Love a Fashionable First look A/W 25.
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
Fashion Week season is upon us, and brands from all corners of the globe are preparing to showcase their latest collections. The fashion weeks offer an exciting glimpse into the trends and styles that will define the upcoming seasons. From bold new designs to innovative takes on classic silhouettes, we’ll be seeing a diverse range of looks. Along with the main runway presentations, we’ve also included some pre-fall collections, giving you an early preview of what’s to come and how the fashion world is evolving.
As the brand continues to evolve, and with a genuine commitment to better addressing the needs of their male customers, CFCL is reclassifying its previously UNISEX items as “MEN” starting with the milestone FW25 collection.
This wardrobe is carefully designed to complement a masculine physique and emphasize practicality, offering comfort for modern business professionals who live life in their own unique way.






The inspiration comes from natural earth tones, in particular from Desert Sienna, skillfully used to dye the OJJ the iconic fabric of the brand. This craftsmanship, which fully respects traditional processes, gives the garment shades ranging from tarnished to rust, unique and authentic shades, making each piece unique in terms of aesthetics and tactile/material experience. The Dust-dyed Nylon Suede is also back in the collection in a series of variations with natural nuances.






Carefully moulded silhouettes, round and billowing volumes, airy fabrics and evocative patterns: the Rochas Pre-Fall 2025-2026 collection weaves a narrative through attires that echo defining moments in the life of /a Belle Hélène, the sophisticated woman personifying the strong, uncompromising femininity Rochas caters to. The collection infuses the every day with extraordinary pieces, enlivened by the movements and by the body of their wearer, whose personality turns clothes into fashion.






The MSGM Men’s FW25 collection invites us on a journey, “Follow the Rabbit” acts both as an invitation and a warning, guiding those curious enough to explore unknown paths. The rabbit, a recurring and mysterious symbol in the collection, represents more than just a motif-it marks the beginning of transformation. What starts in a playful, almost childlike manner slowly shifts into something darker and more complex. This evolution reflects the passage from innocence to a more mature, sometimes unsettling reality, where two worlds blend seamlessly.






Conveying this theme at the heart of the showroom was “The Tree of Writing,” a captivating art installation created in collaboration with the art studio Edinas Paper, Montblanc’s longtime partner. Crafted entirely from paper, the tree features book pages as leaves, with each page carrying an inspirational quote selected by Montblanc Artistic Director Marco Tomasetta. With its flourishing branches overlooking the showroom, “The Tree of Writing” symbolizes how writing traverses time and space to connect people, preserve memories and inspire generation after generation, just as it extends throughout Montblanc’s roots to inspire its collections today.






Bright Star
This season, PIERRE-LOUIS MASCIA introduces twenty new original prints, including a dozen for ready-to-wear. The motifs are mixed, painted, redrawn, composed and recomposed, and transformed in a subtle blend of analogue and digital techniques. Here, we encounter echoes of the melancholic portraits of Julia Margaret Cameron, the Pre-Raphaelite drawings of dandy artist Aubrey Beardsley, symbolizing the decadence of the fin de siècle, and melancholic fragments of Bright Star. This quest for the ephemeral is embodied in luxurious fabrics.






The collection channels the rebellious energy of the ’70s and ’90s, paired with the exacting craftsmanship of today. Each piece deconstructs the familiar and reassembles it with a sense of freedom, striking a balance between precision and play. Timeless garments are transformed into bold new silhouettes that challenge tradition.






GR10K presents AW25 as a reflection of its ethos: garments optimized to function in contemporary production infrastructures—i.e., garments stereotypically labelled as workwear as a safe-conduct commercial standard. The common concept of workwear, as framed by today’s retail landscape, is a simplifying norm applied to fashion’s coalescence.






The FW25 collection highlights the brand’s unique, signature style and captures the essence of the German Designer in all his glory. The FW25 menswear pieces are an ode to the genuine duality of man, from daywear that is as contemporary and classic, to eveningwear that is both refined, regal and wholly individual.






FW25 collection, on accessories, we co-creation with artist Lu Zheng on the wooden rounded-shaped conceptual bag and the creative team 998E on conceptual sunglasses. The show’s soundtrack is by artists Zheng Ke, 1334 and Jie Shi. Continuation explores the 3D rope element – Hand-knitted and wovenTailored wool – cashmere knitted Contemporary Mao Suits and tailored knitted suit sets. Natural stone buttons (such as White Jade, Gray Agate, Tiger Eye, Black Obsidian, Rock crystal Quartz, etc.) are inlaid into contemporary Mao Suits and tailoring suits.






The Santoni Fall/Winter 2025 Collection masterfully combines exceptional craftsmanship with contemporary design, placing a renewed emphasis on the brand’s accessory lines. The new bags embody the brand’s signature blend of effortless functionality and refined elegance. Expertly crafted to meet the fast-paced demands of modern life, each piece is ideally suited for both everyday use and travel. The collection’s thoughtful design showcases an acute attention to detail, the new travel line stands out as a highlight, tailored for the modern traveller.






