London Fashion Week AW22
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
Now as the world opens up most of the international catwalk season shows are back in person. London hosted many physical shows but many were still online. Young talent as ever stood out but established names also came back to show time refreshed and ready. Where NYC was a bit safe London played loud and proud. Here is a small round-up just to give a brief overview of key trends; things we will be wearing come Autumn and winter 2022
Zhang captures the delicate balance between romance, independence and self-preservation, encouraging self confidence and body positivity to empower.
Intrigued by the creative elements of the mind, Syl displayed an Autumn Winter 22 collection that is infused with pockets of surrealism. Inspired by the concept of dreams and fantasy, this season emulates reflection within oneself.
The collection calls upon the brand’s signature shapewear which is layered beneath puffer and ski-style jackets, designed to be dressed up or undressed. Diamantes laden POSTER GIRL’S second-skin minidresses, here in micro proportions, with crystallised heart-shaped cut-outs dotted along the cleavage.
For AW22 Bora Aksu transports us to the 14th Century, evoking the zeitgeist of renaissance Europe through the life of writer, poet and historian Christine de Pizan. Through his signature blend of past and present, masculine and feminine, tailoring and tulle Aksu takes inspiration once more from one of history’s overlooked heroines.
For Autumn/Winter 22 Nicholas Daley places the guitar front and centre, exploring the instrument’s otherworldly appeal through a collection deeply rooted in the energy, aesthetic and attitude of black rock, punk and funk.
For me, this collection is the idea of America, a fever dream. Growing up, my access to pop culture was heavily influenced by America, with TV shows set in high chools, American baseball, pep rallies and cheerleaders, which always felt so exciting, yet so far away.
“For most of history, Anonymous was a woman”.There were hundreds of women who could not sign their real names, so they were forced to do it under the pseudonym Anonymousin all their books.
“…the queerness of Gothic is such that its main function is to demonstrate the relationship between the marginal and the mainstream.’’
— Queering the Gothic
The title of this collection, Hudson River School comes from the Mid-19th Century art movement that began in the Hudson River Valley, New York. Part of a larger American Art Tradition that explores themes of Discovery, Exploration and Settlement the movement was embodied by a group of painters who depicted the regions landscapes in realistic, detailed, and sometimes idealised portrayals of their surroundings.
This show represents Jack Irving’s come back- an entire no holes barred fusion of the past, present and the future.
The collection is divided into two parts, beginning inside the stately home before heading outdoors. Daley interrogates a society that demanded different outfits for specific activities and times of the day, a rigid language of clothing that’s still present in today’s patriarchal dressing. By questioning these codes, we can be free of them.
For AW22 Mark Fast targets the energetic souls that find their spirits aflame through the experimental nightlife lights. This season embodies striking colours and shapes that are illuminated through couture dresses, large puffers and a mélange of experimental textures.
Named TIGERLILY after a unique variety of lily, the collection encapsulates the delicate beauty of a flower (lily) and the fierceness and grace of the animal (tiger). With classic shapes and intricate detailing, every item is designed keeping the modern woman, who likes to look and feel beautiful effortlessly in mind.
Identifies the concept of the bourgeois attitude and gesture. As a characteristic of the middleclass that embodies their desire to rise in social status and progressive ideology in 19th century Europe, Bourgeois bring the upper-class’s culture and aesthetic eyes to lower social strata.
AW22 explores the deep connection its creative director, Priya Ahluwalia, has to both Bollywood and Nollywood, influenced by the heady imagery and dramatic plots of traditional Indian and Nigerian storytelling, taking from Ahluwalia’s cross-continental heritage.
As always, tailoring remains at the heart of the brand. There are more suits than in any other collection, and Karamolegkou plays with their form, evolving ideas around familiar and classic shapes.
The collection is based on Portobello and Camden market in the late 80s and 90s. Our mum’s best friend when we were younger was very central to the Portobello social scene then and the collection is somewhat based around her.
Fall-Winter 2022, Michael Halpern asks the question, “What if it was all a dream?” it isn’t to escape the reality of our surreal collective experience, but to accentuate the fact that it happened.
Daniel Fletcher has long looked to his own heritage for inspiration, infusing his own experiences with current affairs and the temperature of the world in which he creates. For autumn/winter 2022, the personal touches have never been more personal.
