New Year, New Fashion
By Catarina Figueiredo Soares
Christmas has passed, and it is time to prepare and look forward to the New Year celebrations and the possibilities it will bring. The New Year offers a season of excitement, reflecting on the past while placing greater focus on what lies ahead. From final collections to wrap up the year to fresh garments ready to enter the new season. Discover what to carry into the year ahead in New Year, New Fashion.
Image on left hand side courtesy of BALMAIN
Parisian style has always captivated Olivier Rousteing. For this season, Rousteing and the BALMAIN team sought to capture the city’s modern fashion, blending two distinct heritages into one elegant, sophisticated style. This PreFall 25 collection reflects the essence of that blend.
The influence of French military, aristocracy, and couture history is seen in Brandenburg jackets, grand coats, and lace and feather creations, alongside prints referencing classical statues and chandeliers. The rebellious side of Parisian style is reflected in gavroches, varsity jackets, and black leather and denim. Unexpected pairings include golden embroidery on denim, military embellishments on black crêpe, and reimagined footwear, such as updated soccer cleats and biker boots. Leopard print patterns, a tribute to Monsieur Balmain’s legacy, also feature prominently.
Accessories embody Parisian nonchalance, merging heritage with a fresh outlook. The Anthem luxury bags, inspired by mid-century designs, showcase oversized golden buckles, with a new envelope pouch added for PreFall 25. This bold buckle motif extends to Anthem footwear, from sandals to high boots. The Sync collection incorporates golden chains fastened with chic lockets, a nod to Pierre Balmain’s favourite couture detail. These chains adorn leather bags, loafers, sandals, and heels, each branded with a gilded PB logo.
Grains de Verre unveils ‘La Révélation’, a jewellery collection that transforms the concept of duality into striking, wearable art. Inspired by the dynamic contrast of opposites, the collection pairs the delicate beauty of a rose with the sharpness of its thorns, using a black-and-white colour palette to highlight this tension. Central to ‘La Révélation’ are bold spikes that define the collection’s unique aesthetic. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted, blending angular shapes with smooth finishes and refined details.
The signature piece, a sterling silver ring, features sharp spikes softened by a cluster of hand-set zirconia stones, balancing boldness with elegance. This fusion of polished metal and sparkling stones embodies the collection’s theme of contrasts, where strength and beauty coexist. ‘La Révélation’ explores the power of contrast, symbolising raw emotion through spikes while revealing beauty within this tension.
To celebrate the launch of GUESS’s Winter Ski Capsule collection and the second edition of the GUESS Winter Project, the brand kicked off the season in style at prestigious winter destinations across the European Alps. Building on last year’s success, GUESS brought its alpine-inspired collections to luxury ski resorts, showcasing its winter peony motif.
The Winter Ski Capsule was debuted at Glacier 3000, set at 3,000 meters among the Alps’ most famous peaks. The fashion show, the first ever at such a high-altitude location, featured over 20 models in high-performance skiwear, accessories, and FW faux fur pieces, all infused with GUESS glamour. As a key partner of Glacier 3000, GUESS also presented branded outdoor furniture and exclusive photo opportunities. The collection combines functionality with style, offering fashion-forward apparel, outerwear, footwear, and accessories.
Lanvin announces a new collaboration with AS Monaco Basketball S.A. (Roca Team), one of the most prestigious basketball teams globally. As the official off-court fashion partner, Lanvin celebrates the elegance of athleticism and team spirit, reinforcing the maison’s long-standing ties to the world of sport – dating back to the 1920s, when Jeanne Lanvin introduced Lanvin Sports – and to the French Riviera, a place of passion for both the founder and the brand.
To celebrate the partnership, Roca Team players, including Matthew Strazel, Mike James, and Elie Okobo, wear classic Lanvin pieces in a series of striking black-and-white portraits. The official wardrobe includes the timeless DDB1 sneakers and signature suits, which the AS Monaco Basket players will wear throughout the upcoming seasons. Renowned for its competitive spirit and success in top-tier French and international championships, AS Monaco Basket blends athletic excellence with a strong commitment to style and achievement.
