Flowing; Winemaker X Master Perfumer
By Edena Klimenti
The perfume industry is one with many secrets. What goes into perfumes is not always as clean as we would hope, however ‘Abel’ is launching luxury fragrance house using entirely natural ingredients, and it is launching here in the UK. Frances Shoemack, a former wine maker, found her love for perfumery when she realized the craft of perfumery and winery do not differ a great deal. She has always been interested in perfume and the beauty of perfumery, and with a background in oenology, the study of wine, and viti-culture, the study of grapes, she put her skills into a new and exciting craft, perfume making. After realizing that natural perfumes did not exist, she decided to make it her mission to create just that.
The collection was created in collaboration with Isaac Sinclair, fellow perfumer, who has a bright history and future in the perfume industry; from studying at the ‘School of Five Senses’ to working with world renowned brands like, L’Oreal, Lancome, DKNY and Natura. The aim was to create a luxurious perfume house that uses the finest natural ingredients and 21st century technology to create enchanting, classic scents. Thus, ‘Abel’ was born. Their vision is ‘Vita Odor’ (Living Fragrance) a collection which consists of five natural Eau de parfum fragrances that capture the beauty of each individual 100% natural ingredient.
Red Santal
(Clove bud, black pepper, bergamot, ginger, thyme & east indian sandalwood)
This perfume is a spicy pepper and clove, as it merges onto the skin as the Calabrian bergamot explores the elegance and class of the east indian sandalwood.
White Vetiver
(Lime, peppermint, ginger, palmarosa, vetiver & vanilla)
This perfume is the epitome of cool and fresh, opening up with its creamy lime and mint carnation and closes with its subtle wood dry down.
Golden Neroli
(Neroli, matcha tea, petitgrain, ylang ylang, & East Indian Sandalwood)
This perfume opens with its harmonious neroli and matcha tea accord, jasmine sambac, petitgrain and ylang ylang bouquet, finishing off with a soft sandalwood.
Cobalt Amber
(Pink pepper, cardamon, cacao, Tonka & amber)
Giving classic amber a twist, the pink pepper and juniper berry meet, creating this sophisticated scent.
Grey Labdanum
(Grapefruit, violet, patchouli, clary sage, labdanum)
Grey Labdanum opens up with a hint of grapefruit and violet, whilst the dark ambergris merge with warm patchouli to create a perfect harmony.
In order to create the greatest natural perfumes, ‘Abel’ have revealed a new formula which was discovered through intensive research and planning. The fragrances are created with a highly concentrated mixture of natural, and organic where possible, oils and isolates. Natural isolates allow ‘Abel’ to have access to ingredients which previously were not available to natural perfumers. Musk is conventionally sourced from the male musk deer, however ‘Abel’ have introduced a musk naturally derived from the Ambrette seed in their ‘Vita Odor’ collection. Synthetic musk is generally used in perfume as its role is to fixate and enhance the fragrance, but it is known to be toxic to the environment as well as our bodies. This is why ‘Abel’ were determined to source a safe and natural musk, which is a great achievement for the perfume industry; and it does not compromise the luxury, long lasting quality of the perfumes.
‘Being able to source a safe, natural musk is super exciting for us.’ – Frances Shoemack.
‘Creating perfume without musk is like cooking without butter.’ – Isaac Sinclair
The entire collection embodies the beauty of natural ingredients in perfumery; whilst never compromising the element of luxury within the scents. In collaboration with Amsterdam Atelier Jochaim Baan, the simple, modern design of the packaging pays homage to the commitment of natural ingredients and the purpose behind them. ‘Abel’ is launching this summer, as it is a perfect time to introduce luxurious natural fragrances. Available at http://roullierwhite.com/