London Collections Men: Day 4
By Jo Phillips
Sankuanz
Sankuanz’s bold collection was a joy to see and filled with colourful interpretations of classic styles. From the quintessential military coat,oversized jumpers labelled with slogans, and coats bursting with multicoloured prints, Sankuanz presented a collection which brought a flair of Asian influences seen on the streets of Tokyo to Victora House.
Craig Green:
Craig Green’s minimalist collection was definitely one to watch this AM. Filled with crisp white shirts, military knits with peekaboo holes, muddy green parkas, and the excursion of ultra layered looks in red which lit up the catwalk. With elements of utilitarianism and uniform, Green presented a sleek, consistent collection, woven into soft wool, billowing silk and neoprene.
E. Tautz
E. Tautz mastered the art of relaxed tailoring, while combining a strong collection of for the power dressed man. Presenting a variety of looks in shades of grey, from printed suit jackets and chunky knits, to the infamous return of the clogs in black leather.
John Smedley
John Smedley’s knitwear has been rooted in British history since 1784, and continues to produce innovative looks changing the landscape of knitwear today. At his autumn/winter 2015 presentation, Smedley showed maroon and mustard sweaters, styled with black slacks, and a variation of forrest green and striped shirts, perfect for the stylish man who doesn’t follow style. Smedley masters normality and fashion, showcasing staple jumpers for the everyday man.
Katie Eary
Colour was the name of the game for Katie Eary this season, with splashes of fuchsia and tangerine commanding attention throughout the collection. While designers often lead towards muted colours for autumn/winter, Eary does the opposite, presenting teal coats with fur trims, quilted jackets, prints of brains placed across jumpers, as well as trainers and rather bold make up. Loud, proud and extremely daring, Eary closed the last day of LCM with a bang.
Louis Leeman
Dutch shoe designer, Louis Leeman, decided to show a variety of designs for autumn/winter 2015, with styles ranging from tartan slip ons, patterned tassel loafers, maroon trainers, and a particularly jazzy glitter loafer. This collection presents a shoe for every occasion, and allows men of all styles to indulge in a Louis Leeman obsession.
Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey presented Burberry Prorsum’s latest AW15 menswear collection, and has once again produced a collection with Bailey flare all over it. From the expressive prints, manipulated across raincoats, and slim tailored silhouettes with cosy ponchos, there was a graphic feel and relaxed comfort about the entire collection. Highlights included shaved furs mixed with luxurious fabrics, and the structured leathers of shearling, and his arts and crafts inspired prints.
Tiger of Sweden
Tiger of Sweden incorpartated post punk influences and classic tailoring into their autumn/winter 2015 collection, leading an army of looks featuring quilted bombers in checks and leather, narrow suits, and tapered high waisted trousers. The colour palette ranged from navy, bottle green and camel, and presented an array of monochrome suits, knits, and classic outwear. Although subtle, the contrast was unique.
Nasir Mazhar
Nasir Mazhar closed LCM with a collection combining street wear, club wear and rode gear all into one. Tracksuits with heavy zip detailing, glittering fabrics on shirts and parka jackets, and paisley printed looks showcased British street wear at it’s best, and a new innovative approach on how to wear the staple hoodie and tracksuit.
Don’t forget to check out our current menswear issue of .Cent magazine here