London Fashion Week; Spring Summer 2025. After Dark
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025 was packed with creativity, showcasing established fashion houses alongside exciting new talents. The main runway shows filled the daytime with dazzling displays of the upcoming season’s trends (you can delve into the themes and highlights here). But the energy didn’t stop after dark. Packed with presentations, parties, and special events, the evenings offered a unique opportunity to experience fashion in a more intimate setting. London Fashion Week provided a platform for a diverse range of voices within the industry. This vibrant mix of established and emerging talent, alongside the variety of show formats, solidified London’s position as a global fashion powerhouse.
This collection dives deep into those iinstincts translation them into a compelling narrative on the catwalk. From textured faux alligator skin to delicate 3D printed jellyfish tentacles, this season’s collection showcases an array of intricate materials. “Crafsmanship at the core of our brand,”
Bond notes. Hand-painted details, experimental techniques such as smocking faux leather, and the delicate juxtaposi2on of contrasting materials offer a masterclass in texture play. Each piece is carefully constructed to act as a second skin, challenging the convenonal boundaries of fabric and
form.
In ‘Into The Gloaming’, Maclean weaves these elements into a dramatic fashion narrative, where the models, like the sisters in Rossetti ’s poem, undergo a stunning transformation. As the show progresses, the collection takes the audience on a visual journey from innocence to darkness. The garments, which initially feature soft pastel tones, evolve into more vibrant hues, and finally into deep, dramatic shades – mirroring the emotional arc of the sisters and their encounters with the goblins.
The SS25 collection, titled Cohesion, draws inspiration from Shrestha’s personal journey and the rich cultural heritage of Nepal. The collec8on is a tribute to the Nepalese people, the country’s exquisite handcrafted traditions, and the synergy between ancient practices and modern fashion. The documentary showcases the designer’s 20-year journey, from her upbringing in Nepal to her work empowering
underprivileged women through ethical fashion.
This collective show features seven of the most promising new talents in the industry: KARINA BOND x F3ROGbyrana, FÉE MUSE, LAM WING SUM, ONG ANG, PSY LAU, PIECES* x EXANTE and SAMUELLEON.
This showcase represents a celebration of innovation, creativity, and the next wave of upcoming talent. Flair Fashion, known for its commitment to fostering emerging talent, has curated this event to highlight the unique voices and perspectives of these designers. The collective show not only introduces their collections but also underscores Flair Fashion’s mission to support emerging designers at the forefront of innovation in design, sustainability and technology.
Fashion Finest
For SS25, Fashions Finest welcomed an exciting mixture of sustainable and ethical brands across a diverse and unique collection from designers hailing from the UK, the Middle East, Africa, and the Netherlands.
UK brands included South Wales-based label Ysbryd Tawel Couture, known for its mystical and darkly enchanting creations, which presented the latest collection, ‘Armoured Heart.’ North London label MODE London showcased impeccable formalwear intertwined with Asian culture influences. Bringing vibrancy to the catwalk, a host of exciting African designers joined Fashions Finest this season, including ABVee Fashion by Racheal Adeleke, which brought unique and lively creations inspired by African design. Also showing was Elizabeth Tobi, a luxury ethical fashion brand specializing in blending vibrant African prints with upcycled denim and hand-woven fabrics. Lagos-based label Budding Blue RTWBYFIOLAKEMI, known for its commitment to sustainability, zero-waste philosophy, and Nigerian heritage, presented the “Owu Ayo (Threads of Joy) Waste to Wealth Collection,” featuring vibrant and culturally rich designs celebrating Nigeria’s beloved garments and craftsmanship. Sustainable Nigerian label Nikieo Couture showcased for the first time at Fashions Finest, presenting an elegant collection that combined African roots with modern aesthetics.
New to Fashions Finest was Saudi Arabian brand Asbar.g, founded in 2019 by young designer Ghadah AlGhufaili at just 15 years old, who had quickly gained international recognition. This season, she showcased gowns blending the vintage charm of the 50s and 60s with modern sophistication. Also from the Middle East, designer Assil Skaiky, founder of Moustadaam, presented the “Malika” collection, which celebrated women’s empowerment through elegant, bespoke designs that blend sustainability with luxury fashion, inspired by her Lebanese-Palestinian heritage.
Finally, designer Nila ter Beek from the Netherlands, known for her sustainable, sculptural knitwear at Vanihila, showcased a free-spirited collection that explored femininity through tactile, body-inspired designs.
Beyond Horizons x Flair Fashion
Flair Fashion, the innovative platform redefining the fashion landscape, proudly announces its highly anticipated graduate collective show for Spring Summer 25. Presenting a captivating showcase of cutting-edge designs from seven graduate designers. As a pioneering platform designed to bridge the gap between online shopping and the next generation of fashion, Flair Fashion is at the forefront of integrating e-commerce with live showcasing. Designers include: Oriol Clavell, Flowery He, 3lato by Zlatina Zviskova, Sirimon, Leiland, Katie Ko and Mariusz.
