LCM Saturday highlights
By Jo Phillips
Cent Magazine’s LCM Highlights from Saturday 9th January.
Setting the scene of a roller disco in the 1980’s this collection showed retro themes. Double breasted coats and bomber jackets made a main appearance alongside duffle coats and Henley shirts. Accessorised with neck scarfs and ties gives the collection a smarter finished look. All the models were wearing a Christian Louboutin adaptation of the 1890s clogs.
Agi & Sam focused on the simplistic art of military dressing. The collection cleverly manipulated specific details in the clothes, such as misplaced pockets, exposed zips and super cropped jackets. We see the harsh dark block colours contrasted with full small check suits on the catwalk creating a well balanced collection.
Astrid Andersen and French DJ / Producer powerhouse Brodinski collaborated in the Red Bull Catwalk Studio, creating a bespoke catwalk soundtrack for Astrid’s Autumn/Winter 2016 show. This season is all about intuition for Astrid Andersen. There is a huge focus on fabrics in this collection running from quilted nylons and technical fine-gage polyamide to luxury wools and a technical take on denims.
Cropped and wide skate trousers were alongside donkey jackets and bucket hats in this collection. Key pieces include wedge clogs, biker chelsea boots, and 60’s inspired wool ponchos. The atmosphere of the show was set with a folk rock music by a live band creating a fun and welcoming ambience.
Before the show even began we were extremely impressed by the leather pocketed beautiful invite sent over to for our Editor. Taking inspiration from the east coast, blue-collar masculine style, Coach have combined this with elements of the original New York Hip-Hip. We see rich mustard yellows in contrast with emerald greens creating an interesting colour palette.
Lifejacket inspired gilets, detachable collars and hoods and brushed wool to mimic camel hair. Lou Dalton took inspiration from her home away from home, Shetland, to complete her AW16 collection. We see oversized smart silhouettes with unfitted shirts and jumpers.
Prints played a large role in this collection from checks to potato stamp prints to houndstooth. The key items included a tobacco patchwork suede buffalo jacket playing on the overall theme of African music. A wide diversity of models was used for the show through age and race, this made the collection more relatable.
Matthew Miller reclaims Nouveau Riche as the theme to this seasons collection. He uses shapes and fabrics of history as the backbone to his creations that follow the matrix theme. Many garments have religious symbolic images printed onto them.
Military is a theme we have seen growing this weekend, and plays a part in this collection. Casely Hayford used the theme of Irregimental Youth to portray her adaptation of a mix between psychedelic with 90s rave culture. Gold rope detailing on a royal blue background gives a luxurious feel.
SIBLING are obsessed with the pop culture of the seventies and eighties. Disco vs. Hip Hop, hard vs. soft, as encapsulated by the boys they create. The collection is clearly engulfed in the sportswear trend, particularly focusing on boxing with oversized boxing gloves finishing off some looks.
Maharishi ended day two with an powerful urban collection. Amazing hip hop beats did not only keep the crowd alive, but it allowed the models to be free and even ended up dancing. From traditional garments to sharp tailoring all mixed together with a sport edge.
Interesting shapes from Mackintosh, especially shown in the beautiful asymmetrical poncho. Still keeping in line with classical cuts displayed through an array of clean-cut coats, each varying in styles, shapes and colours. The asymmetric poncho showed a modern twist on original 60’s folk trends.
Raimond Berthold’s presentation explored volume and shelter. Robust fabrics were used to cover and protect. There was tension throughout the collection between covering and smothering. Smart coats and neat shirts have half-bib fronts.
Hardy Amies showcased the finest tailoring of Saville Row in the London Art’s Club. Clean structured pieces, often featuring a knit jumper and crisp white shirt underneath, whilst refining a typically classic style of sophistication.
Mr.Porter collaborated with retailed Beams, presenting six up and coming Japanese brands. The collection contained a range of comfortable, contemporary styles whilst including distressed patchwork denim details.
The rain doesn’t stop fashion and Soulland proved this today within the AW16 season. Clear umbrellas were used to keep the models dry, but they merely added to the atmosphere. The amazing crashed cars set design was well executed. The streetwear has been brought to the catwalk in this collection showing contrasts of flower patterns and light denims. The collection was finished off with all models in Timberland shoes.
A real richness was encapsulated at Thomas Pink, extracting inspiration from local architecture, industry and environment. Bold and brilliant tones were teamed together, featuring hues of magenta and indigo, soft florals and checkered shirts and paisley printed scarves.
Christopher Shannon showcased a small yet finely detailed collection for AW16. Presented within a beautiful wooded set. Shannon traditional pops of colour added a fun yet timeless feel to the overall designs. Here again we see the sports theme running throughout the collect, with inspiration taken from the 90s.
