In the Summer of 2024
By Jo Phillips
Can we really say it’s summer until fashion week has graced London? A new season means change and fashion knows this better than anyone. A whole host of designers you want to watch out for have been adorning the runways and demonstrating innovation and creativity in the world of menswear. Here is a rundown of some of the shows.
The image on left Sagaboi
Ben Broomfield
Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media
Nully Amiri’s opulent yet relaxed menswear echoes her family heritage and draws many references from Iran. Sumptuous devore-etched velvet is used for a stand-out suit and elsewhere heavy embroidery motifs are derived from traditional Persian carpet patterns. Fluid, over-sized shapes in muted tones of soft earth, slate and stone focus the attention on the layers of rich fabric textures that are integral to the designer’s process. Fringed detailing is used in homage to the renowned textile traditions of Iran, and to connect the designer with the dress codes and powerful influences of a country she left as a child and so is familiar yet distant.
Fusing city and country references throughout this playful, decorative collection, designer
Ella Dexter reflects on the nostalgic, lost delights of hop-picking for city dwellers. Inspired by family photos from the 40s, Ella references a personal archive and the tailoring of the times. Autumnal hues of rust and burnt orange reflect abundant harvests, tempered with shades of slate grey which recall city streets. Refinement rubs up against rustic in her refreshing and confident pieces. Clever, chunky hand knits soften and complement patterned surfaces derived from identity card motifs. Traditional wool and cotton cloth is celebrated alongside modern, richly tonal over-printed patterns.
Sam Donnelly-Boote’s uncompromising collection, Façade, reflects the nature and process
of the designer. Entranced by the delicacy, precision, and particularity of early 19th-century menswear, Sam explores the desired aesthetic and exacting silhouette of the time. Body insecurity drove the need to hide imperfections and so precise cutting and tailoring created ‘perfect’ but false silhouettes. Investigating the paradox of exposure and concealment, the collection features varying transparencies and weights of the finest silks and cotton in subtle shades of stone, ivory and white. Butter-soft goatskin and precise braiding are key highlights in this sensuous and bold statement.
Inspired by her roots in working-class Middlesborough, Mae Donahoe is passionate about tackling fashion industry pollution. All fabrics and trims used in her collection have been re-used and re-invented to create fresh, one-off pieces that draw nostalgic inspiration from the plush interiors of northern pub culture and social clubs. Referencing rich brocade curtains and pelmets, shiny fringing and even Brown Ale beer labels, Mae creates eclectic and edgy looks. Cropped, angular and irreverent shapes are used for jackets and trousers, sassy mini dresses are adorned with brass curtain rings and a brocade suit featuring chaotic fringe de- tailing are all in the mix.
Kelly’s Cellar explores Eliza Douglas’s complex relationship to Northern Ireland’s many facets and draws inspiration from the country’s strong textile heritage as well as the atmosphere of the old pubs her father loves to visit. Creating a rugged and romantic vision, Eliza celebrates the individualism of the men in her life who wear her beautiful, hand-crafted pieces with pride. A subtle colour palette evokes windswept, earthy landscapes. Richly textured pieces utilize donated fine linens from John England which are combined with deadstock fabrics and an innovative custom zero-waste yarn inspired by traditional methods of tweed manufacture.
Sculptural, crafted pieces create an arresting, opulent beauty. Hidden 3D printed prosthetics create subtly extreme curved silhouettes and ‘armoured’ metal adornments emphasize shoulders. A distinct persona is restrained both physically and metaphorically. Movement is suspended and controlled. Tones from pale ivory through to dark earth feature throughout. Softness is balanced with structure and punctuated with protruding metal closures. Striking sheepskin jackets form cocoons of comfort and protection, bolstering the wearer from outside forces.
Inspired by the effortless style of the late Jean-Paul Belmondo and the romanticism of 60’s French new wave cinema, designer Crow Main celebrates subtlety and detail in this mature, confident menswear collection. Infinitely covetable pieces evoke Parisian cool with a distinctively modern twist. Referencing vintage pieces to amplify the warmth of age and time, sun-faded effects are created using the distinctive Cyanotype process for scarves and a stand-out trench coat. Soft, rich fabric textures include baby cord, silk, wool, cotton, and leather in moody shades from bleached-out blue to darkest Oxblood. Understated motifs derived from antique French brooches and coins are echoed throughout this accomplished debut.
