London Fashion Week Men’s: Spring Summer 2020
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
A quick round-up of the looks and show at London men’s fashion week for Spring Summer 2020 season. Have a think about what you want to wear, and trends you want to feature in your future wardrobe, but should you need to know about what to wear for A/W19-20 trends do have a look here.
Modern Nature is the title for Art Schools’ SS20 collection, creating ‘impossible landscapes, build with care and patients’. This ideal is translated through the silhouette of the collection, soft yet deconstructed in metallic hues. artist Richard Porter to create hair sculptures and set design inspired by Derek Jarman garden. The collection came in metallic hues, with delicate tailoring pieces creating a more stripped back and clean collection. Also a live performance by the talented Anna Calvi.
For SS20 the idea of family at the heart is the inspiration for Priya Ahluwalias’ collection. Turning to nostalgia as the soul. The colour palette for the collection saw neutral tones of brown and beige clash with bright pops of primary colours and beautiful prints. Knitwear, tailoring from her grandparents are recut, redesigned and modernised. Collaborating with Elena Croce to complete the collection with gold jewellery pieces that are made from repurposed metals.
This was the fifth season for St James, which catwalk show talks places on Jermyn Street London. With an open-air catwalk allowing not only the press but the public to see the SS20 collection, which over 30 brands participated in. St James also runs off a ‘see now buy now’ format! The collection itself showed beautiful styling details from hats, glasses even down to the socks. Tailoring came in light neutral tones and pastel hues.
The MÜNN SS20 collection was a show stand out! The debut from Korean MÜNN is a direct collaboration between the Britsh Fashion Council and Seoul Fashion Week. Aiming to bring new and emerging talent to new platforms. It was really refreshing to see new designers work and creative outlook on the catwalk at LFW, every detail of the collection was a fresh experience. The collection itself came in an overall dark colour palette, contrasting with light sheer fabrics and injections on neon colours in the styling details of shoes and accessories.
The ss20 collection was titled, Maledetta Primavera. High pace models, music and design was the approach for this collection. With injections of metallic reflection, nightlife and rave culture seemed to be the inspiration. ‘Laser beamed basement of a nighttime rave’. This could be seen reflected in the materials and colour choices of the collection, and music that filled the catwalk space, the styling on the collection infused ready to wear looks with outlandish oversized metallic balls hovering over models heads.
For SS20 Band Of Outsiders took us to the pool. Creating a pool party vibe for the setting. In a traditional summer colour palette and lightweight fabrics in linen and cotton. The prints for the collection were designed by artist Amit Greenberg. The collection silhouettes were relaxed following the effortless ideal of summertime, all paired with caps, bags an overall lightweight knitted swearers and t-shirts making a collection perfect for British summer time.
Edward Crutchley’ SS20 collection is titled Dressy! In a nod to power dressing. With 80’s references made modern, as well a mid-18th century inspired prints from the textile designer Anna Maria Garthwaite. With the volume at the heart, this collection is as Crutchley says ‘Tradition and revolution.” Traditionally seen as feminine fabrics and colours could be seen on the catwalk, on both men and women, another nod to Crutchley’s fluid approach to fashion, as well as slouched tailoring, bows and brocades all coming together to create a dramatic collection.
The St-Henri Spring Summer 2020 collection is another filled with a light colour palette, in a lightweight, slouchy yet structured material. The collection seemed to create a natural effortless vibe, which was continued and reflected in the set design for the SS20 presentation at Ely’s Yard. With the styling of glasses, no shoes, beaded necklaces and oversized silhouettes this collection infused culture with Britsh Summertime. ‘St-Henri Creates a story built around the heart cave, a fictional community of odd, yet fascinating characters, blending countercultural sensibilities and spirituality into a modern utopian aesthetic, held together by an all-American backbone.’