This season, LABRUM returns home to Sierra Leone and the city of Freetown to work with local craftspeople. Adjusting and readjusting to the quotidian West African lifestyle as the garments develop and the project comes to life. Fabrics developed by these artisans punctuate the show in brilliant oranges, ocean greens and vibrant yellows.
An authentic expression of Creative Director, Jingjing Fan’s vision: ‘I am always inspired by what is around me, this collection was drawn from summer vacations spent in my favourite beach towns. Imagining the sound of the waves crashing, sand seeping through my toes, the beautiful sunlight, clear blue skies and all the summer fruit you can imagine.
Dreams, because the cowgirl at the centre of Autumn’s fantasy rides a quixotic line between all-night parties and days mucking out the stables; twixt country fields and city subways, masculine suiting and feminine fills.
The collection embraces the archetypes of England with equal adoration: the upper class, the working class, and the sporty. From the ladies of London’s stately ballrooms to the party girls of the city’s dancefloors, occasion-wear traverses silhouettes from the sculptural silk taffeta volumes of haute couture to the skimpy hemlines of little club dresses.
Motifs from a theatre costume archive have been applied to a wardrobe of smart and modern menswear staples for the autumn/winter 2022 collection from Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt. Historical referencing and costume details have been updated with attention to textiles. Trompe l’œil is approached in a modern way through denim and knitwear, with mock neck fronts playing a starring role.
TheAW22 Collection mirrors the vibrant atmosphere of women everywhere stepping out of their restricted lifestyles, their smiles, their passion, and desire for life.
This season, RAY CHU included bold silhouettes, and introduced more subtle color palette with intricate designs exuding strong statements: Chill, Sage Green; Warm Ivory; Glossy Noir are three key colors, illustrating more of a relaxed, laidback but remaining a desire for climactic feelings through figurative visual expressions of personal desires.
This season marks the first time this highly anticipated annual event has appeared on the official schedule. Guests have been able to immerse themselves in all aspects of LCF’s world leading postgraduate programme. The beautifully curated exhibition and showroom has bought together Menswear, Womenswear, Artefact and Footwear with Costume Design for Performance, Fashion Photography, Fashion Curation, Strategic Fashion Marketing and many more to showcase the breadth and calibre of talent at London College of Fashion.
AW22 sees the designer take inspiration from British photographer Shirley Baker’s 1961-1978 work “Dog Show”, candidly capturing dog shows in working class areas of Greater Manchester. The works playfully capture the oddness of owners, with hair as coiffed and styled as their pets, at the most uniquely British of competitions – the dog show.
HELEN KIRKUM presents ‘HISTORY IN REMAKING’ a short film celebrating
their Made to Order sneaker service. HELEN KIRKUM’s Made to Order offers
season-less classic silhouettes constructed of post consumer waste
collected from recycling centre TRAID.
London Fashion Week, 18th February 2022 – The Argentine Embassy and the Ambassador, Javier Esteban Figueroa opened the door of the Official Residence to host two brands Aynié and La Rando for an evening of tradition and culture, immersed in the brands’ interpretation of the Argentine spirit.
The collection is the sequel of APUJAN’s homage to the sci-fi world, of The Wizard of OZ and Alice in Wonderland, to the fantasy stories and the many literary allusions from the previous collection.
Apu Jan is well known for using literary allusions, reinterpreted the codes of a modern fairy tale and created though the collection a storytelling about APUJAN’s fantasy imaginary: another story about dreams, about community information, and about the overhead world.
This season continues to play on subversive undertones with provocations
in texture and colour. A nod to Sexual Selection within the animal world, where males change their postures, colours and behaviour to compete and attract females. Discerning neutral silk tulle pieces progress into conspicuous reds, blues and yellows.
The simple nomadic way of life, the grasslands that live in it, an Bud the monotonous nature are the main factors that determine the nomads’ thinking, such as world outlook and cosmology.
With a boundless approach towards self-expression, ‘Artisan Liberation’ is redefining individuality and self-acceptance. Using que cards from the powerhouse decade of the 1970’s, the collection sees a parade of prints that seamlessly sing to the same tune and adorn HA’s staple looks.
A long, inky leather coat, fastened with a low-slung buckle, and cocooning the silhouette with a funnel neck, sets the fierce, attitude-inflected sensibility for Supriya Lele’s A/W 2022 collection.
