Global A/W Preview ’22
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
We have shown you what went on at London Fashion week so here have a look at whats going on from the rest of the fashion capitals. See what is emerging as new trends for A/w 2022 for both mens and women, colour texture and a rather unusual amount of flesh on show for the cold weather collections.
Soul Tech, a growing subculture, devoid of a beginning or an end. Its eternal nature comes to forefront with the advancement of technology, exploration of buried secretes of ancient civilizations and a deep dive within. It explores our flexible reality-a complex network of events onto which we project sequences of the past, present and future.
Disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun – this is Diesel for Fall/Winter 2022, this is Diesel forever. Creative director Glenn Martens presents his first catwalk show for the
brand that unleashes the Diesel world: denim, experimentation, rebellion, play.
Cavalli’s magical cut-out thus becomes scaffolding made up of fabric bars that are assembled and disassembled on the body with a gesture of feminine self-affirmation.
For Autumn/Winter 2022, Kim Jones refracts two iconic FENDI collections through a distinctly contemporary lens, reconfiguring the past for today and considering the house’s signatures with a fresh perspective.
The collection investigates the contrast between the romantic allure of the countryside and the forsaken industrial landscapes of the Danish coastline.
This season presents an inside out universe.A new dimension where natural elements come together with man-made structures and subversive digital perspective.
This season Holzweiler has been exploring weathered effects and decayed textures caused by weather on the garments. Transferred into the collection it has meant distressed hems, peeling paint, natural patinas and “the beauty of decay” as lace and delicate fabric.
This collection immerses itself in a radical point of view, merging two pop culture influences that played a vital role in the design process: Ridley Scott’s 1982 sci-fi film, Blade Runner, and Madonna’s
subversive, sexually charged style at the turn of the 1990s.
Creative conversations are the heart of this Alaïa collection – a dialogue between figures, mediums and times. Fundamentally, it is an open and ongoing conversation between now and then, between the past of Alaïa, and its future. Identifying codes, reconsidering architecture, investigating obsessions and unanticipated histories.
Beneath the surface, a power is found in this intensely insulating softness, which steadily causes silhouettes to swell and blister. Puncturing garments, this rising force eventually spills outwards, creating turgid rays that spray from figures, before coiling around and crowning them.
Nicholas Raefski’s sophomore collection “Meet Me By The Bleachers” is inspired by notions of false nostalgia – yearnings for something you never actually owned nor experienced.
“I wanted to explore literal and metaphorical winter beaches: the die-hard surfers in the chilly winter waters of California and the ice capped breakers of northeastern beaches, the slopes from Lake Placid to Aspen to Mammoth where moguls and half pipes emulate the waves.”
For Fall / Winter 2022, the L’AGENCE ready-to-wear collection embraces a darker side while evoking elements of modern romance.
For Autumn/Winter 2022, founder of AGR, Alicia Robinson, explores the notion of optical illusions. A chromatic offering from the brand, the collection pushes the boundaries of possibilities with knitwear in the most luxurious of ways.
The Deveaux Fall Winter womenswear collection is a continuation of the evolving essential wardrobe, staying true to the brands DNA of understated and minimalist whilst exploring new silhouettes and textures for the season ahead.
The collection features cool wool fabrics together with silky-looking cottons, thus enhancing the versatility of the garments at different times of the year. The tailoring with zip fastenings sets up
a dialogue between the old and the modern, a distinctive feature of the designer’s work.
Per Götesson uses leather for AW22 to offset confident masculinity with surrealism’s dreamy qualities. Leather bags become illusions as a shoulder ‘sleeve’ implies an arm, a pun on
carrying items. A waist bag alludes to pockets. This specific version questions skewed perspectives on lower body shapes as optional straps can attach to the body.
At the core, a glamorous sense of elegance persists. The desire to create aspiration, and to seduce, is condensed precisely in the idea of the club: an exclusive and private place, which can be accessed by those in the know or, simply, by the curious. The door, in fact, is always open.
Ferrari is a system in which aesthetic research is never separated from the ethics expressed in its history and it is also the synthesis of that Italian ability to transform creativity into a project.
Inspired by a new era of self-expression and a subverted take on traditional dressing codes, an irreverence for what is meant to be, and disregard for the conventions established by history are
affirmed.
“I was thinking about this idea of emotional patchworking. When I was a kid, my journey into fashion started when I started cutting things up and putting them back together. This collection is about creating from what is around us, making something new from something familiar. It is about stitching, mending, repairing. It is not destructive or anarchic – it is about the act of putting things back together, and the beauty of repair.It is experimenting with the materials at the heart of Acne Studios – denim, leather, jersey, knit – as well as elevating materials we live with every day.”
“Kristianagade 14C is my second home, it is where I spend most of my time creating the collection with the team, where I launched the brand. I want to create a window and visibility into our creative mind. Show the sketches of how the collection is coming together and how we work. I want to share the honesty, a picture of a day in our studio.”
Our men’s and women’s collections—channeling the need for knowledge, honesty and transparency to form the key arms of our collective push-back against lies, hate and aggression
AW22 is taking us back to the memorable school hallways; a place where teenagers grow, constantly doubting themselves, searching for their personal style, a time when falling in and out of love, losing and finding, are the acts that mark their coming of age.