Accomplished, beautifully considered shapes and sharp detailing define designer Lottie Robinson’s infinitely covetable menswear collection. Tailoring with a twist takes centre stage and reflects the designer’s love and extensive research into powerful silhouettes of the 80s. Mixing in subtle references to her grandfather and a distant family connection to blacksmithing, Lottie employs a refined monochrome palette inspired by vintage photographs. Her skillful, sophisticated pieces are layered throughout with thoughtful, surprising, and considered features. Strapping on bags and ties derived from protective aprons softens precise cutting and adds delicacy to this consummate sartorial statement.
Designer Anna Rokusfalvy’s modern womenswear balances hand-crafted texture and fluid shapes. Ó, Ió, Ció is a tradition of the countdown to rural family holidays and evokes nostalgia for her homeland of Hungary. Anna’s pieces are informed by the country’s renowned ar-tisan heritage and the annual hedonistic joys of summer, family gatherings and folk customs. Traditional tapestry and crochet are re-invented. Tablecloths are utilized and beaded curtain room dividers referenced. A subtle colour palette reflects her study of a rich family archive of vintage photographs which inspires this polished collection.
Inspired by the powerful spirit of Emile Zola’s fictional character Nana, Nancy Stewart’s bold pieces reference Victorian and Edwardian dress codes which are re-invented in bursts of playful colour. Decorative cord detailing adorns a stand-out jacket and blazing shades of orange form extravagant bows on draped gowns. A dramatic, oversized printed Crane bird motif forms a personal link to family connections. Working with fabric directly to create 3D forms, Nancy’s expressive approach yields an uncompromising, opulent, and exuberant collection.
Jazz legend Miles Davis and vintage promotional posters have inspired Grace Tayo’s bold and colorful menswear collection, which embraces texture and toughness tempered with beautiful, soft innovative knits. Dazzling hues of burnt orange and clear turquoise are calmed with the darkest navy and pale sky blue. A vibrant geometric African printed textile is both a personal link to family and heritage, but also embodies the movement and energy of Jazz. Jacket and shirt staples are sharply re-invented with subtle twists and the designer’s craft skills are evident in her soft, sumptuously tactile knitted pieces.
Rebecca Bean Evie Cambell Iryna Chapska
Jaihu Chen Constantine Corney Serife Dacosta
Joana De Miranda Finlay Dugmore Cerys Gratton
Zuzu Haigh Hayden Hamilton Will Harding
Iiona Kavaliauskaite Alice Keech Tanya Kovatchka
Toby Lee Emili Lint Marina Lorenzo
Milagros Macri Orfei Shayla Mustafa Kanaris Oikonomou
Victoria Olejniczak Libby Perkins Hannah Preswell
Susanna Pugliese Maya Rutland Karin Safira
Azita Thanigasalam Maxime Van De Wiele Alex Vasiliou
Lauren Ward Finlay West Cameron Tau
Ravensbourne University London
The inspiration for this collection came from looking at what is happening in the world now, such as war, famine, climate change, etc. Further, she tried to imagine how it would look a better world where everything is balanced, and everyone is happy; starting to research, to read books and articles about utopian societies, movies and, from here, developed a collection which is named ‘The Tale of Tomorrow” which portrays an idealistic advanced world.
For the development of this collection, focusing on creating the shape and silhouette, seeking to express a modern look through organic shapes by experimenting with stiff paper, which also inspired me for fabric choice.
The collection weaves together the journey of Nepali and British upbringings, harmoniously blending these two vibrant cultures. It narratives stories from humble village life in Nepal to the transformative experiences of relocating to the UK. Furthermore, It encapsulates the essence of celebration, pride, and nostalgia, intricately merging Nepali heritage with the diverse experiences of growing up in London. Throughout the collection, textile techniques are utilized to express this fusion of traditional craftsmanship with a modern sensibility. The weaves symbolize traditional artistry, skilfully interwoven into contemporary shapes and silhouettes.
