For the Love of Historical, Divine Scents
By Jo Phillips
The history of London, the capital city of England and the United Kingdom extends over 2000 years. At that time, it became one of the world’s most significant financial and cultural capital cities. It has withstood plague, devastating fire, civil war, aerial bombardment, terrorist attacks, and riots. At the same time, it has spawned so much creativity that it is considered one of the most artistic cities in the world. From buildings to furniture, music to art via fashion and scent. It is a city where history mingles effortlessly with culture, ohh and it smells great too. Find out more in For the Love of Historical, Divine Scents
London, a city so vast and diverse, with many secrets longing to be discovered. As it has been built over for thousands of years it doesn’t have the straight and ordered street of say NYC, but is made up of a myriad of cobweb roads to alleyways; some famous, some infamous.
A detailed copy of John Rocque‘s Map of London, 1741–5
One of the most important yet lesser-known roads is a one-way site called Jermyn Street known for its gentlemen’s-clothing retailers and other men’s accoutrements.
As well as having Turkish baths it also was the home of many famous names including The Duke of Marlborough, Isaac Newton the artist John Keyse Sherwin and New Seland chefs and entertainers, Hudson and Halls.
It has a long and fascinating history, exclusive and richly historical retail districts initially named after Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St Albans, initially called “Jarman Streete”. Dating back to the 17th century part of its reputation for high-end menswear and accessories was because it supplied the surrounding royal palaces with the rarest and finest luxury apparel.
These shops traditionally sold and still do sell shirts and other gentlemen’s attire such as hats, shoes, shaving apparel, brushes colognes, braces and collar stiffeners.
Over the years it has become slightly more diverse with a cheese shop, barbers and Cigar shop. Founded several centuries after the street had established itself, in 1979, Czech & Speake arrived emanating from the historical tradition of a British gentlemen’s discerning eye for luxury. Very quickly it established a respected reputation in keeping with the more established names in the area.
Created by designer Frank Sawkins, Czech & Speake remains one of the last great independent fine fragrance and gentlemen’s grooming brands, in the heart of London.
In 1981 the house launched its first fragrance. In March 1981 under the title of ‘Eau de Cologne’, Neroli EDP. It brightened the scent of the street and still sits as the brand’s most iconic fragrance.
Fragrant bitter orange blossom explodes and flows, whilst warm orange flowers are fused with the sharp zest of the bright orange fruit to create a refreshing and long-lasting fragrance.
In the heart find layered heady warm Neroli flower, this is a light, citrus-loving fragrance that refreshes in hot climes with a base to tie the juice together of Ylang-ylang.
Launched officially in late 1981, No.88 is their most popular scent. The iconic fragrance was inspired by the founder’s first experience of New York in the 70s, having been influenced by the city’s ‘Golden Period’ of affluent and inspiring creatives.
It opens with the reviving fresh yet woody floral of Geranium with Bergamot to give an invigorating top, where it then melds with Rose Otto from Turkish damask Roses, Cassie and decadently sweet, floral Frangipani. This all culminates in dry-grass-rooty Vertiver with soft sandalwood.
In 1984 came Frankincense & Myrrh, with notes of Lemon Orange Basil and clary sage with a heart of Myrrh Chamomile and Pimento leaf with a base of Frankincense Lavender, Sandalwood and Cedarwood for a delicious herbaceous blend. 1986 brought the Mimosa scent created with memories from the warm, moody, sultry climate of the American Deep South. With opening notes of Geranium and Ylang Ylang a heart of Mimosa and Jasmine with a resinous spicey finish of Clove and Benzoin.
The last perfume of the 1980s was the iconic Rose a scent to be worn by women and men. Opening with the most regal of flowers the Rose accompanied by Geranium with her Rose-like facets. This meets in the heart of Ylang Ylang, all of which fall into a base of earth-rich Patchouli. A deep and lasting floral blend.
The 90s saw the creation of the very British Oxford and Cambridge, a fresh cologne for every day, with Bergamot, Oakmoss Lavender and Mint. 2002 brought Cuba kick-started the 2000’s Inspired by Cuba, specifically the old town of Havana, with its Latin rhythms, cabaret, music, delicious rum, and fantastic cigars. 2003 saw the launch of Dark Rose utilising the rare ingredients, rituals and traditions that have captivated the Arab and Indian worlds for generations. With 2011 came the house’s take on Vetiver. Vetiver Vert was created in homage to the classic masculine Vetiver fragrances that surged in popularity through the 20th century.
Included in the fragrance collection are Spanish Cedar, Ausonia and Perfecto Fino. 2024 brings its latest fragrance to the shelves. Amber 7. Why Amber 7? The scent was seven years in the making, and the 7 signifies this as the seventh, and final, formulation.,
“Refined over several years, our first Amber fragrance conjures memories of ancient traditions in perfumery.
An exotic blend of woody, resinous and honeyed base notes balanced with fresh, soothing top notes creates a timeless, modern fragrance that is both elegant and captivating”
– Frank Sawkins, Czech & Speake founder
Amber is an important note in perfumery but of course, the Amber resin has no smell of its own, so what is used is an idea of its scent. Therefore all perfumes with Amber are made up of an accord, a blend of multiple fragrance notes that represent a facet or characteristic of the fragrance.
Here it includes a complex collection of ingredients, including vanilla, cistus and benzoin. The fragrance is completed with notes of vibrant Lime, Bergamot, Rosemary and Eucalyptus as an opening with Mytle and zesty Ginger heart. Finishing with cocooning Vanilla, Hay alongside resinous Benzion earthy Patchouli cistus and gentle wood of Cedar. Fiesty spicy and warming
All of these scents are made using the finest quality ingredients and raw materials. Created by designer Frank Sawkins, Czech & Speake remains one of the last great independent fine fragrance and gentlemen’s grooming brands.
Its elegant signature style from the Grooming products bathroom accessories and body, bath and home scents each item including its fragrances carry the heritage and echo the history of every foot that walked upon its paved paths and pavements. yet at the same time, it brings a youthful twist to heritage.
To discover the new Amber Fragrance please visit here and to see all that the house has to offer please visit www.czechandspeake.com