Scented with Love From India
By Jo Phillips
Once upon a time, in a tiny village in the region of Assam, India, a poor rice farmer named Haji Ajmal Ali lived there with his family. At this point, no technology was available to aid his farming, so one year he could have a good harvest, and the next year bad. How was this man supposed to support his wife and children? It was a scented tree that sparked a new journey. When we think of scent, it is not tiny villages in India we are initially drawn to, but this is a story of one man’s fight to feed his family that grew into a global perfume company. The story of scent and India may go hand in hand through history but this tender and sweet village story changed one man and his loved ones’ world forever. Find out about the latest niche perfume brand to come from India to the UK in Scented with Love From India.
India has always been spiritually connected to perfume and scent. In this vast country, perfume has always been seen as a pathway to attaining spirituality and well-being. Perfume has always been given to Gods in forms such as incense sticks, fragrant water, and fragrant flowers.
Many natural scent ingredients grow here, but the story of perfumes outside of India is little known. Here is one fascinating and unique story.
Alinagar is a small village located in Hojai, Assam, India, and this was where Haji Ajmal Ali hailed from. This story of moving from unstable rice farming to perfumery is unusual, so we ask how and why.
This pious man, who once came face to face with a Bengal tiger, early one morning changed his family’s heritage forever. Not because of the Tiger but its ‘little cousin’ may have played a part in his thinking.
It was a most human of stories, that led to this man thinking about how to change his life. In the poor village, there was a store room or as it was referred to a ‘go-to’. This was where the rice was kept. One day the farmer went to drop something off and saw a cat with her five kittens. A few days later when back there he noticed that 3 of the five had sadly died, there was no mother whilst the other two were hardly surviving.
Being emotionally moved he went around the village asking family and neighbours if anyone knew anything about the cat and her kittens. One neighbour said the cat tried to drink some hot milk that she was making but the cat died not long afterwards. This sad tale spurred on the gentleman to move his life away from rice farming into perfumery. The death of the cat and the suffering of the five kittens was too reminiscent of his five children. What would happen to his family if he was no longer there to provide for them?
Inspiration can take unusual paths. It was one of these that took his life forward. A tree that grew wildly in the backyards of his village, one that no one took note of, became his first encounter with fragrance.
The Aquilaria tree is the principal producer of resin-suffused Agarwood. Used in aromatic incense production, this dark and deep ‘animalic’ wood was used initially for incense. In more common terms Argarwood is known as Oud.
Only when the tree is ‘sick’ can Oud be obtained. Infected with a mould, the tree defensively secretes a resin to combat the fungal infestation. And this is what is most desired.
Left, Uninfected Aquilaria wood, right fragrant, but infected wood
Oud is remarkably rare and precious, and the best forms of it only come from India, (modern farmed production comes from Australia).
So his farming life took a different turn. Initially, farming the Oud and selling it on to agents, in a place then called Bombay (Mumbai) that he had never heard of. Until finally, he sold it directly to customers. It was his natural business acumen, as to why he thought, ‘Who needs a middleman, I can get closer to the customer’.
Once he had cut all the different layers of agents out and built his ring of customers, it was still a time when his oils and Ouds were held in huge trunks, ten kilos each, and the Arab marketers who came to India to trade would buy this raw and powerful scent.
In 1951 Haji Ajmal Ali started blending various kinds of fragrant oils thereby transforming from a farmer into a perfumer. In time, in Mumbai, he set up his first shop at Nagdevi Street in Crawford Market. The rest, as they say, is history. This fragrance story became one that has Indian roots, but is situated in UAE.
In time the house started to produce different types of oils including Amber, Rose, Saffron, and Jasmine which, of course, are all grown and native to India.
But really, the DNA story of the brand is based on Oud used as a signature for many scent creations. Ajmal was the first perfume company to introduce blending Agarwood oil and natural Oriental oils with specialist notes that work for Western fragrances and French perfumes.
Ajmal fragrance house still celebrates a rich heritage, one that spans seven decades in perfumery. They are the world’s only international fragrance house that operates a Farm to Fragrance ethos. Ajmal is a grower, manufacturer and retailer of its exquisite collection of perfumes. Working both with in-house noses and prestige noses from France, it is exciting, because it is coming to London and the UK.