Unromantic Love This concept is based on a naive young girl confessing her love to her childhood crush. Her intense love for him drives her to conjure up an imaginary romantic fantasy about him in her mind. In retrospect, she realized, she was only hallucinating about her mysterious guy to escape and deny the reality of his cunning, lustful, manipulative, and sinister actions. The inspirational research and silhouettes came from the paintings based on Cupid & Psyche’s love story and Renaissance.
Lethargic that people experience at least once in their lives is inspiring to me. When I feel lethargic, I find to the place like couch, bed to get some rest. Lying down on a pillow with a duvet makes me comfortable. This collection shows a scene of life. About feeling lethargic and getting energy from rest and going back to life. Losing Energy from a hectic world – Take a Little Break – Get energy
Through this collection, people can feel comfortable and stable. People’s exhausted posture and resting places are the subjects of the data collection research. The focus of the collection is on silhouette details. The collection has draping details from the duvet’s crease when people cover it during sleep.
Racing is one of the most dangerous extreme sports in the world, they have to race under intense pressure to feel one with the car until they pass the checkered black and white flag at the finish line. Every race is a great challenge for a Formula One driver’s body. My collection is designed to express the state of mind of a Formula One driver in the race, every time when they turn a corner on the track, the strong lateral centrifugal force causes blood to flow to one side of their body
In collaboration with Aforce, renowned for their premium leather products, the “Beauty Behind the Madness” project takes a captivating approach to short-term escapism. This introspective journey delves into the birth of ideas while navigating the unexpected challenges of personal abandonment and self-discovery. The collection features deconstructed and oversized garments alongside meticulously crafted minimalist outfits, showcasing exceptional hand-finishing and gender-fluid silhouettes. Through intricate detailing and poetic tension, the clothing encapsulates the complexity of human emotions. With a focus on leather as a medium, the collection experiments with innovative techniques, breathing life into this tranquil yet darkly idealistic world of edgy rebellion and sophisticated elegance.
The inspiration for this collection came from a childhood passion and hobby of Hannah’s, dance specifically Ballet. The concept developed into looking at specifically men in the Ballet. This feminine concept was fused with the masculine sport of American football with the hard structured shapes and bold colours in contrast to the soft and elegant silhouettes and colours from Ballet. The research from these two juxtaposed sports inspired the textiles, silhouette, fabric and colour choice for the whole collection.
The development of silhouette involved deconstructing and manipulating both American football jerseys and ballet leotards. The textile development involved screen printing, laser cutting, and applying for numbers from American football jerseys in a new and interesting way as well as ruffles and gathering development inspired by ballet. The merge of these masculine and feminine sports created the menswear collection “ Boys Do Ballet”
“Otherworldly” is a collection derived from Welsh folklore and mythological creatures. Starting my graduate collection, they knew they wanted to pay homage to my Welsh heritage and share Welsh
folklore and conceptualize it my own way, they grew up on stories and myths about Wales and have always been inspired by the beauty of folklore and when it came to the collection, wanting to be able to tell a story throughout with each of the looks. They wanted to put my own spin on what these folklore creatures would wear and have fun with it.
Ecdysis: the process of shedding skin
My collection, Ecdysis, reflects on the growth of oneself and leaving behind a younger version. As a society, our surroundings and experiences contribute heavily to how we change. Portraying this by looking into different ways the earth erodes and changes over time and how we are connected to our environments. Using natural cotton Rope as a textile to demonstrate this movement in different silhouettes. When we lose sight of our surroundings it can heavily affect us. It is easy for days to pass without appreciating the little accomplishments that turn us into the new versions we are today. As her degree comes to an end, she believes her collection was the right moment to emphasize this.
This collection is named Loka Kya Kahinage, which translates to What will people say this is something South Asian children are consistently told to ensure the family is not embarrassed. This
was to bridge the Desi diaspora who are torn between not feeling ‘British’ or ‘Asian’ enough. As someone who does not understand my mother tongue well, wanting to use phrases that most people would understand, either from music or daily life. To emphasize the bridge between both cultures taking influence from early 2000’s British Asian music which was mainly produced by immigrants. Using traditional silhouettes from India made them contemporary for a Western and Eastern environment.
‘Evelyn’
Both her grandmother and namesake, Evelyn, the inaugural show by Emmy Banks explores her family heritage and connection to Nottingham lace. In her work, she juxtaposes the historically gendered fabric with the rich practicalities of classic British outerwear brands such as Barbour.
