Originality Makes for The Mother of all Watches
By Jo Phillips
We often hear from the doom mogers and naysayers, that everything has been done and nothing is original any more. Not True: However, ingenuity, original thinking, and unique creativity are really, really rare. Not very often do we see thinking outside of the box. In a world where, it seems, revenue margins rule the freedom to create has been somewhat curtailed. But once in a while, something magical comes along and we get stopped in our tracks. Meet new luxury watchmaker Vanguart. The epitome of craft, art, maths, science and design collide here in the world of the timepiece, totally breaking the mould. As visually compelling as they are technically brilliant, at the same time, throwing a curve ball in order to be utterly left field. When creativity drives a project forward, dreams come to life and at the same time change the world.
In the very heritage-driven world of watchmaking. Change-driven innovation is rare. Yes materials are upgraded, and depth (who can make the thinnest watch) has become a bit of a conversation piece, but little new happens in the mechanism, which, after all, is the key component. Most horologists and luxury brands in this arena, create a new style, by changing the ‘outside design’ but the inner workings can easily be the same as other styles already in the brand offering. The mechanism is rarely updated. Just a new style of dial, case and strap added to an existing movement.
To create something new, in this marketplace, is akin to climbing a mountain with no technical equipment whilst suffering vertigo; giddy-making. Balance is essential. Balance is also part of what makes a great watch, where technology works with design. A delicate balance of power, the energy it takes to run the watch, and the design. The more features added the more energy is needed to run the watch, so the more the design must be balanced.
Think of a simple analogy of a car, if you have air conditioning turned up you simply use more petrol to power it, drive faster and again you need more power, more petrol. A watch with more complications is no different, all the added extras use up ‘petrol’ which needs to be built into the watch.
This means when a new mechanism is created it must go hand in hand with the mathematical and design process. This is a time-consuming, and expertise lead process. It still needs to be visually stunning and emotionally engaging, so this part of the design process is almost a philosophical act. A leap of faith is taken alongside expertise. And that is ultimately why it is rare. In order to defy the boundaries of the possible, you need to be creative yet technically expert.
It takes a bold bunch to change this rather conservative world. And Vanguart is just that. A new brand in the super lux marketplace, one that drives its offer via uncharted thinking, technical expertise and design that is completely outside of the box.
George Lois, Renowned Advertising Creative
Imagine floating above a Roman Amphitheatre and looking down into the tiered seating; see three circular rings driving the eye towards the centre where floats a flying disc.
Sounds magical? It was, but it also was an original design concept of a university graduate student.
A young watchmaker saw this design and the image never left him. So outstandingly different was it that the vision stayed with him. At the time he had no idea how he could turn that design concept into a watch; it seemed technically impossible. But a few years later and with more experience under his belt. He knew how it could be done.
Timing plays so well in creation, every idea, it is said, has its time. When a small group of watch enthusiasts got together this watch was taken from concept form into the most dynamic 3-D watch to hit the market in years.
Founded in 2017, this independent and bold watchmaking company Vangart is made up of CEO, Axel Leuenberger (former APRP R&D department), Chief Technical Officer, Jeremy Frelechox (APRP veteran of 15 years), Chief Creative Officer, Thierry Fischer (watch designer with contributions to several major brands), and President, Mehmet Korutürk (private equity), the team’s collective and broad experience resulted in a stunning start to the brand with the introduction of the Blackhole in 2020.
The Black Hole Tourbillon was not, in fact, inspired by an amphitheatre, but by spacetime, (mathematical model that fuses the three dimensions of space, one dimension of time into a single four-dimensional continuum), to be precise the concept of a black hole. An area in space where gravity is so strong nothing can escape its pull; be sucked in, just like this watch. Even with just one glance, you too will be pulled in.
Visually the face draws you in, it’s the first visual trick if you like. The curves of the case meet those of the dial with inside three ‘stepping discs’ that lower towards the ‘black hole’ centre. Here sits floating, as though levitating, the Tourbillon.
Three smooth, concave discs, ‘step downward’ The horological version of a musical ‘stepping base’. The face design draws the eye towards the centre bringing a dramatic visual crescendo.
The three slanted disks tell the time from the outer edge to the centre indicating the hours, the tenths of minutes and the minutes. Cleverly designed the movement and case are connected. There is a visual connection to every layer of the watch, from bottom to top, from back to front. As much as the front of the watch is visually dynamic, the reverse shows the inner workings of the mechanism.