Autumn-Winter 2025 collection, David Koma’s second foray into menswear, continues to define the multifaceted identity of the Koma Man. This evolving range is a deeply personal exploration, shaped by the designer’s dual role as both creator and consumer. The close-knit community surrounding the menswear line infuses the collection with a quiet harmony – ‘flecks’ of each collaborator’s attitudes and sensibilities become seamlessly woven into a refined and intimate offering.






An exercise in masculine dressing, the MM6 Maison Margiela way – straightforward, item-driven and eminentlynot narrative – using Miles Davis as a filter.Tailoring. Sensuality. Shimmer. Lavishness and soberness. A touch of mink, too. Faux mink, of course.A touch of lurex, as well. Worn-out, occasionally.






The FW25 collection is strongly inspired by a very simple concept that is also capable of imparting strong change: the “New Modern”, where by new we mean renewal of the company’s solid heritage, to give it new lifeblood. Models and fabrics from the company archive therefore find unprecedented space, for a timeless modern concept.






The invite, in the imagination, is at the languid Adriatic limit, between the industrialand the damp – sweaty techno – the ideal place for a romantic excess, extraordinary yet gratuitous.Sea, night, winter: a legendary threesome.






Pre-Fall 2025 traverses between the architectural precision of graphic lines and the bold embrace of hyper-femininity. Tailored silhouettes are juxtaposed with the fluidity of luxuriously soft fabrics. Glossy bonded satin is used for the structured angles and graphic lines. The aggressive edge of the leather is balanced by the shimmering delicacy of dense paillette fringe sequins, that appear as transparent burgundy discs.





Rock attitude merges with bohemian influences. His look shifts between the sharp precision of tailored pieces and the comfort of generous knits; minimalist raw denim meets the romance of artisanal embroideries.A tennis-striped flannel calls to French icons of the 70s while the exaggerated shoulders of a patinated leather overshirt speak to the silhouette of the following decade.





Ouest continues its exploration of masculinity and sensuality through a collection that plays with its obsessions: denim, leather, and underwear.Light-washed jeans blend with pieces in regenerated black leather and thick boucle wool.






“Hollywood is where you go to dream – where people go to build, and to rebuild. That’s the nature ofthe city of Los Angeles. This collection is a homage to Hollywood and to Los Angeles, a celebration of the city I call home. A collection filled with optimism, dreams and love.” -Mike Amiri






Désir is a continuation of Swoosh’s creative director’s approach to the future of the fashion industry: a cool and extravagant wardrobe, built exclusively by handcrafted from reused denim and leather scraps, setting up a virtuous circle of slow fashion and know-how without any adverse environmental benefits.





The collection introduces padded and insulated silhouettes, malleable Three Stripes branding, and Suibokuga-inspired artwork, alongside a special collaboration with NEIGHBORHOOD celebrating moto-sport culture.






Fall-Winter 2025, Wooyoungmi venerates elegance as a compass for a new way of seeing and being. Ch’ŏrhak is the Korean word for philosophy. Meaning “how to become wiser”, its reflections are founded in self-cultivation: being the best we can be for others by improving the way we carry ourselves. Applied to visual expression, it portrays appearance as a kind of courtesy: dressing as a form of self-discipline that promotes diplomacy, decency and dignity in ourselves and our surroundings.






Dominated by bold associations of black, white, and red – thecollection is both practical and imaginative. Designed with adynamic, sporty allure and a metallic finish, these piecesevoke a sense of time speeding up, bringing to life a rich urbanedge that seamlessly transitions from day to night.






“Everyday Life,” vowels’ Fall Winter 2025 presentation,reimagines luxury through the lens of daily ritual. Thecollection eschews avant-garde statements in favor ofenduring, versatile pieces that anchor a modernwardrobe.






“The world around me is always my inspiration. COLLECTION 03 is my way of industrialising nature. I consider shape and light similar to architecture and seek to understand how we engage and interact within our environments. When I launched STEL, I wanted to ensure a dialogue with the customer, aiming to refine our styles and offerings over time by intentionally creating pieces that are not only mindfully priced but also thoughtfully designed, adapting to our needs as we navigate the world. Presenting this third iteration at BIG HQ, a source of inspiration for me, and collaborating with Julia Sarr-Jamois, whom I admire and respect, feels incredible.” –Astrid Andersen






Contrast defines the collection, as counterintuitive elements inject surprising fluidity into concise tailoring. Inspired by the classic wardrobe introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in his Haute Couture or Rive Gauche collections and by the spirit of Robert Mapplethorpe, a menacing, seductive elegance informs both the silhouette as well as individual pieces.






The AW25 collection and runway show, titled “Comeback Culture,” will tell the story of an emotionally resilient journey, celebrating the power of transformation and renewal by bridging the past and future through the artefacts and personas of a new generation.






Baum und Pferdgarten’s Autumn Winter 2025 collection, “Heartbeats”, is a love letter to free-spirited individuality and the thrill of embracing what makes the heart skip a beat. Inspired by the contrasts between the serene charm of the British countryside and the expressive vibrancy of more retro and rustic times, the collection brings together cherished elements in a playful, ”no rules” philosophy.