The involution of these typically estranged fabrics brings to light the industrial needle that so often helps to bring the patchwork of England together. Draping languidly upon these foundations Banks uses bold colours and repurposed silhouettes to give a playful nod to the nostalgia evoked through the process. Suspended between structures of gender, place, and generation, Evelyn delicately maps the fickle tributaries of life that have led the artist to where she is today
Power of Bloom: A Modern Womenswear Collection Celebrating Strength and Femininity
Designer Neda Vaitkeviciute unveils her womenswear collection, a captivating fusion of contemporary design and the timeless beauty of femininity. The designer took inspiration from the brave women who fearlessly defend their homes during times of war and takes guns to protect their country. It intertwines powerful aesthetics with gentle femininity. This collection seamlessly blends modern military uniform elements with the delicate essence of grandmother’s flower
gardens.
Power of Bloom is designed for today’s modern city women, with meticulous attention to detail. The collection showcases modern uniform elements juxtaposed against soft floral motifs, evoking the
grace and beauty of women. This collection holds dresses adorned with intricate floral embellishments, versatile jackets, and shorts that embody strength and elegance.
Each piece in the collection is a testament to the designer’s commitment to exceptional quality and
craftsmanship.
LEIN(N)WAND!
This collection focuses on re-imagining Austrian traditional textile techniques as well as details and elements of Austrian traditional men’s and womenswear garments, by viewing them through the modern lens of Bauhaus students in Germany in the early 1900s. The title of this collection is a wordplay of the Austrian term “Leiwand” [ˈlaɪv̯ant], a euphoric expression that is used when content or excited, and the word “Leinwand” [ˈlaɪn̯ˌvant], german for canvas.
Using deadstock fabrics by Burberry kindly donated to Ravensbourne by The Materialist as well as sustainable selvage denim sponsored by Candiani Denim.
In traditional Japanese aesthetics, wabi-sabi (侘寂) is a worldview centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of appreciating beauty
that is “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete” in nature.
She developed a collection of asymmetrically designed, deconstructed, and variously sized tailored jackets based on this subject. She likes to hand sew tailoring chest pieces and basting stitch details.
In order to make this collection together, Hai Li enjoys taking apart used clothing and draping new designs from them.
The inconvenience of the dress. Fashion is an art form, a fluid changeable medium, and a performance in itself. To make the viewer and person wearing the garment feel something, it doesn’t always have to be practical. The fabrications should move with the body and create compassion through this. Knitting the outer shell on a domestic machine and draping the perfect art forms, hand stitching every movement, creating her own world of craftsmanship of this flow state she finds herself in when creating as if she is painting this aerial abstract form, something she feels can sometimes be lost in the digital age. It’s a massive opportunity to feel so connected to her work, as the excitement is what pushes me to further experiment with the innovation of knitwear and sculpture
The Power of Dance
My collection is an investigation of my cultural dance, from the tribe Mbunza. The dance is part of my truth and also allowed me to grow in my understanding of where I come from. I learned the dance myself to create silhouettes for my designs, draping was used to layer unique shapes that formed on the body and showed movement, I combined these techniques to reinterpret casual wear and soft tailoring archetypes.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Courage and Determination
This collection showcases the transformation of Devadasis and the societal shift during the British Colonial era. Devadasis were women devoted to serving deities in temples, holding a respected position in society, and excelling in the dance form “Sathir Attam.” However, colonial rule led to their marginalization, forcing some into sex work for survival. A few courageous Devadasis persevered by teaching the dance forms. My collection portrays four inspirational women who embraced new paths to survive with courage and determination.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Klub Office
Luana draws inspiration from their community in the London kink scene, which is constantly fighting against losing their safe spaces and platform. The ‘Klub Office’ collection challenges society’s outdated views of the professional look, blending traditional suiting fabric with provocative latex to create shamelessly tongue-in-cheek silhouettes. Aimed at a future of safe authenticity, the collection celebrates uncensored sexuality and identity to evoke a level of sexiness that would raise eyebrows in the HR department.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Warmth Comfort Protection (WCP) was inspired by the concept of how growing up with eczema limited and influenced my style of clothing. I have researched my personal story and experiences as well as references to function, 2 purpose garments, crochet, streetwear, sportswear, and everyday clothes. Techniques seen will be crochet and technical fashion created by the process of crocheting, embroidering, and seam lines. My outcomes consist of oversized jackets, hoodies,
t-shirts, long-sleeved tops, cargo, gloves, backpacks, and headwear.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Beauty of the untouched world
My collection celebrates the often-overlooked beauty of fungi, with a focus on mushrooms. While they may be considered less attractive, mushrooms hold their own unique charm and play a vital role in connecting plants through mycelium roots. They also offer healing properties for various health conditions. Inspired by 1900s gardening outfits, my ‘shroom’ collection showcases the natural beauty of mushrooms through pin-pleat manipulation in both men’s and women’s garments.
