Moodboard: Utility

Utility and military overlap this season, here’s our selection for S/S15 inspiration. By Anna Morris & Rebecca McNelly-Tilford

Fashion On The Ration at the Imperial War museum opened on the 5th March and runs until 31st August so theres plenty of time to catch this major new exhibition which explores how fashion survived and flourished during wartime. The exhibition marks the 70th anniversary of the end of the Second World War in 1945, working around themes including; military dress, utility clothing, functional fashion, make do and mend, many of the themes which have been seen on this season’s catwalks. A recurring motif for Ralph Lauren this S/S15 show interpreted the theme of utility in luxe camel and khaki, multi-pocket, belted jackets, as well as oversize watches.  Greg Lauren follows on the trend with a deconstructed, casual take on military, with loose knits and cargo trousers. Rodarte brought a lightheartedness to utility with a reworked cargo jacket, adding embellishment, netting and a varsity jacket ribbing. Newgen sponsored LFW show 1205 showed a serious utilitarian collection, with minimal, masculine silhouettes. Whereas Rochas played with uniform motifs on an otherwise feminine collection. Herschel rucksacks this season come in a myriad of military shades and for AW15 launch a luxury leather range making this utility item utterly desirable. And Parka London interpret military into a wearable bomber jacket. If thats not enough, for further inspiration on uniform as fashion, Amy Buchart’s Nautical Chic is a must for any coffee table this month, charting a history of nautical dress and it’s influence on the world of fashionable dress, from 18th century to Alexander McQueen this is the definitive guide to nautical.

Clockwise from top:
Circle – Nautical Chic by Amber Buchart published by Thames and Hudson
Watch – Ralph Lauren Sporting Collection RL67 Chronometer – 45mm
Circle – Ralph Lauren RTW S/S15 
Illustration – Fashion on the Ration – ©IWM ART PST 2832 Join the ATS (1941) © IWM Abram Games Poster
Rucksack – Herschel www.herschelsupply.com
Catwalk image left – 1205 S/S15 
Catwalk image right – Greg Lauren S/S15 
Rucksack – Herschel A/W15 collection www.herschelsupply.com
Catwalk image – Taken from Nautical Chic by Amber Buchart – Gold Braiding features in Alexander McQueen’s ‘Dante’ collection autumn/winter 1996 © Anthea Simms
Small circle – Britta Jacket by Wåven www.waven.co.uk
Large circle – Rodarte S/S15
Bomber jacket – Jacob jacket by Parka London http://www.parkalondon.com
Images from Fashion on the Ration at The Imperial War Museum – ©IWM D77 Blackout accessories for sale, Selfridges London, (1940) © IWM Ministry of Information Official Photograph and ©IWM EPH 3931 Jacqmar scarf, ‘Salvage Your Rubber’ (1940-1945) © IWM Accessory
Boots – Ice Cutter boots by Red Wing www.redwingheritage.eu
Belt – Rochas RTW S/S15
Shoe left – Rochas RTW s/S15
Shoe right – Ralph Lauren S/S15 RTW