At the heart of this collection is the artistry of ‘Made In China’. Ancient of Chinese copper coins, infused Eastern and Western aesthetics. Workmanship and high-quality products and materials are what the brand is known for and the SS20 collection aims to ‘marry advanced outdoor fabrics with modern fashion designing to equip urban males withall-weather outfits. This collection seemed to ooze every aspect of menswear fashion that is sort after and recognized as contemporary style, suits and sports luxe, bringing menswear back to a more traditional place.
You can always expect something unexpected when it comes to a John Lawerence Sullivan show, an edgy outcome is a must. For the SS20 season, JLS took tailoring to a darker place. The collection was inspired by the strength and endurance of boxer Arashi Yanagawa who shares the same name as the designer. The collection itself saw deconstructed tailoring silhouettes on both male and female models. Graphic t’s and ombre glitter shorts were paired with oversized styling details and chains, all coming together to create a tailored punk look.
For the SS20 collection, James Long takes a positive approach to a clash of cultures. Seeing hyper colour and monochrome in a variety of textures and designs. Knitwear, Bermuda shorts, graphic t’s just to name a few. Clashing cultures and stereotypes creating a rebellious collection that saw pop-art infused with knitwear, denim in different silhouettes and metallic tracksuits all fuses together, somehow seamlessly. This collection also sees the launch of an ongoing collaboration of ICEBERG ART DENIM.
For the SS20 collection, Qasimi creates a contrast collection, reflecting a sun-bleached colour palette inspired by his childhood in the United Arab Emirates. Creating a light a positive collection, reflecting against the dark times of political tension in the middle east. As well as a Utopia space for the SS20 show, a sense of escapism. The collections references to the military can be seen via trench coats, broad shoulder silhouettes and styling details of hats, vests and of course boots.
Liam Hodges SS20 collection titled Fifth Generation looks at self. Who we are and who be become via social media. Collaboration from artist Alfie Kungu helped produce the hand-painted pieces and graphic knitwear which included cardigans and oversized jumpers. Styling came as a nod to Cronenberg 199 sci-fi thriller, creating an individual character, this was done via destroying the models face with tape and string, and an overall clash of print and colour. Ellesse also joining Hodges for a second season to create multiple, breathable sportswear pieces and set design by Louis Gibson.
GQ China for seven years has been putting designers on the LFW catwalk. For ss20 designer Li Gong created a retro-futurism aesthetic. This has been the base of the 80N8 since he graduated from CSM. ‘8ON8’s signature boxy tailored silhouette with silk pyjamas, Gong uses menswear base to highlight the silky feminine touch’. The collection sees a light colour palette with injections of a pastel rainbow, creating a modern twist to menswear, feminine silhouettes like tool skirts and garments cuts all came together to make a fresh approach to the SS20 season.
For the SS20 season, Alexander McQueen is back in its home town, taking a more traditional McQueen approach and reflecting the menswear collection with the women, making the conversation and connection deeper. Keeping with this theme Burton looks back at references Lee himself. Of course, the most beautiful tailoring silhouettes where seen and the overall craftsmanship was breathtaking. Embroidery, hand paint jacquard and jewellery all added detail and a poetic aspect to this collection.
Drawing inspiration from Kaohsiung, Taiwan designer Yi-Ling creates a beautiful knitwear collection. Recycled fabrics and craft techniques help push the conscious boundary. Stating that the core focus of the collection is ‘style coexisting with sustainability.’ This collection shows off what the designer does best, starting a conversation about culture and experimentation with impeccable craftsmanship at the heart. The collection itself also boasts an air of sustainable fashion, noting that if buried in the soil it would take just five years for the garment to decompose.
Per Götesson took a forward approach to the SS20 season. Injecting elements of technology and technique, a perfect collection to truly show off the designers range of skill. 3D patterns, homemade and printed images used as graphics on the garments, draping but above all simplicity. Jeans and a T’shirt, t-shirt dresses and exposed features of zips and bottle caps all made a simple statement for the SS20, another designer sending the models down the catwalk barefoot.
Lou Dalton always creates a functional and wearable collection that is stylish and well-made all at the same time. For the SS20 collection Dalton looks at the great outdoors, and those who seek solace, solitude or wellbeing. Sea island knits from collaboration with John Smedley as well as reversible showerproof outerwear in collaboration with Gloverall and comes together to make a seamless collection.