©Maja Smiejkowska
The Reflection
Exploring the intricate relationship between evolving technology and its impact on human connection and intimacy. Inspired by interviews and the potential for intimacy with Artificial Intelligence, the designer in- corporates personal intimate photographs into textile and print designs. Combining organic and synthetic fabrics, symbolizes the convergence of human and technological elements. A key theme is mirror reflection, through intersecting silhouettes and exaggerated- ed draped shapes, questioning the extent to which technology mimics human traits.
©Maja Smiejkowska
The Mandjacos
My collection blends traditional and modern elements, featuring Bissau Guinea’s traditional fabric. By incorporating this fabric into my designs, I aim to celebrate my culture and explore its versatility. I want to challenge the perception of traditional fabric being limited to special occasions and make it fashionable for everyday wear, empowering young people to embrace their heritage.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Banjara
My goal is to promote confidence and self-acceptance for individuals, including myself, who may struggle with insecurities. Coming from Gujarat/ Rajasthan, I will center my collection around a tribe originating from these regions. By highlighting insecurities, the collection aims to empower people to embrace them and step out of their comfort zones. Ultimately, I aspire to inspire individuals to become their confident, unapologetic, and best selves.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Gender Limbo
This collection explores the mercurial nature of the non-binary experience, of being between two worlds, not considered enough to be a part of either, through garments that resemble distorted carcasses of identity; in which we must fit in order to belong.
Ultimately, identity belongs to the individual and anything other than true expression will eventually rot from within.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Yxng Minds Revolution
The collection explores my personal journey from secondary school and the impact of clothing on my self-perception. P.E. class was my favorite because I excelled in sports, thanks to my coach, and my grandad. It was the only time I felt “popular” as classmates would choose me for their teams. With this collection, I want to create a new uniform and P.E. kit that is comfortable, accessible, and stylish & that can also be worn as functional streetwear.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Moving Memories
This collection is a form of solution to the challenge of remembering event details. Drawing from my own experiences over the past three years of studying in the UK and childhood snippets, I incorporated key objects into each look. By wearing or moving with these objects, the collection aims to facilitate the continuous remembrance of cherished memories. The runway presentation celebrates the beauty and technicality of tailoring, incorporating playful shapes into the tailored silhouettes.
©Maja Smiejkowska
girlspeltbackwardsisevil
Reinventing previous outlooks that had been developed from experiences at Catholic school and growing up in Texas. To explore this, the positive aspects of this time in life have been accentuated and brought forward; drawing, internet friendships, and emotional music. Hobbies and pastimes that began as simple coping mechanisms have inevitably shaped how I see the world today. Exploring ways of finding happiness through means of escapism, and blending that with reality has led me to my final outcome.
©Maja Smiejkowska
The Masquerade
I am using mockery as a source of creating newness. Mirroring the way in which Montserrat’s masquerade evolved out of mockery yet is a fusion of African and European traditions. I intend to mock ‘smart-wear’ to mock Western notions of respectability and challenge our ideas of what is acceptable. Through the use of unconventional materials, silhouette, and proportion manipulation, I have explored mockery to answer the question; isn’t it the sweetest mockery to mock our enemies?