Inspired by the 1940s occidental evening wear, AHS Hotel Cortes and Art Deco architecture, our new collection is a bold take on Hollywoods’ most glamorous period.
Cult fashion house Sports Banger and one of Britain’s most iconic brands Lucozade have collaborated to launch ‘NRG’ – a bespoke range of T-shirts and tracksuits.
FEBEN’s AW22 collection – sees the designer take a broodier tack. Her second presentation on the London Fashion Week schedule presents an inward-looking contemplation of self-understanding and growing into one’s own identity; of the pursuit of light amid darkness – both personally and professionally – and the balmy qualities of love.
The collection explores this mood of high jinks on the brink of change. Daywear and eveningwear, womenswear and menswear, formal and casual clothing, are juxtaposed and interwoven. This is a tense moment that will become a fulcrum point in history.
“The primary focus of this collection are the many hands that touch our clothing throughout the making process, through the integration of artisanal and hand-crafted elements, in the form of weaving, knitting, printing, patchworking and embroidery. The life of each garment delicately passes through the hands of our intricate supply chain, and for that we feel immense gratitude to our makers, our tools and our team that surrounds us.” – Bethany Williams
An upbeat, if not slightly offbeat, colour palette is accentuated with bold graphics. Print highlights include a series of vivid brush stroke floral explorations, boldly painted by hand.
Kaushik Velendra’s Autumn Winter 2022 Menswear collection continues to draw inspiration from all walks of life. All ethnicities, all genders – this collection is created to celebrate all the special moments in life. It features strong tailoring, clean lines and new colours.
Inspired by the 1930’s, The Golden Age of Glamour for women’s fashion, the collection celebrates the opulence and splendour depicted on the Hollywood movie screens at the time.“Designing this collection has brought us so much joy over the last few months and sharing it with everyone today has been so special! We can’t wait to see our #humansofrixo wearing it come September.” Orlagh McClosk
This collection – a body of work which was embarked upon by both of 16Arlington’s beloved founders, seen through to completion by only one – is a tribute to the peerless style and lasting legacy of Federica “Kikka” Cavenati.
After last season’s joyful re-entry into society with a collection of all the colours of the rainbow spectrum,EDELINE LEE decided to return to her roots for Autumn Winter 2022. The designer is celebrated for her deft work with colour, but this season focusses the eye purely on her work with cut and shape with looks in full monochromatic Blacks and flashes of Ivory and Bronze. The designer states: “This season represents both a palate (and a palette) cleanse!”
The Autumn/Winter 2022 women’s collection asserts ultra-independence, combining femininity with a sense of “gentle woman farmer”. Founder and designer Sophie Mechaly liberates the modern day “suffragettes” by offering a sustainable and functional wardrobe, as modest and luxurious as it is casual.
Oidheadh Chlainne Lir
Two sons and two daughters
A dark lament
Crushed Taffeta wings,
an exploration of outerwear and what lies beneath
Blood line and Quilted blankets
bitter sequins, blue velvet
For FW22 at London Fashion Week, oqLiq transports the viewers to a futuristic and imaginative world. Taking the essence of Taoism, which holds harmony and unity as its core values, and embedding it throughout the collection with a subtle East Asian aesthetic to create considered pieces where each element is purposeful and adds to the multifunctional nature of the garment.
For AW22, Yuhan Wang is challenging the idea of perfection and instead looks to shine a light on the dangers that can come with the incessant need to keep up appearances and always look flawless.
For Autumn/Winter 2022 Paul Costelloe delivers a triumph of poetic structure for this eye-opening interpretation of a Golden Age in world history. From the lavish gold of the Renaissance period, to Tudor styles in reds, blues and rich van Dyck browns, this collection conveys all the romance of courtly desire.
Coming To America
Sania Daniel, Designer & Founder of The House of Nubian, and Saville Row designer Kwame Koranteng. Each will showcase their Haute Couture Coming to America-inspired collections that celebrate the iconic movie’s expression of African style and culture.
The collection is an extension of this message, and as every one of his creations, it looks at his cultural roots where, for example, his characteristic rich colour palette, is informed by his Ghanaian heritage.