The right side of the case features two crowns. The main crown serves for winding and time corrections. But unlike a traditional crown, it doesn’t need to be turned multiple times to change the time. The second crown, positioned on top, is used for quick-time correction and time zone function, acting in one-hour increments on the main disc. At 9 o’clock, there is a power reserve indication. Named the JOYSTICK, by the team it was designed in-house.
The height of the watch almost highlights the optical illusion of the ‘stepping down’ face, because it gives the idea that the watch is far deeper than it is. This vortex of three rings is 4 millimetres downwards, yet the dramatic design feels like it’s far deeper. Comprised of 775 components in total, the watch measures 12.55mm in diameter and weighs only 0.225 grams; when worn on the wrist the depth is only 10 mm.
The case of the watch is constructed as an exoskeleton to house the movement. Available in grade 5 titanium, 18k rose gold or 950 platinum. Finished with micro-blasted surfaces and polished bevels to accentuate its smooth curves.
There is a standard strap, made of rubber, but multiple options are available in leather. There is even a mechanism that allows the strap to be changed at the touch of a button, concealed on the back.
The choice of titanium as a material is still quite new in watchmaking but here it is utilised for its lightness and for its ability to take different coatings. Here yet again expertise comes into play because, as a material, titanium is very hard to finish well.
The watch as a whole in its visual capacity is rounded with softened angles. As though every sweeping curve is connected, the watch flows as if it were mercury rather than Titanium. But the design goes one step further in order to highlight its flowing sense; there are no visible screws or pins, emphasising its ergonomic feel.
Nothing was added for the sake of design it’s there to look stunning but to utilise its beauty as part of its mechanism to keep time. But the most amazing aspect is that the intricate decoration is part of the technical timekeeping. A coming together of two sides in watchkeeping merge. And ultimately this is why this timepiece is so spectacular. A unique piece in this marketplace; this fusion of design and technic, science meeting beauty.
When we think of the future we think of space as that’s how our minds work, and as space-age as this is, it also is rooted in heritage. Maybe it can be seen as a bridge between the two. The pioneering merger of a futuristic feel with the technical aspects of heritage watchmaking, whilst bringing new technology and design to the table.
At the core of the process is the wearer. That was what Vangart had in mind from day one. For all its design complications, what the wearer interacts with is pure simplification. The extreme technical work is just for the makers, the wearer has an emotive, elegant and user-friendly experience
Major challenges were faced in encapsulating the 775 components of this compact, portable, waterproof and dustproof work of art. The Vangart team knew taking a dynamic and non-produced idea would mean surprises along the way but the surprises and difficulties were turned into wins. As the brand has said ‘it makes the journey along the way more spicy’.
The team made optimal use of the most advanced technologies available, with experts called upon to guarantee the quality of the manufacturing of every component, whether metallic, mineral or synthetic.
Technical Specifications
Case 43mm diameter x 15mm height – “exoskeleton” case available in grade 5 titanium, 18k rose gold or 950 platinum, micro-blasted with polished bevels, sapphire crystals front and caseback
Dial/indications: PVD-coated grade 5 titanium disks, hand-painted indications, time display on 3 co-axial discs, semi-instantaneous time scrolling, reverse scroll indicator for countdown, power reserve indication by roller
Movement: calibre T-1701, proprietary, hand-wound, 775 components mainplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, 3Hz flying tourbillon, free-sprung balance with variable inertia, 42h power reserve
Strap: rubber strap with pin buckle matching the case material, other strap materials available on request
Availability: Each version (titanium, rose gold or platinum) limited to 8 pieces
Vangart’s Black Hole Tourbillion is quite the most remarkable timepiece. It is the remarkable details that turn this mechanical marvel into a vision that came from elsewhere.
We know that nothing can come back at us from a black hole in space, it’s technically impossible. Or is it? Like this watch, which initially seemed impossible to make, does exist. It shines new light onto this most prestigious of heritage industries but reminds us that not everything has been done. And at the end of the day, it takes mavericks, outside-of-the-box thinking and leaps of faith to bring something as wonderful as this to the market.
To find out everything you want to know about this watch company please visit Vanguart.com Here
If you enjoyed reading Originality Makes for The Mother of all Watches then why not read Love the Magnificent Art in Bruges here
