London Fashion Week: Autumn Winter 2021
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
Bora Aksu
‘In this collection Bora Aksu draws on the power of isolation and its ability to push people to their limits. Using silhouettes and styles inspired by late 18th and early 19th century dress, Bora Aksu combines the masculine and feminine that defined the early-modern era in a play on Germain’s own attempts to defy the masculine norms of her time.‘
Edward Cructhley
AW21 is a paean to the cultural iconography of The North of England and the no-nonsense opulence of its matriarchs. The collection is named after the original title for the British soap Coronation Street, devised by Tony Warren in the 1960s as a ‘fascinating freemasonry, a volume of unwritten rules’
Matty Bovan
“‘Odyssey’ is ultimately about humanity’s constant survival against external forces, and a battle with reality. The characters are swept away in a cycle of extreme events, and whether this cycle ever ends or just continues, is unknown.”
Matty Bovan
Mark Fast
For AW21 Mark Fast embarks on an imaginary winter ocean dive, delving under shades of dark blues into beams of new light reflections.
Max Zara Sterck
Max Zara Sterck’s personal fascination with the body and movement are the main inspirations behind her work: creating sculptural pieces by following the interaction between the body and the fabric in movement.
Eudon Choi
The AW21 collection brings into focus the highly anticipated freedom we all are waiting for – when we can finally start to socialise and travel again.
Maison Bent
Maison Bent continues to celebrate it’s Caribbean heritage for AW21 by bringing forth Lockdown conversations between Bent and her Grandfather about life during 1960’s Black Britain.
SABIRAH
The collection takes the form of an experimental film by Esmé Moore, a visually arresting piece that
reflects the release of emotions that informed the collection. Esmé created an animation of stills
photography within a stirring soundscape.
N Palmer
The collection was created during designer Nicholas Palmer’s time in lockdown and features locally sourced vintage 70’s shirts and scarves turned into psychedelic patchwork.
Sonia Carrasco
This collection explores the contrast between mixed feelings, accelerated changes and is inspired by the attractiveness of nature and nostalgia, balance and imbalance, uncertainty, hope, challenge, doubt, stress, insecurity, self-responsibility.
Palmer//Harding
The collection is inspired by the emotions of falling in love. Starting from the first moment, there is a lump in your throat and a nervous energy races through your body.
Art School
The collection itself builds on the core values I have instilled in ART SCHOOL’s clothes from our first season. The use of the bias cut to make our clothes tolerant and easy to wear for all bodies and genders and my personal skillset in tailoring. – Eden
Carlota Barrera
The Fall Winter 2021 collection film titled ‘Do I owe you days?’ explores the uncanny, delving into the psychological experience of something strangely familiar, unsettling, yet with a certain sense of comfort.
Bianca Saunders
Bianca Saunders presents Superimposed, a collection for Autumn/Winter 21 that looks at positive and negative spaces, always pushing forwards the signature cuts and silhouettes of the brand.
Osman
The AW2021 collection zooms across three locations: metropolis London, the waterfalls of St Vincent in the West Indies, and the red mists above the deserts of Pakistan.
Liam Hodges
Capsule 001: Thin Ice is the brands first collection since lockdown. The world very nearly stopped turning. We should have taken stock of our position in the world and be looking forwards to a brighter future with
necessary change in all aspects of life. The formalities that we’re used to, makes normality dangerous. In a time of isolation, the past is perilous
Miles George Daniel
The AW21 collection took inspiration from Daniel’s own emotions and interactions with the materials. Rather than limiting himself to traditional design methods such as sketching and research, Daniel took a new approach, working off the emotion he felt with each fabric.
Mithridate
Using leading-edge technologies and machine learning AI to create computer generated artworks, all is revealed through a unique web experience, Automatiste.mithridate.uk immersing the viewer within a gamified Mithridate world, where no two experiences are the same.
PRONOUNCE
For FW21, PRONOUNCE take inspiration from a personal trip to Jingdezhen, Jiangxi, China, exploring traditional Chinese pottery. –
PRONOUNCE tell the narrative of porcelain.
JordanLuca
‘We don’t live in the past anymore and we don’t know the shape of the future that lies before us. This collection is not about loss and its not about hope. It is about now- Jordan and Luca
Tribal Eyes
For AW21 – The brand continues to embrace its cultural values, yet appeal to a person who is bold, confident and unrepentant about style, bringing together a community of people who are not afraid of colours, patterns, and diversity in eyewear fashion.
Hanacha Studio
The AW21 collection will consist of timeless pieces, wearable yet elegant with a hand-crafted embellishment. The colour palette is to die for, and the silhouettes oozes classic styles and trends.
Xander Zhou
This entire collection is the result of the free evolution and reorganisation of various elements that already existed within the core system.
Buffet Clothing
Buffet Clothing design high-quality apparel for those who seek pleasure in life. In a fast-paced world full of drama and chaos, the brand uses their craft to produce clothes that inspire people to stop for a moment and appreciate the smaller things in life.
Kristína Šipulová
Taking inspirations from people who are dedicated to craft techniques and to bring these fascinations into the modern world to enrich our everyday life is the main vision of the studio.
Petra Kovacs
For AW21, Petra Kovacs is presenting ‘Lobster Party’, inspired by the magical underwater world and the world of natural virgin beaches and inspired by the environmental problem associated with Sea world.
Per Götesson
For autumn/winter 21, Per Götesson explores the fragility of masculinity with a focused series of demi-couture pieces that cut together previously existing garments. Bombers take on new volume; Air Force linings become an elegant coat; jeans and army trousers play around the legs.
Natasha Zinko
For Autumn/Winter 2021, Natasha and Ivan’s collections are the finale of their ‘Sober’ trilogy. Whereas previous collections explored notions of spiritual
sobriety and of soberly confronting our fears, this season indicates a sobriety from society, and its lethal constrains on identity.
ROKER
AW21 from Roker was in collaboration with Edward Crutchley & Harris Reed this season on shoes.
Danshan
For Autumn Winter 2021 Danshan study the Danshan man as a sentient being. Danshan advocate compassion and kindness as that count for our survival within an increasingly polarised world.
Nicholas Daley
APUJAN
APUJAN’s previous joint collaborations are also interspersed in the film, along with the digitised pattern in the details on the clothes, such as dinosaur bones, planets and spacecraft.
Halpern
While this collection embodies an emergent appetite for dressing up, it was important to me to respect the conditions of the ongoing situation. For now, it felt appropriate to scale back this season’s presentation. It’s a small production with a big heart.
Michael Halpern
Published By
Inspired by an exploration of heritage and the discovery of parallels over generations, this season PUBLISHED BY founder Christoph Tsetinis uncovered stories of his Greek forefathers who worked as leather craftsmen, further inspiring his craft and singular vision.
Daniel W. Fletcher
Daniel w. Fletcher introduces womenswear for autumn/winter 2021. Though a part of the business that has been growing independently season-on-season, this is the first time that Fletcher has assembled a fully realised collection to sit solely under the womenswear umbrella.
Erdem
For Autumn Winter 2021, Erdem is at the ballet. We are in the wings, that liminal space between onstage and
offstage, observing dancers criss-crossing over the mental and physical threshold to perform, moving from
private to public and back again in a beat, a breath and the stretching or tensing of a limb.
Mynok
Emerging designer, Carmen Hidalgo takes her inspiration from the references of survival and new life in this renowned work of art. Following on from the brand’s Spring/Summer 21 collection and its themes of grief, Autumn/Winter’21 is referencing resistance, survival, and finding darkness in the light.
Edeline Lee
