London Fashion Week: Spring Summer 2021
By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford
London Fashion Week showcasing the Spring Summer 2021 collections.
With the world, the way it is right now LFW took a very new approach to showing collections. There were a few spaced out shows a few invitation-only presentations.
“Sobering and exploding, Pragmatic, and foreboding. Personal, provocative, suggestive intimacy, excavating.”
Simone Rocha Spring-Summer 2021 celebrates the female form, in details of hand-embroidery and in hues of amber gold and black, exploring the idea of looking for comfort and secruity in the extreme.
1×1 Studio pays tribute to the idea of commitment, looking at the idea of what can be cherished or worth preserving. Elements of the collection feature hand-made knitwear, digital patterns, knitted trousers, and suits all with a commitment to sustainability.
Edward Crutchley’s Spring Summer 2021 collection looks to the 1986 film Gokudô no Onna-Tachi, infusing the element of female bosses. The collection heavily features British fabrics in Prince Of Wales check, pajama shirt, soft talioring, and collaborations with Steven Jones, Christian Louboutin and Judith Leiber.
Bora Aksu goes back to 1918 for the Spring Summer 2021 collection, in collaboration with Linda Farrow. Exploring a time of contract and conflict. The collection features oversized silhouettes in shades of cream and blue, creating a soft yet structured style in silk tulles and organza.
Danshan Spring Summer 2021 collection titled ‘Momental’ that celebrates the joy and clarity of free-thinking. The collection features georgette, satin in hues of black and white with splashes of abstract forms.
Spring Summer 2021 was an exploration of freedom in a current world full of unpredictability and uncertainty. Vinti Tan and Paul Andrews come together to create a collection with reconstruction and repurposing at the heart. The collection features hues of white and black with injections of denim and graphic prints.
“To me, times of re-emergence call for pure creation: the most uplifting feeling I can think of. I didn’t design this collection with cocktail parties or ballrooms in mind, but purely from the desire to capture in dressmaking the individuality embodied by savoir-fair, and the joy it brings to those who wear it. This collection was created in celebration of the women on the frontline, and for anyone it may inspire and uplift.”
Michael Halpern
Preen’s Spring Summer 20201 collection was developed during the lockdown. A unique infusion of kids textile projects made while homeschooling and the inspiration of Japanese art taking the idea of something that is broken and remake. The collection is also made entirely of sustainable materials and silhouettes that really go back to the route of the brand.
The Spring Summer 2020 collection from Margaret Howell aims to be contemporary and relaxed, upholding the idea of constant review and renewal. The collection features cotton, linen and wool, in a dark colour palette that is also in collaboration with Barbour.
“The origins of the word ‘escape’ are thought to be from Latin ex, meaning out of, and cappa, meaning cloak. To emerge from the dark cloak and into freedom; it’s an image that gains a new profundity in these strange and shadowy times.”
“Merging the boundaries between fashion and art, the collection is interpreted as a romantic novel that explores the struggles and contradictions of recent times. Inspired by the possibility of freedom, the celebration of nature, the outdoor world, calmness and liberation.”
For Spring Summer 2021 Luna del Pinal focuses particularly on upcycling, the collection features linen and cotton, infused with colour and textures inspired by the culture of India.
Mark Fast
For Spring Summer 2021 Mark Fast took a look back and reconnected with the core of the brand, looking deeper into his original fashion fascination and cultural aspiration.
The collection features both menswear and womenswear as well as unisex elements, with knitwear details, bleached denim, the ‘MF’ logo all in vivid neon colours.
Prophetik
“Down the Rabbit Hole” defines a fantasy world in an unknown abyss seeking to discover yet venturing with no path. Garner draws thought-provoking silhouettes Victorian Influenced mismatched natural fabrics of hemp, linen, silk, from Indonesia, Scotland, and the Americas creating a visual plethora for a mad hatter dinner party. “
The Spring Summer 2021 collection from Eudon Choi was titled Fuga Estiva (Summer Escape) transporting you to an ideal summer vacation in Italy. The collection features hues of green, terracotta and fabrics of linen, cotton, also in collaboration with Ancient Greek Sandals, Talia Collins and jewellery by Liv & Dom.
‘Spring Summer 2021 is a soul-searching investigation that explores heritage and tradition. It celebrates the designer’s individuality, self-confidence and the power of femininity through culture and gentle beauty.‘
“This capsule collection was created during the UK lockdown period with limited access to suppliers and resources with a small team all working virtually throughout most of the process. Whilst being at home for 4 months, I was able to spend a lot of time outside with my Grandparents and actually speak with them and hear all of their stories.”
Shanna Bent
‘For Spring Summer 2021, HUISHAN ZHANG explored the concept of material transparency, experimenting with fabrics and shapes throughout the collection. It felt like a season to celebrate fabrics to the maximum, through colour, shape and exploration.’
Art School London’s Spring Summer 2021 collection was titled ‘Therapy ‘ The collection was the largest show far for the brand. Broken into three sections the collection featured oversized tailoring, and fabrics of silk, some slashed and distressed in an overall dark colour palette of greens, blacks and heavy with texture.
SS21 also continues a collaboration with artists Richard Porter to create sculptural jewellery.
This collection is about freedom- to explore, to dress up, to be yourself. It is rooted in our true DNA, our language; strong tailoring, sharp colour, modernity. And dressing women
Victoria Beckham
Spring Summer 2021 from Paul Costelloe was a vision of optimism and new beggings. The collection featured elements of layering, Irish and Italian lines and injections of traditional summer colours.