For the SS20 season, Michikokshino takes inspiration from the evolution of her brand. ‘Despite exploring a new brand evolution, which has resulted in some calm and clean aesthetic, the very essence of Michiko Koshino means the collection remains contemporary.’ Using a mix of men and womenswear.
The SS20 season was the first stand-alone show since Fashion East. The collection explores the idea of characterization, dressing down for a more relaxed time, and the drama of costume. ‘There is a feeling of waiting in the wings – half in and half out of costume, dressed in part also for comfort.’ Jewellery details, silver chains and eyewear in collaboration with TD-Kent all added to the subtle elegance of the collection from designer Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt.
Belstaff prides themselves on creating an effortless wardrobe that covers every lifestyle aspect. This season sees a more sustainable approach. The SS2O collection is the second by Sean Lehnhardt-Moore who looks at the brands history personal journey as inspiration for this collection titled Travelogue. The collection featured bold utilitarian pieces, hand waxed leathers, denim and linen are just some of the materials used to make this rugged just polished collection.
For the SS20 season, C2H4 took muted tones and mixed them with metallic iridescent looks to create a utilitarian yet punk collection. The collection didn’t seem to Spring Summer as para’s and hoodies were layered, windbreakers and knitwear are staples for the collection. But then again the LA-based brand did the show in England and we all know what Britsh summer time is like. C2H4 also collaborated with Nike on the footwear.
Studio Alch SS20 collection titled Single Use is another approach to designer Alexandra Hackett incorporation of plastic into her design. The collection showcases slogans of reducing plastic as showcasing still beautiful sportswear design.’ Thank you for stopping single-use plastic.’ all in a colour palette of dark tones contrasted with neon hues. This collection also sees collaborations with Patta and Greatness to create harnesses, hydration vests and packable utility shorts.
Transported of the streets on Shoreditch and into a Hong Kong food court, Oliver Spencer created a beautiful collection for the SS20 season. The collection itself is a homage to Wong Kar-Wai’s In The Mood For Love. The mix of full formal and everyday casual was a refreshing take, stripes, print, check and plain drill all made a feature on the catwalk in a colour palette on natural, navy, teal and burnt orange flares.
The University of Westminster for the SS20 season showcased the MA Menswear collections, celebrating ten designers collection on a huge platform. Designers: San Kim, Hattie Crowther, Ted Lin, Tommy Wan, Morgane Krischer, Lola Van Praag, Daniel Rozsahegyi, Amelie Marie Gaydoul, James Reeves and Curtis Wu.
Collections featured inflatable garments (Kim), sculptural cuts and silhouettes (Krischer), Surf inspired outfits (Praag) and many more.
The skin and all that covers it, from what makes us out what protects us. Themes that the brilliant green always references. This season via ‘paper cut’ suiting in bright colours padding as protection but also reminiscent of the muscles that form on our frame. Watch out for rather amazing Adidas sneakers for his first collaboration with the brand.
For the SS20 season, Paria Farzaneh looked into the idea of attachment to clothing. Battling with the pressure to create newness’. Each look flowed perfectly into one another via the colour palette and beauty details. Bringing back the fun of streetwear, print, patchwork and tailoring. This collection also saw a collaboration with Converse.
The Feng Chen Wang SS20 collection was effortlessly beautiful and well thought out. From the set-design by Derek Hardie Martin to the woven details of the collection, always using her Chinese heritage as inspiration. Craft and weaving techniques were not only the inspiration but the main feature to the collection used to create sculptural pieces layered over other garments. As well as a combination of lanyinhuabu dyeing, limestone chalk and one-of-a-kind textiles.
Wan Hung
Kiko Kostadinov/
ETautz /
Nicolas Daley/ Charles Jeffery Loverboy/Xander Zhou/A-COLD-WALL/ Martine Rose /Fashion East/ Bianca Saunders
