art sculptures.
The AW24 collection from Marques Almedia takes a more stripped-back approach and focuses more on empowerment and energy. This can be seen directly through the diverse model cast.
Throughout the collection, volume and structured shapes take focus, taking a more wearable approach to construction but still creating bold looks that in some places feel couture-like.
: The AW24 collection from Vaquera is simply titled “Money,” where volume, texture, and layers of scribbles and stamps are seen upon distressed leather and sequins, together making looks that are constructed of a mishmash of multimedia that create truly unique silhouettes.
Following on from the AW23 collection, which looked inwards at our inner monsters, and SS24, which looked down into the ground, AW24 looks upwards and forwards into the future.
The collection titled “Spacelines” features 3D-printed glasses, padded underwear, and curved sleeves that warp the body and construct a new shape that is part streamlined and part oversized.
Serie 06 is an ode to football, a gentrification of unifying sports in working-class Britain.
The brand is known for upcycling, and this collection sees an upcycle of sportswear. This collection features both on-the-nose hints to the game and more subtle ones, in an array of silhouettes that are both bold yet clean.
The AW24 collection from Balmain is filled with embroidery, and 3D details filling the collection with craft and texture.
As always, the evidence of traditional Parisian couture techniques is presented via draping and embellishment. With the addition of metal breastplates, this collection constructs many design elements to create a voluminous collection.
This season, Matty Bovan created a film for the AW24 collection. Shot in Burton Agnes Hall in the East Riding of Yorkshire, the building’s architecture and impressive art collection perfectly add to and complement the collection. As a signature for Bovan, layers, texture, colour, and bold yet unusual silhouettes are constructed together to create looks that cross the boundaries of art and fashion.
The collection and show itself was like a live sculpture, titled “The Body As Prayer,” exploring the divinity of the Goddess Venus.
Each look created a vision of sculpture, whether 3D elements of clear quartz crystals were added, wetlook dresses draped the body and mimicked the female form, or fishnet looks were decorated with pearls, beads, and shells.
If you enjoyed reading TITLE why not try The Magic of Jewellery: Solang’s Revolution?
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