Abdulla Ajmal is now the CEO and happens to be the grandson of the founder. A perfume enthusiast, he has been mentored by some of the greatest names in modern perfumery such as Jacques Chabert, and has led collaborations with master perfumers including Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Arturetto Landi, & Alberto Morillas.
Abdulla Ajmal has been instrumental in the development of a Privé collection. An exclusive range of five perfume collections that bring together heritage, craftsmanship and expertise especially created for the UK market. It is these five Privé collections that will be their initial offering. All the perfumes are from EDP to Extraits, therefore high in perfumed materials, and made at Ajmal’s state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Dubai also where their head office is. After all, they opened their first shop in Dubai in 1976 and grew from there.
Starting with the Gems collection
Think of the natural gemstones that shine and dazzle, coming from different spheres of our globe, think Amethyst from Kariba in Zimbabwe, Emeralds from Bogota Colombia and Diamonds from Kimberley in South Africa.
“Jewel of Bogota” with her green Emeralds,
This is a green, floral spicy top with sweet regal Ylang-Ylang set with the warmth of Pink Pepper. This meets with the intoxicating note of spice and honey from the Red Champaca alongside the honey floral of Orange Blossom, with the majestic flowers of Jasmine and Rose. It melds into one with an end of Musk, Leather, Wood and an Amber base.
“Jewel of Kimberly” celebrates diamonds of the rarest quality.
It opens at its top with Lucuois fruity and floral notes. Think vibrant juicy Pear and Blackcurrant that mix with the delicate ‘honey-powder’ of divine Rose. Her heart shines with floral notes too, Geranium with her facets of spice and rose meld with her facets of citrus and fruity accents. She becomes the echo of her top notes and a connection to the base. Wood and Moss play with soft cashmere wood, cedarwood and sexy oakmoss, to bring the whole scent alive.
Finally, the gem collection contains its third tribute:-
“Jewel of Kariba” where purple Amethysts shine brightly.
Here the initial burst is again bright fruits but this time, find Pineapple with her distant cousin Apple. Both sweet yet vital they meet with the most sensual of flowers Jasmine. This finishes in a soft hug in scent form from Vanilla Amber and Musk
Then comes The Royal Collection a regal collection of elegant powerful scents.
The “Royal Mystic” is the fragrance of luxury and refinement.
It’s Fruity and spicy top brings rich dried fruits and subtle spice of Saffron. Violet leaves and rooty powdery Iris at the heart. A woody, balsamic and musky base with Patchouli, Benzoin and Vanilla.
The “Royal Mantra” manifests a sense of confidence and the feeling of being regal.
Bursting open with citrusy, rich juicy fruity and spicy notes of Bergamot, Grapefruit, Blackcurrant, Pineapple, pink Pepper and Saffron. A floral heart with Jasmine, Rose, Geranium, Orchid and Lily of the Valley. A sweet, ambery, mossy and woody base with Tonka, Vanilla, Chocolate, Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli and Musk. This rich sunshine of a set ends on a soft alluring smokey note.
The “Royal Muse” is regal yet playful at the same time.
A sweet, aromatic top with Hawthorn and dried green of Clary Sage. A floral and Oud heart with Rose, Jasmine, and an Oud accord. A woody, ambery, balsamic base with Amber, Labdanum Patchouli and resinous Benzoin.
The next collection is called Signature The Signature collection encapsulates power and sophistication celebrating the cornerstone of Ajaml perfumery; Oud here seen with a Leather accord, spices and Cocoa
“Cocoa Wood” reflects the appreciation for finer things.
Citrusy, fruity and spicy at the top with Bergamot, alongside fruity facets of Strawberry, Black currant, Plum, Raspberry, and soft spice of Ginger and Saffron. A noble floral heart of Rose, Jasmine, and Geranium gives it floral depth. A musky, ambery, woody and Oud base with an addictive bitterness via cocoa.
“Leather Wood” combines class and elegance, setting a perfect balance
Citrusy, with bright vivacious Bergamot, and fruity with Blackcurrant, Plum and Raspberry at the top. Floral sticks its heart again with the queens of Rose, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine and Geranium. The base holds an animalic facet via a Leather Accord making it alluring in a slight ‘dark-sexy- way.