Lost in Transition is a love letter to ourselves, unconditional and embracing of the roles we play and how this multiplicity is beautifully reconciled in each of us in the ecstasy of self-acceptance.
The collection is divided into four sections: Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Though this is a winter collection the clothes are interchangeable making a play at ideas of seasonal catwalks in an increasingly connected world of vastly different climates.
The collaboration with Mizuno continues for Autumn Winter 2022, with an oversized poncho, waterproof walking trousers and a packable tote bag, combining the expertise of Japanese sportswear with the contemporary style of Margaret Howell.
This season brings a sense of clarity, a confidence that is no longer quiet. Pieces appear armour-like, cocooning outerwear shrouding a carefully constructed second-skin, sparkling and supernatural.
The collection offers a nostalgic theme capturing the 70s zeitgeist with the piecessparkling in glossy mauve, raspberry and shades of brown.
“I think a fashion photograph is almost a social document that will take you back. The older it gets, the more interesting it is. It shows you how people lived. In my pictures, anyway.”
This ready-to-wear collection, as well as every future ready-to-wear collection, is a meditation on that contradictory identity. As with couture, the real and the empyreal challenge each other here. Here you find softness and severity, often in a single garment.
This intimate and unique feeling allowed us to question the relationship between present andpast. Such as an experimental laboratory, we are balancing old memories and archives withtechnology and artificial intelligence.Old couture techniques meet sportswear codes. Jewels, metal chains and inflated gems play-fully dance together on our prints, contrasting with sophisticated drapes.If the future seems critical, we dream of a better world.
Designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, the Kiko Kostadinov Women’s Autumn Winter 2022 collection takes a soft power approach to the feminine binary, as the saccharine sweetness of youth is brought into sharp relief against an undercurrent of dark glamour.
The illusion of fashion, the physicality of craft. The Lanvin Fall/Winter 2022 collection by Bruno Sialelli is a celebration of the paradox and contradiction of fashion, and of the contrasting themes that energized the work of Jeanne Lanvin.
This collection is designed for the young-spirited and daring, effortless yet ambitious real woman of today that finds her individuality curated in each piece. It compliments all body types through its sculpted silhouettes and sharp modern lines with a subdued vintage touch.
“Gisha” was the starting point for her exploratory Fall/Winter 2022 Collection. Misora deploys variations in her study with coats, dresses, pants, skirts, shorts & an overall, and revisits staples from her previous offerings: her discernible inside-out raw jacquard, logoed bodysuits and leggings, leather & paint works.
Nonlinear, the vision is one of serendipitous spirals and yet perfect succinctness—a reconciliation of time-honored codes of women’s ready-to-wear and the progressiveness luster of today.
To mark the existence of this autumn/winter 2022 collection, and since our shows from “the time before” still seem inappropriate, we decided to ask our friends’ children to pose for photos, taken by a very young photographer of their generation, Tess Petronio, herself the daughter of friends and collaborators of A.P.C.
RIANNA + NINA are excited to announce KOSMIMA, the new AW22 collection, presented in Paris. KOSMIMA, Greek for ‘jewelry,’ is a collection influenced by the renowned history of Greek craftsmanship.With themed motifs and spectacular embroidery performed by hand in India, this elegant series capturesthe immaculate beauty of the isles’ many wares.
This collection is me owning myself. Standing up for what and who I am and generating positivity from such negativity.
Piferi x Ludovic De Saint Sernin
“This season’s footwear — the second chapter of a collaboration with Italian vegan leather shoemaker Piferi — echoes the versatility at the collection’s core. Calf-cladding croc-effect boots and point-toe sandals with an exaggerated comma heel scream confident sensuality, while clodhopper boots are fit for stomping the night away”
For GOOMHEO’s fifth collection, FW22 ‘Infinite Glacier’, Goom challenged herself by steppingout of her comfort zone, using new materials juxtaposed with traditional couture techniques.Not only focusing on conventional menswear, but more centered on creating a new character,rather than defining or dressing into a specific gender.
Rochas
This season, from the fluttering, pleated hats to fine shoes that graze the ground, I sought out the Rochas woman – at once strong and poetic. By day, in stylised outerwear and a high-waisted wide pant; for evening, a sensuous chrysalis
silhouette. From the Rochas archives, I became enthralled by the energy of a winter black. A line undulating on a page transformed with texture: at turns matte and slick, deeply opaque or with transparency as though illuminated by a full moon.
Love Letter
Through the collection, the brand is looking to draw the line somewhere between being wild yet beautiful. Drawing inspiration from harsh and vibrant Japanese artists, with the words of classic French poets plastered over the clothes, hitting home these points of “DECADENTS”.
Pariah
This collection is set amongst the intermingling scents ofles escargots, tartarede boeuf,andle vin rouge, amid frenzy of the Frenchbrasserie. Being anenvironment of contrast, constant fluctuation, thebrasserieserves as thesetting for an interpretative exploration of the interplay between the mundaneand the radical; a collection of characters with a coherency based inincoherency, at a “breathless” moment in time.
This collection is inspired by that idea of community, and specifically by mycelium, by the reality of nature as a community that is far, far older than we are. Mycelium connects even the rooftop of the tallest skyscraper to the plants, to the grass, to the ground, to animals and to human beings.
Through the coming months we will of course talk you through all the trends for the season to come so you are more than ready.
Read more about the Autumn Winter 2022 collections here:.
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