This is the perfect collection to fly a kite and a dream
Paul Costelloe
The Spring Summer 2021 collection from palmer // harding has a heavy impact from Covid-19. Allowing the brand to re-evaluate design, sustainability factors and above all what they value the most: ‘family and the friends we consider choosen family’
We’re stationary, and time passes through us.”I’m Thinking of Ending Things
Iain Reid
‘Transparencies, textures, overlapping layers, empty and contrasting areas reflect and at the same time lead on to an exploratory journey that started with this collection.’
The SS20 collection features artisanal craft and recycled materials produced in local workshops aiming to help both the community and the environment.
The Spring Summer 2021 collection by Matty Bovan titled F.O.E (Future.Olde.England) was a celebration of British history. With details of stripes, checks, shields screen printed onto fabric all in countless bold bright hues.
‘For me this collection is all about questioning my own personal vision of England and what it means to be English; looking at England’s past, England’s present and England’s future‘
The Spring Summer 2021 collection from Erdem was titled In The Shadows Of The Volcano. Featuring floral, light knits, layering and a tone of history.
‘History is punctuated with explosive events that force change’
‘
Feng Chen Wang debuts a personal and powerful ode to community.
Community has long been a source of inspiration for the designer, who often
mines her heritage in China’s Fujian province and works with the people
there. Community – and the idea of human connection more broadly – are
fundamental components of her practice.’
‘Designed and edited via the unfiltered lens of lockdown, the Spring Summer 2021 collection is infused
with a keen sense of functionality and purpose as well as notions of beauty and happiness.’
Spring Summer 2021 from Katie Ann McGuigan draws inspiration from the designers own family history.
The collection features organza printed dresses, with silk scarfs to match, leather jackets and signature hand dyed details.
Collection 1.1 for Sabirah contuines to be inspired painting created by Tamara Natalie Madden who’s work looks at everyday women elevated to regal status.
I was particularly drawn to the painting called ‘Paradise’, where a female figure is portrayed with beautiful dark skin in shades of blue and her hair is transformed into a gold leaf halo of curls
Deborah Latouche
The collection features a brilliant colour palette of aqua, mustard,fuschia and cream made from re-purposed materials resulting in both impeccable tailored and elegant collection that is both modest and luxurious.
‘For SS21, Bianca Saunders addresses “The Ideal Man”, exploring cut and proportion, fluidity and movement. It’s about a character in clothing, narrative through construction, and the multiplicity of “ideals” within us.‘
The SS21 collection from Bianca Saunders features light-weight jackets with sharp shoulders, which continues through the collection, with stripes, denim and additions of vegan leather bags.
I am always interested in our characters, and how to express this through clothing. I was thinking about my ideal man and customer, representing them through my signatures of cut and construction
Bianca Saunders
Tran Hung
The inspiration behind the SS21 collection titled’Revival’ is based on an idea that was formed in 2016. Exploring powerful women in his life who are strong, independent and empower that independence and liberation.
We are proud to be the only fashion brand in Vietnam working towards developing an ethical and sustainable fashion house. 90% of the raw materials that Tran Hung uses are environmentally friendly material and ethically sourced, silk
Tran Hung
The SS21 collection from Toga was titled “WHOLESOME, CUTTING, SPLITTING”
Incorporating excess into otherwise functional elements designed to clothe strong bodies for sports the healthy body that provides spiritual wealth and guides the heart to enrichment. There was a need to balance the body and mind.
‘Home Alone’ was the title for the Spring Summer 2020 collection from Christopher Kane. Inspired by the impact of the mindset created from lockdown, each piece is one of a kind and have an uncertain outcome. ‘The mindscapes are a glimpse of my mental state and feelings: frustration, joy, fear, love, boredom, exhilaration, and chaos.’
The exhibition is a selection of clothes that are extensions of the paintings, some are digitally printed, others hand-painted, and some glitter screen prints. For SS21 I had zero desire to create a large collection, I want to simplify and reduce output.
Christopher Kane
The SS21 sustainable collection is infused with collaboration and a reflection of his mind and journey during the pandemic. ‘Cementing a fusion between the SS21 fashion pieces and the grandeur of billowing totems, constructed, further illustrates Emilio’s’ journey. To create and build the sculptures, Emilio collaborated with a community of tradesman’s, in their own.’
Bulka
unhurt – unstruck – unbeaten – ‘The rich fringes, tassels, coins, glass and metal beads traditionally used in an ethnic dress across Serbia are now used in a modern and fashionable way so that each piece is wearable for every occasion. The collection champions heritage and discovery and reflects a celebration of happiness and endless enthusiasm for the designer.’ A collection that is a celebration of both Indian and Serbian heritage.
I always had sports around me; my father handed me a tennis racket when I was four – this season especially, I felt like I wanted to do something that I loved
David Koma
Osman
The collection from Osman Yousefzada embraced sustainability heavily featuring upcycling fabrics from previous collections, deadstock elements all while embracing beautiful volume and texture through the collection.
A digital fashion show excited us with blurs and clashes or colour as Molly Goddard took a colourful approach to the spring-summer 2021 season. The collection also features deadstock fabric, with details f printed denim, knits, frills and of course lots of tulle, SS21 also featured a collaboration with Stephen Jones to create woollen hats.
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