Milan Fashion Week AW15

By Jo Phillips


There was a lot of buzz around this Gucci collection, since Frida Giannini made her surprise exit, and Alessandro Michele came to the rescue. In one word, this collection could be described as hopeful. For a label that was heading downhill, Michele managed to inject some youthful life into it. The 70’s inspired collection featured sheer fabrics, pleated knee length dresses and skirts, floral frocks and printed masculine suits.

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Alberta Ferreti

The dawn of a new day. This was the point of reference for this divine Alberta Ferreti collection. That and Italian Renaissance, which translated beautifully into the fabrics of the clothes; think gilded brocades, rich embroidered velvet, and delicate lace. This collection felt like it was for a modern day Red Riding Hood frolicking through the woods at dawn.

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Only Jeremy Scott can induce this much chaotic and carefree fun into Milan’s Fashion Week shows. The social-media genius presented a collection that paid tribute to Loony Tunes characters, Teddy Bears, and urban graffiti. Somehow the mishmash worked and the strongest looks were the primary-colored outfits, trademark Moschino black-and-white looks, and spray-painted dresses which will most definitely appear in many fashion editorials.

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Philipp Plien 

A roller coaster spinning around during a fashion show with Azealia Banks rapping during the opening? That’s one way to get people talking. Surely Philipp Plien has become an expert in that area, continuously out-staging himself. Besides the theatrics, the collection presented edgy street wear, lots of fur, and body-con dresses in materials such as snakeskin.

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Miuiccia Prada does what she does best for this season’s AW15 collection; finding something beautiful, and making it subvert in the most skillful of ways. The show consisted of countless shades of pastels; think candy colors like pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue. However, like anything Miuccia touches, there was irony in the clothes and they were anything but simply sweet. The notion she was getting at was the different between what is natural and what is artificial. The bejeweled accents on the clothes were a stunning addition to the garments.

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Max Mara

There has always been an intimate relationship between Max Mara and Marilyn Monroe. Not only have Max Mara coats appeared in the film “My Week with Marilyn”, but the blonde icon has often played a muse for the label, and did so again this season. For this particular collection, the photos taken in 1962 of Monroe in the beach inspired the ultra luxe pieces like the stripped sweaters, camel coats, and barely-there slip dresses.

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Only a legend like Karl Lagerfeld can create such a perfect balance between being tough and womanly at the same time. For this collection, Lagerfeld played with texture, proportions, while keeping colors to a minimal. The collection featured a lot of supple leather, fur, and stunning coats. No doubt these bags will be next season’s sellout.

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Who would have thought that beige could look so deliciously good. Of course it will, when paired with deep wine-maroon, teal blue, and raspberry red. The collection also featured white, blush pink, and metallics. Geometric shapes were played with in the skirts, tops, and coats. There is no doubt about it, this is one of Tod’s best collections to date.

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This Versace collection might be Donatella’s most contemporary one to date. For the silhouettes, the designer looked at the past, but focused on the digital era we live in today for everything else. Think dresses in jolts of primary and florescent colors, patent leather thigh-high boots, and sparkly embroidery of emojies, symbols, and hashtags.

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Bottega Veneta

Thomas Maier is one of the most fascinating designers to watch; one season it’s feminine ballet-inspired looks, the next it’s structured menswear tailored for women. For this season’s Bottega Veneta collection, it’s the latter. Even with a shirt and pants combo, Maier managed to create looks that are seductive, even whimsical, and a little psychedelic with all those polka dots in different colors. However, the collection evolved, and towards the ending the designer presented graphic striped looks. He closed with a series of youthful yet ultra luxurious dresses that beautifully incorporated lace and embellishment.

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Twisted femininity. That was the concept for this season’s contemporary Marni collection by Consuelo Castiglioni. The models almost looked like modern-day warriors with their long vests, thick leather belts, and snakeskin cross bags. It’s refreshing to see a collection where the models can walk straight out onto the streets and still look extraordinarily stunning in their functional attires.

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Dolce & Gabanna

In one of their most Instagrammed, tweeted, and heartwarming shows to date, Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna celebrated the mother figure. The duo created romantic looks with sentimental messages beautifully embroidered on them like “I love you Mamma”, stunning white pieces with child-like drawings on theme, and their classic floral looks in lace. In a move that must have been a first in fashion, the designers sent out mothers down the runway carryings their babies wearing mini D&G looks.

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 Salvatore Ferragamo 

It’s all in the details with this Salvatore Ferragamo collection. Made for the woman who wants to stand out in a subtle way, the exquisite, sometimes graphic, garments were complemented with unique buttons, pleats, and gorgeous knotted leather belts.

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Giorgio Armani

It’s fifty shades of blue for this Giorgio Armani collection. There is no other designer who treats the color quite the way Armani does, presenting it in various different shades, textures, and silhouettes. Every tone from baby blue, to deep navy, to vivid cobalt was presented. The designer introduced pink in subtle yet strong ways in the blurry patterns and textured jackets. Peter pan colors complimented almost each look. _AG18291 _AG18067 _AG17921 _AG17891 _AG17763