Inspired by the notion of “friendly stalking” and the feeling of being trapped—whether within oneself or a domestic environment—The Shell reimagines historical elements such as 19th-century tapestry, elaborate curtains, and carpet prints. The collection fuses these traditional aesthetics with an underground, rave-like energy, evoking the eerie grandeur of a derelict, possibly haunted, castle.






In the realm of our FW25 collection, this wardrobe invites introspection while textures and colors—faded and bright, shiny and matte, hairy and smooth—interact, painting a vivid portrait of the wonder we once held in childhood—seeing objects simply for their being and beauty.





This Fall Winter 2025 collection represents a pivotal moment to our work. What remains at the core is our methodology to create clothing that is engineered to transform how women feel and therefore how they look.





Rotate’s Autumn Winter 2025 collection is a celebration of the Rotate fictional muse, where classic evening glamour meets contemporary culture. Inspired by the opulence found in old fashion editorials, the collection is an immersive experience of luxurious outerwear, elegant dresses, elevatedseparates, and bold accessories, capturing the essence of the Rotate’s.






The Pre-Fall 2025 collection thrives on contrasts, weaving together baby-doll silhouettes and porcelain-inspired florals with utilitarian aged leathers and charismatic, menswear-inspired silhouettes. It’s a dialogue between the refined and the rebellious, proper and raw.






The collection showcased reclaimed and vintage fabrics, transformed through innovative upcycling into striking garments like deconstructed suits and ethereal silk pieces. Each design embodied the spirit of cunty, sensual, strong warriors, underlined with upward spirals, natural fibers, and deconstructed forms. Elements like the keffiyeh conveyed solidarity, while the silhouettes captured
the essence of the revolutionary of today–bold, wearable, and unapologetically defiant.





Laura Gerte’s signature interplay of strength and fragility sharpens into a commanding statement.Upcycled materials- vintage shirts, silk scaryes, Wool, and nylon- are transformed into sihouettes thatoscilate between the provocative and the protective In hues of black, red, and grey, the collection unfoldswilth deliberate contrasts: wisted suiting, lingerie-inspired details, and fluid silk shapes that blur the linesbetween strength and vulnerability, intimacy and armor.






“This collection is deeply personal – an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style. I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters — which I hope you’ll enjoy to discover.”— Peter Copping, Artistic Director of Lanvin






A collection featuring experimental electronic rock bands from 1970s-1980s Germany and France, such as Faust, Heldon, Dieter Moebius, and Conrad Schnitzler. Although these bands are not widely known, they are incredibly significant in discussing the fusion of rock and electronic music.This style is designed based on an imagined futuristic tribe, blending the decadent yet intellectual punk-to-new wave scene of 1970s and 1980s Germany.We also incorporated the artwork of Josep Baqué, a Barcelona-born Spanish artist known for his unique style of depicting fantastical creatures that blend human and animal characteristics.






Doublet
Bend a plastic sheet and there will be a thin white line.Thee destruction creates tiny cracks where it’s bent,.Such manufacturing “defects” are unforgivable evil.A bent sheet of plastic is a “villain” who must be eradicated.
The villain gave a hint for a new kind of fabric.It made it possible co trap “functions” in the holes created by the defects for instance, trapping insect repellents in them can save people from malaria. The villain gave us a new material.






The convergence of traditional and contemporary artisanal techniques are reflected in hand-painted organza, fibrous raffia tightly embroidered as a textile, and ostrich feathers embroidered into swishy volumes by Lemarié. The palette is high contrast and photographic in ecru and black with accents of red, orange, cactus green and soft banana yellow, now a JACQUEMUS signature.






A collaging, moulding, reshapingas legs are pushed through the arms of an old,beaten-up, belted motorcycle jacket.A cable- knit, jumper with the s sleeve emptiedis twisted around the body exposing the hập:The memory of elbows shifted.






The approach to the Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection was to reinvent the core of the brand’s identity, created over the past 30 years. It’s inception lies in a reconsideration of “tailoring,” a concept perceived as slow and at odds within the mainstream, a trend of speedy expression “tailoring” in its broader sense is beyond so-called suit tailoring, even if it gives off a sort of dusty smell. Developed from this is clothing in forms evoking such figurative contradictions.Two blousons in different sizes used frequently throughout the collection employ inverted patterns with upside-down docking to paradoxically highlight what the act of tailoring is in essence; and the tops, with the patterns of pants converted into sleeves, have been transformed through a classic technique of deconstructivism.






With the FallWinter 2025 collection, creative director Maria Koch suggests breaking down forms and silhouettesas a counterexample, as sartorial exaggeration. Closely related to past collections, SUSPICIOUS MINDS continues to establish 032c Readytowear as an anti-Zeitgeist uniform that defies seasonal moods. Classic and timeless garments receive an unexpected twist through outlandish and occult references.






If you enjoyed reading Love A Fashionable First Look, then why not read : Welcome 2025 New Fashion
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