Ozwald gives a spin to the traditional Savile Row suit, creating a RTW collection that stays close to his tailoring origins by being made to order and, as a result, avoiding unnecessary waste.
The Fall Winter 2022 collection is inspired by Après-ski, a term that became popular in the Alps during the ski advertising boom of the 1950s.
“’Texture’ and ‘touch’ were keywords we considered when constructing the Fall 2022 Collection. We explored the world of contrasts. You’ll see sculptural forms in circle skirts and funnel neck sportswear.
Delving into couture sensibilities, the collection acts as an exploration of intricate fabrications and elevated shapes. Structured volumes create a fashion armour, engulfing the figure in beauty and colour.
Affinity Eleven’ is a development and reflection on ideas of Self Preservation. Colin Horgan places ideas of archive at the forefront of the collection. Layering existing shapes with radical robust panels grip to the body while lighter weatherproof shapes shield the wearers more vulnerable areas.
For the Autumn/Winter 2022 collection – RED DESERT- EUDON CHOI continues an exploration of the work of the acclaimed Italian director Michelangelo Antonioni. Released in 1965, Red Desert is Antonioni’s first colour film and tells the story of Giuliana, who, following a car crash, becomes increasingly isolated and ostracised by the industrial world in which she lives and who longs for an escape back to nature.
This season’s offering comes as a natural evolution from SS22, as it builds on Robyn’s partnership with the outdoor specialists at Columbia by exploring innovative design practises whilst keeping with its sustainable roots. After creating a full collection out of Columbia’s deadstock pieces for her last outing, Robyn decided to reposition this partnership into the category of outerwear. “Revisiting this project with Columbia has been an eye-opening experience.
This season’s silhouettes are eclectic but always refined. What at first glance might be a sharply constructed jacket is actually an off-the-shoulder top in crepe wool. A jumpsuit with hand-embellished straps is actually tailored separates. While the architectural lines of mini dresses and bustier tops are highlighted by hand-embroideries. Perfect for Capote’s legendary Black and White Ball.
“DESIRE ALUMINIUM JEALOUSY” is a culmination of things much bigger than ourselves: a fresh perspective on human vitality, matter, spirit, and how we can continue to preserve.
Beauty is found in imperfection, so goes an old adage, which underpins the Autumn/Winter 2022 Feng Chen Wang collection.
Inspired from geometric abstraction, the AW22 collection blends geometric abstraction graphics with Johan Ku’s signature knits into artistic apparel.
This collection explores the duality between realism and dreaming, ever-present within all of us. Synchronously acknowledging our collective grounding and the comfortbringing protective layers we cocoon ourselves with, we continue to seek out much-craved moments of levity, beauty, poetry and freedom. Delicately oscillating between the contradictions within.
“HOOPS, BOUNCING, SWINGING”
The tailored suit is dissected horizontally in two and reconstructed with stretch materials.
The uneven dissected parts are reconnected, boning inserted, giving them a life of their own.
With more space between the garment and the body, the bottom piece is freed, excitedly bouncing and
swinging with every step.
The bottom freed, the mind follows with joy.
For Autumn Winter ’22, Completedworks presents a collection through an exploration of public spaces – and the way we passively interact with them: in an imagined town square, office workers take breaks, acquaintances meet, a few weary tourists rest.
U.Mi-1 presents its seasonless collection in “Unto Dust” an experimental short film. It is an existential struggle between the Global North represented by Man, Woman and Dog, and the Global South represented by the indigenous people outside of Man’s utopian home which decays over time. It explores themes of global interconnectedness, and the tension between individualism and community.
Central Saint Martins MA students to showcase their final collections at London Fashion Week. The show presented 32 designers’ collections highlighting the future of fashion.
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
WThis season began with the thought ‘opposites attract’ apostasy reigns amongst the young. We looked at British youth culture the Post punk fall out, skin heads to art school new romantics, modette’s and Blitz club kids.
The FW22 collection combines punk elements, from bright red reworked leather to brass buckles, alongside some more recognizable JENN LEE additions such as the multifunctional zips and statement berets.
Nok Nok
We focus in making exciting unique denim products drawing inspirations from subcultures like Punk, Hip Hop, Rock n Roll to skating, surfing, the art world…Nok Nok’s objective with their products is to make bold statements being different and cool without compromising quality.
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