Milan Menswear A/W 16-17 Highlights
By Jo Phillips
Cent magazine brings highlights from Milan Men’s Fashion Week, showing you an array of world class designers for AW16/17.
On the 15th of January, Roberto Cavalli opened Milan fashion week men’s collection with a breathtaking show. From animal prints to extravagant and shiny colours, passing by oversized fur coats to embroidered velvet blazers, without forgetting those magnificent belted waists: everything in Cavalli’s A/W16 collection screams 70’s.
Corneliani brought a 40’s vibe into Milan’s catwalks. Indeed, predominant details such as crochet- jumpers, waisted coats, padded shoulders jackets and a brownish colour palette gave an overall feeling of post-war fashion. However, by adding oversized cashmere coats and by working in detail every piece, Corneliani added a delightful modern twist to his collection.
Ermenegildo Zgna’s A/W16 collection perfectly depicts the modern dandy. Indeed, the combination of cool oversized trousers and coats, as well as embroidered jumpers and elegant, beautiful prints, patterns and delicate fabrics, creating the contemporary gentleman. Moreover, the utilization of greys and browns, in addition with structured shoulders refers once again to the 40’s post-war fashion.
Pal Zileri A/W16 collection is all about the mixture of luxury and self-expression. Sumptuously crafted fabrics such as patterned silks, cosy cloudy grey suits and combinations of crochet-jumpers and blazers are what really made the collection so special.
Inspired by astronomy and astrology, Versace’s A/W garments are without any doubt a step into the future. Metallics and astrological prints are predominant in the collection, alongside with lustrous tailoring. The modern Versace man is a man “who is connected to the future”- Donatella Versace.
More than a typical fashion show, Phillip Plein’s catwalk was a real spectacle. The models walked against Lil’ Wayne’s voice, accompanied by a 30 piece orchestra. Moreover, as a backdrop you could see professional skateboarder and BMX riders who performed live. However this did not steal Plein’s wonderful collection, which captured all the attention. Luxurious fabrics such as velvet, crocodile and python were mixed with leather jackets and trousers. Yet, the collection was mainly based on sportswear beautifully ornamented with super hero pins. This are the new apparel for the modern superHero.
A slight futuristic vibe flew over Calvin Klein’s catwalk last Sunday. The colours for its A/W collection are mainly black and white, however the use of metallic brings originality into the elegant garments. Clear lines, straight cuts, the brand showed that less is more.
Daks presented to Milan fashion week what British elegance is all about. Beautiful fabrics such as velvet, silk and even chiffon were used for its handcrafted tailoring. Moreover, Daks presented luxurious knitwear made out cashmere, alpaca and mohair, which reflected the proper Dandy spirit. To finish, the collection’s colour palette and motifs are clearly an ode to the world of abstract art.
Damir Doma’s central feature was the idea of the oversized, keeping garments baggy however sculptural. A strong layering element featured high neck ribbed jumpers, straight jackets whilst accessorizing with neoprene boots.
Prada unveiled a very wearable and tailored collection. The garments displayed a certain confidence on the models, featuring cropped trousers, double-breasted coats evoking a sense of sailor style, as well as staying true to their traditional sophistication by including leather and polished shoes.
Salvator Ferragamo explored the illustrative manner to dressing. The collection cleverly united the smart with the artistically relaxed by teaming tailored trousers with bombers, duffle coats and parkas.
It was clear to see that the West heavily dominated Antonio Marras’ collection, inspired by cowboys, Indians and men in the wild. The catwalk brought a distinct edge for AW16, displaying patchwork denim, reworked checkered prints, oiled fringed jackets with floral embroidered detailing.
Brioni shaped a very composed collection full of sharp lines and structure. This is especially shown through the checkered design, which is printed throughout the collection whilst fusing together oversized features including scarves, sweatshirts and coats alongside a slim form.
Diesel produced a collection reflected around the urban biker. Garments displayed a strong sense of functionality through leather ponchos, combat trousers and oversized bomber jackets, whilst harnesses were layered and accessorized onto outfits.
Dsquared2 brought a blend of both Great Britain and Japan into the mix, as the collection displayed an array of denim, leather and graphics. The garments included punk rudiments such as exposed leather zips, distressed denim, as well as revealing adventurous features on coats such as metallic quilted lining and manga styled cartoon prints.
Ermanno Scervino formed their collection around a very grey colour palette, the garments radiated depth with various shades of grey and contrasting textures, which are shown through embroidered prints on jumpers, fur-trimmed embossed coats and ruffled shirts.
Gucci’s poetic collection has an androgynous feel shown through the use of feminine blouses and cropped sleeves on jackets and coats. The over sized loose pleated trousers contrasted with tight knitwear and sheer floral blouses create effeminate silhouettes. The colour scheme is in keeping with the AW16/17 trends, seeing lots of camel and an array of other autumnal colours.
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Inspired by the 70s hippie culture this collection shows psychedelic prints and geometrics. Rave culture also influenced Marcelo Burlon we see this through the addition of Vinyl to set off the thick organic knits. A mix of influential periods are brought together in this collection and topped off with taped flyknit sneaker boots to finish off the dynamic feel.
MSGM showed us a juxtaposition of grunge and tailoring with pleated trousers paired with frayed edge knitwear. Techno raver colours, electric blue and acid red, run throughout the collection. Themes of romance feature in the floral printed shirts which run alongside PVC trousers showing more raver themes.
Fendi displayed a fluffy affair in Milan, from furry footwear to an statement oversized fluffy bag. The collections showed a lot of navy in different velvets, denims and tweed alongside a vibrant acid yellow that dominated the fur lined jackets. We also saw a silk patterned lounge suits hidden under tailored coats. The whole collection was thriving with luxury and elegance.
Etro followed themes of nature and kept a traditional feel to the collection, although with its own twist. Frayed cashmere jumpers with engulfing necks are paired with slightly oversized drop crotched trousers. There is not a tie in sights, instead we saw a statement red sequin blazer to finish off the look. Etro, the modern twist to the 70’s fashion.
