The Golden Elixir
By Jo Phillips
The rounded head of the flacon is followed by the neck ribbed in golden rings finishing with a soft oval body, inside the elixir notes of Pear, Melon, Magnolia, Peach, Mandarin Orange and Bergamo, dropping into a middle of Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Tuberose, Freesia, Rose, Orchid, Plum and Violet where it finally settles in Musk, Vanilla, Blackberry and Cedar. An icon, a scent, opulent, golden that shimmers on skin like sunbeams. J’adore by Dior when it came out in 1999 presented a new conception of Dior feminity, and now in 2022 again it breaks the rules of the norm, in fact if we really care about our planet then this move up is vital. Find out more in The Golden Elixir Here
That ever-renowned bottle shape came from two dress designs, the first Monsieur Dior’s 1949 cyclone dress and its golden neckline John Galliano’s Maasai-style gold chokers from fall 1997. Galliano was the first (at that time) of a handful of Brits that took over couture houses in France because they were causing a stir in London with the ripples of their work, spreading globally.
One of the most respected perfumers in the world Calice Becker, a French master perfumer was the creator behind the original scent but is also behind many great creations from niche brands to even celebrity fragrances. This one, a fruity floral attained legendary status faster than any other fragrance created over the past ten years. For many a woman, this scent sums up an era, huge emotions, and loyalty that few perfumes can ever attain.
In our ever-changing world, this perfume has birthed many facets but the latest flacon to the family answered a definitely important factor within the industry and comes to the market with very few others basically using technology to restart our conversation on scent and our planet.
Up until now, a key ingredient used in perfumes is alcohol (alongside water and other fillers). Ethanol is usually what you will see written on the ingredients list. It’s there to ‘hold’ the delicate natural and synthetic oils used in fragrance. Unfit to eat/drink/swallow it is relatively harmless on the skin but not free of harm, to us or our planet.
Our bodies consider Ethanol to be poisonous so people who believe they are allergic to perfume are actually usually allergic to the alcohol in it.
Alcohol is also rather drying on the skin, as the alcohol within the scent evaporates, along with it goes our own natural body oils, drying our skin.
For the same reasons, it can lead to damage such as skin irritations. Some find wearing perfume gives them a headache, which most likely will come from concentrates of alcohol in the mixture
Lastly as far as our skin goes, wearing alcohol on your skin is not great if you are out in the sun, worn on freshly washed skin going for a walk in the sun will cause burning.
Contrary to what we have been taught for so long, the lasting benefits of alcohol within a scent are a bit of a misnomer. Natural and alcohol-free perfumes are, of course, an emulsion of organic oils, synthetic notes and water, so without alcohol, the evaporation rate is lower hence the scent will last longer on the skin.
Let’s move on to our planet and how removing nasties from our scents makes another difference. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids and therefore released with every spray perfume from your bottle. These tiny molecules can cause detrimental effects on the environment, from ground-level ozone and to contributing to acid rain. Both of which have devastating consequences on our global ecosystems.
Manufacturing traditional perfumes and synthetic perfumes use vast amounts of fossil fuels and as we know any use of fossil fuels is a direct catalyst to polluting our planet. Additionally, the discharge of accidental waste can lead to the surrounding environments, and by doing so cause a multitude of negative effects on the habitat of animals and the local ecosystems that surround these factories.
Fear not should you wish to add more to your green activities than just recycling your rubbish then Dior can help out in these stakes via their latest incarnation of J’Adore, an innovative water-based scent.
The science behind this is a type of nano-emulsion that was initially created for skincare from a Japanese lab. The floral oils and water are blended at an extremely high-pressured state. This technology eliminates the need for chemicals such as alcohol to be used to keep the scent length and it also means it doesn’t sit on the skin ‘doing damage’ Welcome to the kinder, greener, game-changing world of J’Dore Parfum D’eau EDP.
Dior in-house perfumer Francois Demachy had wanted to revolutionise fragrance and as J’Adore was the house classic, it seemed only right this was the fragrance to use. This version of the fragrance is mixed with water and oil that has a milky feel as it lands on the skin. A high water content means it fits far more naturally with our skin and this revolutionary process is via japan a Dior innovation creating a long-lasting scent, with a lot less damage.
As the perfume is now a new mix it was also slightly revisited by Demachy. Without the top middle and base of perfumes that ‘hang’ in alcohol this scent has a far more linear approach and it’s the addition of the divine essence of Neroli that brings a new facet to this much-loved elixir.
More opulent, more skin-inviting, and more immediate are the fresh florals. A light, white brightness; the golden sunlight pure on a clear cloudless day.
Chinese Magnolia meets Jasmine, Rose and Honeysuckle all share space with the fresh-honeyed-green Neroli a softness yet bright fresh note that balances the sweetness of the other nuanced heady notes, with the tiniest facet of a sea breeze. The coming together brings the lightest of touches, one that can help but meld with our skin. The sillage, like a golden evening dress that trails…
The Neroli steamed distilled with Dior’s partner using no solvents yet separates the orange blossom water from the essential oil that is vital to the perfume.
The bottle is as white as the fairest skin that sits against the signature gold necklace and clear lid of the flacon. Still as iconic as before yet with a touch of modernity befitting this newness.
In 1999 when the original scent was invented one perfume writer put his feelings about the scent into these words
“It makes me think of a setting sun hitting a gold chain — gold has no scent, but if it did, it would smell like J’Adore.”
J’Adore Parfum D’Eau, golden, like the brightest of the sun’s rays except these scented rays do no harm and just smell divine.
To find out more about J’ADORE PARFUM D’EAU please visit here
If you enjoyed reading The Golden Elixir then why not read Check Your Vitals Here
.Cent magazine, London Be Inspired; Get Involved