Leblon London’s latest collection embraced a palette reminiscent of a sun-kissed horizon, featuring rich oranges, golden yellows, lilacs and ocean blues. Silhouettes were flowing and organic, evoking the natural beauty of Rio’s landscape. Lightweight soft silks, and sheer layers formed the basis of the collection, while intricate printed silk sequins added a touch of luxury. Standout pieces included a shimmering sunset-hued chiffon maxi dress and a beautiful tailored suit with a surprising open back in delicate sea blue.
The full collection showcased looks centred around the school theme, including prom-inspired evening wear, uniform-style day-to-day pieces, after-school attire, and loungewear, all inspired by the multifaceted British public school culture. The range of textiles included wool blazers with stand-up collars, shorts, black and white lounge sets, tartan trousers paired with razor-collar shirts, and, last but not least, black linen summer sets with NOM!NAL’s signature red stitching, evoking a sophisticated summer in London vibe.
A collection characterized by soft lines that are inspired by a rigorous life. POET-LAB depicts that society that always tries to be fashionable on every occasion of the day. The POET-LAB woman represents a status, she goes outside the fashionista’s schemes, she does not have a season and adapts to climate change, they are creations that adopt a No-Season by making a few garments to follow an eco-sustainable concept. The designer uses old dead stock where each piece is handmade and the different finishes are the characteristic of the brand. For the designer, Giuseppe Iaciofano, there are no schemes to follow, his recipe for going beyond standards is dialogue between opposites. His intellectual universe combines concept, poetry, structure and image.
The conceptual narrative for this collection began when my partner and I visited dungeness earlier this year. as we wandered through its deserted shores, we felt an energy unlike anything we had experienced before—a profound mix of completeness and emptiness, a sense of fullness and loneliness. the desolate landscape, with stranded boats and abandoned fishing equipment, evoked emotions I rarely feel. this feeling reminded me of the first time I met my partner, who, while seemingly complete, held an air of ambiguity and secrecy.
The event featured a stellar roster of designers, each presenting unique and visionary collections:
Manuel Tiscareno opened the show with architecturally inspired designs, blending structured silhouettes with soft, flowing fabrics. His couture collection elegantly fused timeless and modern elements, leaving the audience in awe.
John Naftali, founder of Panzai, followed with a collection that seamlessly combined sophistication and comfort. His designs, ranging high quality apparel that blends elegance
and comfort from classic essentials to trend-setting pieces, empowered personal style with a focus on quality and elegance Anastasiya Halaburda of Bonifique brought an adventurous flair to the runway, showcasing a sports and travel-inspired collection that was both stylish and functional, designed for the imodern, on-the-go woman.
The night concluded with a breathtaking bridal collection by renowned Mexican designer Jorge Contreras. His collection, titled “Jesus Christ JC”, was a heartfelt tribute to his father,
dazzling the audience with its intricate textures, sparkling details, and emotional depth.
Ones To Watch
For the Spring Summer 2025 season Ones To Watch showcased two separate catwalk shows. The first presented six designers: Acceptance Letter Studio, Hurricane B, XASHA Sasha Swedlund, OK Kino, Nobjsa Jellwery and Gyouree Kim.
XASHA – Sasha Swedlund
The second show also consisted on six designers: BYJULIAAH, Mushie Studio, PINDINGA, Tara Kari, BERTH and Chedar Jewellery.
Chedar Jewellery in collaboration with Mushie Studios and Berth
This season the Jimmy Cho academy presentated 14 designers collections in MA Cohort sustainability capsule show.
SHAANDAAR DESIGN STUDIO by Sabine Hussain
Drawing inspiration from the Haihe River in Tianjin, China and its surrounding folk culture, the “Endless River” collection explores the healing power of traditional arts in an industrialised world. The collection represents a cultural fusion, where international creativity intersects with classical Oriental elements, highlighting a harmonious blend of the East and West.
OMNISS’ philosophy of rule breakers and disruptors is seen through the lens of nature. Inspired by the defiant nature of bird species, the SS25 catwalk collection ‘ LOVESONG in FLIGHT’ showcases a narrative of love and breaking free, featuring unique techniques such as digital embroidery, and intricate draping to create stunning dresses that seamlessly transition into evening wear. Corset techniques add a touch of elegance, while signature blazer cuts and a playful blend of feminine and masculine elements, combined with vibrant flamingo pinks and crisp whites, create a visually striking collection. The pieces are thoughtfully crafted with Armenian influences and handcrafted elements, primarily produced in London.
Making a comeback this London Fashion Week SS25 season, is a groundbreaking platform committed to nurturing Chinese talents and introducing them to the global market. Collaborating with international platform & agency Fashion Scout, it will spotlight eight emerging Chinese talents: VINCENT LI, VICETA WANG, QIKE QILO, BLACKNINI, witHemera wardrobe, VITAL AO, YING OU and yuyuncollection. Standing at the forefront of East Asian fashion, these brands honour their heritage, pushing
boundaries and reshaping the contemporary design landscape through various disciplines including fashion, jewellery and footwear.
