London Men’s 2 SS20
By Jo Phillips
Left-hand Image HLA x AEX
Bulgarian-born designer, Kiko Kostadinov’s SS20 collection paid homage to British equestrian uniforms, whilst still giving the designs a twist. Fabric layered in jockey colours featured in varying forms throughout, from a silken jacket and short ensemble to a knee-length tunic and Lycra bottoms. Geometric and gingham patterned suits graced the runway as did structured jackets with pocket details. His unique take on outerwear was competed with equally bright Asics and Camper boots as well as dreadlocked wigs and structured jockey-style hats, to add a different dimension to his collection.
Central St Martin’s graduate, Wan Hung’s SS20 collection followed the theme of metamorphosis, inspired by the Green Snake Chinese folk legend about snakes transforming into humans. Among the designs were transparent tops and jackets – representative of shedding skin, monochromatic tops and shorts and satin suits. Throughout the colours were minimalist with black and white and a pop of colour on selected pieces. To complement the looks, the models wore dewy makeup with a bold red lip.
Stefan Cooke’s first stand-alone show was inspired by backstage theatre and costume which was evident throughout the SS20 collection. Head-to-toe looks included reworked floral tops, blouses and hybrid jersey-trousers, various styles of lattice-effect argyle sweaters and long structured jackets. The whimsy of the wardrobe department was combined with couture craft to give wardrobe staples a new twist – jackets and shirts with corset detailing and barely-there knitted jumpers. Each look was carefully calculated and was worn with fabric headbands and laced-up dress shoes.
Garments presented in Studio ALCH’s SS20 collection explored the idea of reducing plastic consumption through innovative design methods to increase functionality. The colour palette reflects the strong connection between the brand and sportswear, with designs featuring black, white, neon yellow and grey. The pieces shown were cleverly designed, with jackets having feature pockets with packable carrier bags inside that can be removed and used, to reduce plastic waste. The fabrics used varied from technical nylons, a stable of Studio ALCH to heat-fused polyethene denim and silk tops with line-drawings of floating bags. Each outfit was paired with Nike socks and trainers.
In Qasimi’s SS20 collection monochrome blacks, whites and nudes ruled the show with the pastel plum and olive green added in to really pop. The colour palette was clean and simple, giving this streetwear a refined edge. The pieces were inspired by military and travel, which is evident with the use of rivets and zips accented on the clothing. The collection was minimalistic in styling, with chunky boots, trainers and caps with scarves used.
Lou Dalton’s SS20 collection lent much of its inspiration from the great outdoors, probably most heavily influenced by Lou’s childhood memories of growing up on the rolling hills of Shropshire. In the rich colour palette were earthy browns, creams, orange and camel which complemented the versatile, mix-and-match pieces well. Lou teamed up with Gloverall to create reversible showerproof outerwear and with John Smedley to create fine gauge sea island knits sweaters. Her collection incorporated every item needed throughout the year, from polo shirts to rugby tops, woollen bucket hats and gingham checked shorts.
1 X 1 Studio are drawing inspiration from Kaohsiung, Taiwan, this Spring/Summer collection binds together the bucolic, industrial, and structural scenes of the designer’s hometown. Using sweet corn yarns, paper yarn, and recycled bottle fabrics, while experimenting with the thickness and textures of these materials, the collection sees 3D knits that challenge most logistical and visual expectations. Using Khaki, baby blue, orange and green colours. Styled very simply with untidy hair, mid-shin-length socks and sandals.
Ahluwalia made her London Fashion Week Men’s debut with her SS20 collection inspired by nostalgia and family memories. Growing up in London at the height of the UK garage scene, it is unsurprising to see psychedelic imagery and bright colours from her childhood memories present in her pieces. Her signature patchwork upcycling of deadstock and vintage clothes continued in this collection, as did the brand’s sustainable ethos. The colour palette was made up primarily by pastels, browns and white, the colours were complimentary and designs were intricate. Geometric prints, check and denim featured throughout her pieces, in new, reimagined ways. Completing the theme of family, gold jewellery pieces were worn, created in collaboration with jeweller Elena Croce, made from repurposed metals. The outfits were simply styled with bucket hats, natural hair and trainers provided by Adidas, customised by Ahluwalia Studio.
Nicholas Daley’s SS20 collection brought his dual heritage (Scottish-Jamaican) together with music and workwear on the runway of LFWM. His show opened with bandleader of the British jazz band, Sons of Kemet, Shabaka Hutchings with a saxophone in hand, dressed in orange and brown cargo pants and a matching utility vest over an orange mesh tank. His bandmates followed, instruments too, all in clothing from the collection. The pieces showcased ranged from knitted satchels to striped trousers and checked shirts. There was a range of utilitarian details in collection with tones and shapes, vertical stripes and tie-dyed garments. The colours of each outfit lingered around one central colour and incorporated various textures and shades to create well-rounded, thoughtful clothes. The designs were paired with white trainers with shell details on the aglets, shell and bead necklaces and sunglasses.
Paria Farzaneh’s collection is inspired by freedom, that explores if the pleasure we find in the media is deceiving. Old school televisions were piled up in the middle of the runway, appearing like some abstract art exhibition. As the first models emerged from backstage, the fuzzy screens came into focus, projecting not a live stream of the runway, but of the audience, many of whom were documenting the experience themselves. Paria Farzaneh’s collection of breezy suits, patterned paisley fabrics, working pastels, brights and softly draped fabrics into the collection. Models were styled with similar brown bob wigs and had extravagant mechanical makeup, enhancing the theme of technology and media.
Chalayan’s SS20 show took place in an outdoor setting and consisted of light drapes, stripes and colour blocking. As each model carried a little quaint beatbox that sporadically let out sounds of grunts and shoe squeaks or abstract rhythm. A few jackets and pants were in crisp linen and cottons featuring panels at the idea of revealing and concealing. Styled with slicked-back hair and a mix of mustard-yellow and black trainers.
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Xander Zhou’s SS20 collection was inspired by men from different cultures around the world. Looking at men who perform ceremonies or certain rites have a common element of a skirt-like garment. The skirt then became a symbolic quester of the collection. Bringing an element of gender-fluid dressing in a stylish way by pairing with graphic tees and sweatshirts. Certain pieces having small prints of dragons or polka dots. With the addition of traditional Japanese sandals and wrap dresses with medallion detailing gave it a monistic aesthetic. The makeup stayed very natural and neutral paired with different shoes from trainers, boots and even barefoot.
