The Spring Summer 2018 menswear seasons makes its way over to Paris. This season we took a more visual approach to our post, showcasing many designers that showcased their collection at Paris fashion week, alongside a few designers whos work was showcased within the showrooms at Paris.
22/4 Homme by Stephaine Hahn
Clean lines and jaunty stripes meet the classic tailoring of 22/4 with the elegance of the sea meeting the sky in this playful new Spring/Summer collection, which calls to mind the nostalgia of the seaside experience. Nautical notions like eyelets, cords, draw the eye once more to the designer’s signature attention to detail. Graphic design elements, such as the exclusively in-house designed seahorse logo printed on silk and light shirting cotton, bring a touch of whimsy and sentimentality to the collection, recollecting the early swim experience of a German childhood.
In a majestic homage to the rare Kazakh art of eagle hunting, Les Benjamins explores the regal Mongolian sport for Fall Winter 2017-18. Inspired by the ancient ritual and its primal connection between man and beast, the collection charts a moving terrain across the steppes towards the Altai Mountains, in an elaborate patchwork of ethnic details and baroque-inflected sports finery.
By delving into this unique culture, an urban wardrobe emerges entwined with layers of craft. The collection elevated with a myriad of techniques, as thread embroidery, gold foil, photo-realistic historical prints and tapestry patchwork are combined across a warm, earthy palette of ochre, burgundy, navy, sand, crimson and gold.
Lucien Pellat Finet
Walter Van Beirendonck
A wardrobe of archetypes, made individual by diversions, disassembling’s and vacillations. The anorak, the perfecto, the track jacket, the chinos, the shirt and the running shoe. Volumes adapt on the body, ad personam. Lettering and geometry as the calligraphy of urban surfaces. The briskness of the digital thought blends together analogical traces.
Nylon, cotton, acetate, cashmere. The precision of the dynamic matter and the aristocracy of touch. The surprise of the delicate colour. The affirmative presence of black.
Freedom in approaching, volcanic and mercurial.
Exact and unrepeatable, as a DNA thread.
AMI Akexandre Mattiussi
AMI presented its Autumn-Winter 2017 collection at the Cité de la Mode et du Design.
Models walked under neon signs inspired by Parisian streets at night. Silhouettes mixed outerwear with timeless pieces, creating a modern and urban wardrobe.
Rebel fused with urban elegance: The Kooples keeps its rock n’ roll
melody and injects new harmonies with a nod to sportswear for the
Spring Summer 2018 Men’s Paris collection. Inspired by Jim Jarmusch’s
eclectic filmography, Alexandre Elicha, Creative Director of the Parisian
label’s men’s collection, imagines The Kooples man exploring a dress
code clearly tuned to the future. On that occasion the iconic logo from
The Kooples is turned upside-down, as a reflection embellishing the key
pieces of the collection: starter jackets, t-shirts or a wind breaker. This
new visual identity feels like an alter ego inspired by the 90′ skate culture
highlighting the revolution initiated this season.
Dries Van Noten
The collection picks up and develops the narrative arc of previous LOEWE seasons, bringing to life an eclectic array of ideas associated with life by the sea and an adolescent imagination assuming a series of characters, evident in creative renditions of archetypes —including shorts, tops and trousers— injected with an overt dose of sexuality and relaxed spiritual exploration. Classic wardrobe staples are reinterpreted with a fluid sensibility, as the LOEWE man enjoys showing more skin than in season’s past. A traveller at heart, memories and souvenirs collected along the way are artfully integrated into garments, adding texture, value and visual impact.
Comme des Garcçons
This Berluti collection then, is the story of a reinvented palette where traditional summer hues are seen through a modern and dynamic lens.
The perfecto has been refined thanks to an icy blue or milky white bonded leather lining. The raw seam finishes are softened by colouring the hems, a technique that brings to mind the leather savoir-faire of the Maison. For the Spring-Summer 2018 collection, the bomber jacket is made of Ottoman leather.
Arthur Avellano mainly works latex. Banned from the classical cloakroom, on the
border of the object and the fabric, its unseemly evocation because of its sexual
connotation is ideal to convey a message of insolence.
In collaboration with specialized laboratories, he inserts the originality of its brand in
an innovative textile research by developing its own material, a hybrid latex with
properties of use close to leather but which retains its texture, its fall and its unique
This game of feminine clichés is juxtaposed with a caramel, marine and cream palettes, stripes, polka dots, on large panama hats and sober fedora designs, as a twisted sign of classicism.
By questioning the relation between sign and signifier, between candy pink and futility, and by turning on their head traditional codes, a metaphor about the brand is also made evident: ultimate savoir-faire might come in the most unexpected shape.
Paul & Joe