Finally in this collection comes “Musk Wood” which symbolises refinement, luxury and a little bit of mystery…
Fruity, juicy exploding top with luscious Raspberry, Strawberry, and Plum, alongside spicy gentle heat of pink Pepper, black Pepper and Saffron. A floral heart again with the victorious trio of Jasmine, Iris and Rose. A soft and sensual cuddle of a base of musk that leaves a sensual and deep finish.
Now comes even more power, if that is possible in the collection Kristaal pure oil perfumes with some of the world’s most exotic notes
“Kinz” is an inspiration. It is the person wearing the perfume.
Opening with the hay-floral notes of spice with Saffron. Its heart is sweet with Cocoa. A Woody, spicy base with balsamic citrus of Cedarwood and woody sap like Frankincense. Dive into this luxurious oil and stay there forever.
“Darena” literally means “Wealth of Life”
A light citrusy top with Mandarin, and aromatic Lavender, meld with pine-like Cypress and spicy Pepper. A floral, woody and balsamic heart of floral-green Geranium, with earthy woody smoke of Cypriol and Fil Balsam. A woody and mossy base rounds up this deep and delicious oil with dark deep Patchouli, Gurjun Balsam and earthy woody mirroring from Oakmoss.
“Tharwa” meaning “Fortune of Life”, symbolizes popularity and success.
Fruity, and spicy with Apple, Mango and creamy spice of Cardamon open this oil. This floral heart is made with Iris, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Jasmine and Ylang Ylang. A woody, leathery and sweet base ties this up with Cedarwood, Patchouli, dry-grass-rooty Vetiver, resinous Benzoin, warming sweet Tonka and a Leather accord.
The final collection coming to the UK as if we won’t spoilt enough is the Galaxy Collection. An otherworldly collection of perfumes that takes inspiration from the power and emotion that our galaxies and its moon and sun can evoke.
“Malin”, meaning “Fragrant Universe”, can be associated with a whole cosmos enriched and enhanced with fragrance.
Fresh and fruity at the top with brightness from Bergamot, Pineapple, Plum, and Strawberry. A floral heart with wonderful earthy powdery rooty yet green Iris widely cultivated in Florence and French Provence. A flourish at its base of woody leathery facets of Cypriol, Sandalwood and Patchouli.
“Tayen”, referring to “The Memory of a Million Moons” evokes a sense of a softer side, the emotionally enchanting part.
Bright and bursting with lively citrus top notes of Mandarin and Lemon. Floral at the heart, with the elegance of Jasmine and Lily of the Valley. Finishing in a woody, mossy and musky base with Sandalwood that is distilled from the heartwood of a mature tree bringing a woody and floral edge.
Finally meet “Kuiper”, derived from “The Grandeur and Glory of the Solar System”, inspired by the radiance of the sun and its power.
Opening with full-on citrus and spice via lively Bergamot. Its floral heart, with the divinity of Regal Rose. Culminating in a woody and sweet base, with Cedarwood, rooty grassy Vetiver, earthy sexy Patchouli and sweet Vanilla.
These perfumes are not for those who are faint-hearted. These are scents for people who want to ‘wear a perfume’, not those who let a scent dictate. These are full-on rich, extravagant deep and sensual.
They use naturals alongside nature identical, to ensure consistency and a fair price, as well as, keeping the highest standards. But because it was and still is a family-founded business, the company’s values, of generosity, excellent relationships and community, remain at the heart of the Ajmal brand.
It was the first company to launch an extensive afforestation program in the hills of NE India with over 500,000 Agarwood trees planted. They remain a vital source of income, employment and financial independence to the female community within the Assam region, as well as providing care for orphaned children in the region.
The plantation also grows fine perfume ingredients such as Jasmine Sambac, Jasmine Grandiflorum, Tuberose, Mimosa, Lotus, Rose, Lavender and Chamomile.
Like other great exports from India, its perfumed world is just as important as Yoga, and Ayurvedic practices. Historically, there is a deep tradition of incense and small perfume producers in India. Ajmal allows us all to emotionally engage, with these rich Indian Perfumes.
To find out all you would like to know about the brand please visit en-ae.ajmal.com here and their Iinstagram.com/ajmalperfumes/
If you enjoyed reading Scented with Love From India then why not read The Expression of Love here