Milan 1 SS20
By Jo Phillips
Gucci
With their special two-part fashion show, the very 70s inspired collection debut quantities of vibrant greens, reds, light blues and neon pinks with sheer paneling and structured suits. The focus of the collection was on the workwear uniform but with a twist, as shown in the bust-bearing, black long-sleeve paired with straight-leg trousers and bright red socks. Leather, lace and tulle were the preferred accessorising materials used throughout the line.
Based around the sunset which included the warm, scenic colour palette of both the clothes and the runways background, this collection had an oversized A-line silhouette with a firmer shoulder whilst getting progressively looser in the bottom. The line featured a lot of tulles, latticework and suedes for their jumpsuits, suits, trench coats and dresses. All the models were styled with sheer socks and heels.
Celebrated for their party and cocktail evening wear, this collection differentiates the brand by focusing more on everyday workwear style. The colour palette ranges from sunset orange and yellow hues to browns and lime greens through their efflorescent pattern. The line supplies its use of satins and silks to create pajama-styled blazers, suits, and trousers. The silhouette often accentuates the waist though follows into a looseness around the arms and legs, as shown in the asymmetrical and flowy floral dresses.
A tale of two eras, 70s merged with 50s and held domination within this season’s collection. Throughout their subdued but perceptible dresses, suits, trousers and skirts, the amalgam of dark neutral colours with splashes of orange and emerald green confirmed the collections versatility. The 50s influence can be noticed in the waist-accentuated dresses alongside the sequin bonnets. Where by the 70s inspiration provides its use of more loosely fitted pieces through their chiffon skirts accompanied with leather totes. With the blending of brunette brogues with a mini skirt, or the tangerine button-down coat with toe-bearing sandals, supplies an eye-catching completion to Prada’s vision on decennial variety.
Commencing Milan SS20 was the notable jungle printed dress worn by no other than Jennifer Lopez in its new skin bearing alteration, 20 years after she wore the original dress. The dress was an iconic staple of Donatella Versace’s early 2000s creations, which ultimately influenced the introduction of Google Images due to the quantitive amounts of people hunting for the piece through the earlier days of an undeveloped Google. Donatella continued with the similar tropical print throughout the collection particularly on her sequin frocks and straightened suits. The silhouettes were tight and outspoken, filled with variations of flamboyant hues of limes, fuchsias and oranges whilst complied with a predominance of blacks. The Versace lines never seem leave the eyes to be unimpressed, even two decades later; the brand continues to reign its legacy of an exemplary status.
Theres a spirit throughout Etro’s line and it happens to be free. Amidst the liberated culottes or tapestry printed dresses, nothing more than Veronica Etro’s bohemian themed collection radiates that of an au courant hippie couture. With features of loosely shaped bottoms and torso-protective belts, brings an elegance of culture and tradition through the looks. Seemingly ones vision couldn’t leave the neck area, either with the comfortably-suited necklaces or prolonged necklines attached to the dresses. Alongside the soft materials of cotton and chiffon, the palette, mostly consistent of mint greens, beiges and whites whilst converged with the darker tones of navies, burgundies and blacks. Conveying the miscellany of bohemianism, therefore staying committed to the its main concept of non-conformism.
With an emphasised look of straw decorating the bottom of dresses and blazers, this collection featured minimalistic and shapeless silhouettes with pops of print in green and blue. The structured long blazers and oversized coats were adorned with white cage detailing, setting it apart from the other monochromatic black or cream workwear inspired pieces.
The Marni show largely focused on sustainability, with guests sat on recompressed cardboard benches to watch the organic cotton and recuperated leather dresses and coats. The collection was full of lively pink, greens, yellows and blues with floral and crochet patterns demonstrated through various dresses. The silhouettes were loose, flowy and oversized with a constant theme of one-/off-the-shoulder floral gowns. All the models were styled with brightly coloured flip flops matching the main colour of their dress or suit combination.
Titled “Underwater Lovers”, this collection featured pastel-coloured, sequinned swimwear bottoms styled with oversized jumpers, long dresses, and suits. The collection also featured Looney Toons prints on selective pieces layered with a simple long-sleeve. Pairs of shorts and loose trousers were complimented by plenty of sheer patterned tops. The end of the show featured solid, black dresses and black sequin shirts with black jeans that had pops of pastel pink. The models were styled with chunky reflective tennis shoes and peep-toes boots.
With dedication to the celebrated Spanish artist Picasso, Moschino featured his most famous paintings in their dresses, suits and swimsuit-like bottoms. Each piece in the collection called attention to one of Picasso’s paintings which were hand-drawn on to the pieces. The silhouettes were very structured and tight including the dresses that resembled musical instruments and actual painting canvas. The sleeves of the dresses were very oversized and structured into different shapes.
The “Earth” collection delivers a nature-influenced palette of browns, greys and blues in flowy organza, silk, tulle and georgette materials. The standout and main pieces of the collection were double-breasted suits with fitted silhouettes and loose silk trousers. The looks were often styled with large beaded and long circular abstract necklaces on top of jackets, dresses and blazers.
With an emphasis on gender-neutral styles, this brand’s silhouettes were oversized, baggy and slouchy. The dresses, trouser-suit, jackets and tops were all earthy shades of green, brown and light blues with slight pops of lilacs and pale pinks. The crotchet, lace and patchwork gave the pieces a fascinating twist.