FJU Talents is an annual platform sponsored by the College of Fashion and Textiles in Taiwan aimed at enhancing the strength of our most talented alumni and boosting their
exposure on the global stage. Each year, four selected designers are supported by FJU Talents to show their collections at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week. While emerging designers have the opportunity to showcase their work, established alumni are recruited to return to the school to provide guidance and intensive training, cultivating and continually strengthening our community and connection with the industry.
Inspired by the legendary 80’s 90’s duo, Mill Vanilli and their aesthetic, renowned for being at the center of one of the
biggest musical scandals of all time, this collection pays homage to Rob Pilatus & Fab Morvan and their influential
impact in the world of music and fashion. Designed by Lenifro’s designer Helen López in collaboration with M illi anill’s surviving member, Fab Morvan. This collection is a true fusion of creativity & Milli Vanilli’s legacy.
Emphasizing volume, asymmetrical garments, studs and O course those big shoulder pads, true of their unique style.
The designs reinterpret the group’s iconic style through the unique lens of Lenifro’s aesthetic. This collection not only
captures the spirit of the original designs but also weaves in e powerful message of resilience, making this collection
both nostalgic and innovative.
Oxford Fashion Studio’s London Fashion Week shows featured a cultural crossroads of 13 designers from across Europe, North America, Africa, Asia and the Middle East.
Mantle 2020
Nina Doroushi is a London-based Iranian-Irish designer who provides alternative classicism for sensualists. Although currently a student on the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, the designer has established a solid identity in latex-wear and has expanded to more velvety tones in her most recent DiscoveryLAB debut, ‘The Fabric Rendition’ of her backboned pencilled silhouettes.
London Fashion Week SS25 was a showcase of bold innovation and artistic expression, where designers pushed the boundaries of fashion with imaginative collections that captivated the audience. The runway featured a striking array of shapes and silhouettes, from oversized volumes and sharp tailoring to intricate layering and bold, structured shoulders. Vibrant color palettes dominated, with deep reds, hot pinks, and black playing against playful prints and patterns. The collections highlighted a fusion of theatricality, nostalgia, and modern elegance, seamlessly blending intricate craftsmanship with sleek, contemporary design. As sustainability continues to shape the fashion industry, many designers embraced eco-conscious materials and ethical production, reinforcing fashion’s role in a responsible, forward-thinking future. London Fashion Week SS25 left a lasting impression, setting the stage for the next wave of global trends while celebrating creativity, diversity, and the art of storytelling through fashion.
The 18 Look Collection features both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and closes with sculptural pieces indicative of the brand’s DNA and dramatic silhouettes, headpieces, and detailing since the designers’ graduation from Central Saint Martin’s in 2023.
The collection is our interpretation of beauty, grace, humility and most importantly innocence among the human race. A key focus has been on the element ‘earth’ and the importance of being close to our roots while we develop our wings. We have drawn on characteristics of mankind as well as other dimensions that exist, to create a collection that is earthy, natural and ethereal at the same time.
Weiyin Chen – Couture Concert: La Belle Époque
This year’s collection was heavily influenced by iconic paintings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as classical music compositions. Each couture gown in the collection mirrored the themes of beauty, transformation, and creative expression characteristic of this artistic period. Pieces were inspired by works such as Van Gogh’s Starry Night and John Singer Sargent’s Madame X, with Chen interpreting each painting into a one-of-a-kind couture design. The gowns paid tribute to the art and the flourishing creativity during La Belle Époque.
Rocky Star Blush Éclat Spring Summer 25 collection celebrates the poetry of spring. This collection is a delicate dance of soft pastels–ivory, blush pink, and a touch of midnight black– designed for the woman who loves simplicity and grace, Blush Éclati is all about lightness and fluidity. Each piece features print-on-print florals, soft fabrics that drape beautifully, and frills that add a whimsical touch. Subtle embroidery enhances the elegance, inviting you to embrace the season with joy and a wardrobe that reflects the effortless beauty of spring.
The collection illustrates the spirit of the 80s with a modern hint, merging power dressing with the ethereal beauty of the New Romantics movement to create a neo-European aesthetic that is both beautiful and powerful.
Medusa Fashion House is reloaded for its
second comeback of the year with an extensive showcase of Indian artistry at the global stage. Under the dynamic leadership of MEDUSA’s founder, Sonal Vis the multi-designer runway soirée at St Johns Church, 18 Hyde Park Cres, Tyburnia, London W2 2QD, United Kingdom, will display a classic blend of the realm of high-end fashion with rich cultural tapestry under the theme of Fashion Week and the City.
Manish Tripathi Nitin Bal Chauhan Prakhar Rao Shuchi Bhutani Lipika Saurastri (Khadi India) Harvinder Kaur (Khadi India)