The holidays are upon us, and before long, the calendar will turn to a brand new year. MELLER is all about celebrating individuality – no drastic changes, no resolutions forgotten by February. Whether preparing gifts or winding down 2024, it’s the ideal time to treat oneself.
Step into 2025 with something as timeless as personal style: a fresh pair of sunglasses. For now, keep it simple – take a stroll in the winter sun, showcase the look at festive gatherings, or retreat from holiday bustle behind those favourite frames.
For the AW24 season, Johnstons of Elgin embrace café culture through elevated wardrobe essentials, contrasting the bold urban landscape with the soft sophistication of iconic fibres. This transitional edit features key pieces, including the timeless Balmacaan and the highly coveted superfine jumpers, available in both merino and cashmere blends – perfect for all.
In the ‘Time for Togetherness’ campaign, Johnstons of Elgin draw on nature’s colour palette during this reflective season – from icy blues to timeless greys and earthy oatmeals. Cashmere Donegals make a return, complemented by classic cable-knit designs and luxurious loungewear. Heavier weights and chunkier yarns ensure warmth, while forever coats, including the limited-edition Balmacaan, bring an extra layer of sophistication to any look. This is the season for celebration and sharing joy.
A football shirt is more than just a football shirt when it becomes a work of art. In collaboration with Umbro UK, OOF is releasing two artist-designed, limited-edition shirts that will look just as striking on the football pitch as they would in a gilded frame next to the Mona Lisa. This marks the second collaboration between OOF and Umbro, featuring two stunning, psychedelic designs by Hank Willis Thomas and Rachel Maclean.
Rachel Maclean is a Scottish artist known for unsettling pop and internet-inspired works. Her collaboration features a distorted smiley face emoji, warped into a neon pink and yellow nightmare. Hank Willis Thomas, a leading American artist, critiques oppression and racism while advocating for liberation. His shirt design, created with the Wide Awakes collective, features a hypnotic eye in black and white stripes, reflecting the group’s fight for cultural change and self-emancipation. Each design is limited to just 360 pieces. Whether worn on the field to score a hat-trick or framed for display, these shirts are not only football shirts, but wearable art.
Yohji Yamamoto Inc. has launched an exclusive pop-up boutique at 54 Conduit Street in London’s Mayfair, open until January 9th, 2025. Just steps from the brand’s flagship store, the pop-up debuted with an event celebrating the LIMI feu line, featuring curated archive pieces by Limi Yamamoto.
The pop-up also presents the Ground Y collection, known for its genderless aesthetic. Highlighted collections include the Ground Y AW24-25 collection, marking the brand’s 10th anniversary with a focus on craftsmanship, and the Ground Y FUJIKO F. FUJIO 90th Anniversary Collection, inspired by iconic manga characters like “Doraemon” and “Perman.” For the first time in London, Ground Y brings a broader range of styles, previously available exclusively at the Paris Louvre store, adding a fresh dimension to the space.
Introducing the hand-painted silk scarves and pocket squares by fine artist Lidija Seferović. With a background in portraiture, figure drawing, and sculpture, Lidija graduated in fashion from London, gaining experience with Alexander McQueen, Phillip Treacy, and Ralph & Russo.
Her work is inspired by her upbringing in Dubrovnik and travels across South and Central America, focusing on composition, technique, and precision in drawing. Using oil, aquarelle, and pencil, Lidija creates vibrant art on sand-washed silk canvas, available in both large and small formats. Each piece is hand-printed in her London studio, taking around 2-3 weeks to complete. The Paradiso and Oceanus collections are influenced by Lidija’s travels through Cuba and the ocean.
The British Fashion Council (BFC) is pleased to announce the winners of The Fashion Awards 2024 presented by Pandora (TFA). Organised by the BFC, TFA is a major fundraiser for the BFC Foundation, celebrating fashion’s role at the intersection of culture and entertainment, highlighting creative talent and reflecting on the year’s fashion stories. Co-hosted by British broadcaster Maya Jama and musical artist Kojey Radical, the evening honoured 16 awards. TFA nominees and winners are selected by an international panel of industry experts.
Designer of the Year Award recognises a British or international designer whose innovative collections have made a notable impact on the industry, defining the landscape of global fashion. Winner: Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson and Loewe, Presented by: Jamie Dornan. Model of the Year Award recognises the global impact of a model who, over the last 12 months, has dominated the industry with an influence that transcends the catwalk. Winner: Alex Consani, Presented by: Ashley Graham and Nava Mau. British Menswear Designer Award recognises a leading British menswear designer who has consistently made a global impact with their innovative and creative designs, shaping the burgeoning international menswear landscape. Winner:Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner, Presented by: Ian Wright. British Womenswear Designer Award recognises a leading British womenswear designer who has consistently made a global impact with their innovative and creative designs, shaping the burgeoning international womenswear landscape. Winner: Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha, Presented by: Kelly Rutherford and Nicola Coughlan. The Pandora Leader of Change Award celebrates a person who leads with innovation to create positive change globally, consistently challenging the status quo. Their work is empowering, progressive, and forward-thinking, using their platform to shift perceptions and drive authentic representation. Winner: Issa Rae, Presented by: Yvonne Orji. Cultural Innovator Award celebrates a leading innovator and imagemaker in the entertainment industry who has created viral fashion moments with a profound impact on the fashion industry and wider culture. Winner: ASAP Rocky, Presented by: Michele Lamy.
Outstanding Achievement Award celebrates the creative contribution of an individual to the fashion industry, who throughout their illustrious career has constantly shaped and reshaped the fashion world through their innovation and creativity. Winner: Tom Ford, Presented by: Anna Wintour. Special Recognition Award honours outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. Winner: Nan Goldin and GUCCI, Presented by: Chioma Nnadi. Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator recognises the very best innovators and creatives in fashion, celebrating invaluable contributions that have changed the entire fashion landscape. Winner: Tyler Mitchell, Presented by: Anok Yai and Mona Tougaard. Trailblazer Award celebrates the very best innovators and creatives in fashion, whose work in the past year has significantly shaped the industry. Winner: Remo Ruffini, Presented by: Maria Sharapova. British Accessories Designer recognises the very best innovators and creatives in fashion, celebrating invaluable contributions that have changed the entire fashion landscape. Winner: Stephen Jones, Presented by: Ambika Mod. BFC Foundation Designer Award recognises a BFC Foundation initiative designer who has had a major impact on global fashion over the past year. Winner: Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena for Chopova Lowena, Presented by: Joe Jonas and Olivia Dean.
New Establishment Womenswear Award recognises a womenswear designer who has created a new movement in British fashion and had a sustained impact on the industry globally. Winner: Marco Capaldo for 16Arlington, Presented by: Simone Ashley. Special Recognition Award honours outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. Winner: Dame Margaret Barbour, Presented by: Alexa Chung. Special Recognition Award honours outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. Winner: Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, Presented by: AJ Odudu, Edward Enninful and Jourdan Dunn. New Establishment Menswear Award recognises a menswear designer who has created a new movement in British fashion and had a sustained impact on the industry globally. Winner: Priya Ahluwalia for Ahluwalia, Presented by: Tems and Wretch 32.
Eight of the world’s most promising design talents have been selected as finalists for the 2025 International Woolmark Prize, the fashion industry’s most prestigious award. Chosen from hundreds of applicants, these designers will compete to shape the future of fashion with a focus on innovation and sustainability. The 2025 finalists are ACT N°1 from Italy, Diotima from the USA, Duran Lantink from the Netherlands, Ester Manas from Belgium, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi from France, LUAR from the USA, Meryll Rogge from Belgium, and Standing Ground from the UK/Ireland.
“For more than 60 years, the program has been supporting design talent on behalf of wool industry. The prize represents Woolmark’s continued social commitment, a sharing of resources, enduring support of local artisans and mission to lead the industry on a journey to nature positive. These designers are key players in this transformation, and we’re excited to see how their collections unfold. I would personally like to congratulate these finalists and thank the Advisory Council for their expert work in selecting the final eight.”
John Roberts, Woolmark Managing Director
Images courtesy of BALMAIN, Grains de Verre, GUESS, Lanvin, MELLER, Johnstons of Elgin, UMBRO, Yohji Yamamoto Inc., Lidija Seferović, British Fashion Council, Woolmark
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