©Maja Smiejkowska
Bliss
Inspired by Hindu ancient goddesses that I grew up worshipping, 64 goddesses collectively called yogi- ni, Bliss collection aims to bring their strength, power, and body confidence to the modern woman. The silhouettes are inspired by sacral art & temple architecture with a modern spin making the wearer feel like a Contemporary Goddess Herself. This collection is a tribute to every woman, a tribute to all goddesses in this futuristic world.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Athleisure
My designs feature versatile athleisure with jersey materials, asymmetrical shapes, and multi-functional components like versatile hoods. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle is crucial for overall well-being, preventing illnesses, and fostering emotional stability. Embracing joyful activities and boosting self-esteem reduces medical costs, extends lifespan, and fulfills social obligations. These values inspire my designs, reflecting a holistic approach to fashion
©Maja Smiejkowska
Amaris
Based on personal experience, this collection delves into the essence of being human, addressing common insecurities. It tells a compelling tale of self-discovery and acceptance. Designed for individuals facing their own insecurities, it reminds us that imperfections make us unique, celebrating differences and embracing authenticity. Through expressive colours and prints, the collection empowers individuals to embrace their true selves. “The Perfect Imperfection” is dedicated to those who appreciate authenticity and find beauty in accepting imperfections.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Estate of mind
This exploration of adolescence utilizes unconventional materials to symbolize childhood liberation and exemption from societal norms. It captures the optimistic energy of adolescents through research on imaginative outdoor games. Street sports become artistic expressions, viewed as creative “art crimes” in the urban environment. The collection reflects suburban culture with a DIY feel— a heartfelt tribute to my younger self’s yearning for more and an exploration of upcycling and sustainability with discarded materials.
©Maja Smiejkowska
The Power in Softness
Showcasing the power of softness, highlighting the beauty and strength of femininity. Elegant & fierce garments, soft flowing fabrics, delicate details, & feminine silhouettes, The concept of divine femininity, emphasizes the importance of nurturing and caring for oneself & others. I would like to inspire women to embrace their femininity & celebrate their unique strengths and qualities. It is important to recognize that everyone, regardless of gender identity, possesses both masculine and feminine energy.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Metamorphosis
The inner child is part of a person’s subconscious mind that experiences and remembers their childhood moments and emotions, both good and bad. This Autoethnographic study explores societal expectations and cultural norms and their relationship to healing my inner child. In the African community, there is often a stigma surrounding mental health and healing. This can make it difficult for individuals to seek help and to heal from past traumas, including those with a wounded inner child.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Christiana Okwor
Rite Of Passage
My collection is based on the idea of Rite of Passage, and the process of moving from one place to another. My rite of Passage was my immigration from Nige- ria to the UK, and a significant aspect of this was the bags I used. In this collection, I have drawn inspiration from those bags and focussed on the significance of bags on different occasions. I have attempted to reinterpret the meaning of the bags by incorporating them into different garments.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Celebrating the African Woman
Inspired by the life of my grandmother, I am using this project to celebrate the African woman. I am celebrating her strength, courage, and determination by highlighting elements from my culture through which this attribute has been displayed, highlighting & showcasing the richness of African culture & educating the old and young. I gather inspiration from outfits worn by my grandmother, activities she carried out as a wife and mother, and cultural practices of her day.
©Maja Smiejkowska
Annie and Olive
Inspired by Jenna’s grandmothers, Annie and Olive, her collection combines knit fabrics and different textiles, along with brightly coloured fair isle knits and embroidery to honor her family. Jenna takes great joy in producing knitted textiles that are one-of-a-kind, individual knitted pieces.
Hysteria
Becky’s collection draws on her own research into the history of female objectification. She drew inspiration from both bondage wear and fetish culture, aiming to incorporate their aesthetic elements
into her designs. By combining these influences with historical silhouettes from the 1800s, she hopes to create a powerful statement through her designs that challenge traditional norms and revitalizes them in modern perspective.
The Degradation
This collection pays homage to resilient women from the Black Country who worked in the coal mines. Inspired by their workwear, Kitty merges hyper-femininity with masculinity, using their practice of tucking their long skirts into their jeans as a foundation. Using robust fabrics like denim and cotton drill allowed Becky to transform feminine silhouettes into sturdy, contemporary pieces whilst complex pattern manipulation creates layers, capturing the skirt’s graceful drape when tucked up. Workwear details like double topstitching add durability that womenswear often does not possess.
Collection 2000
Mandy has always been fascinated by the perfection of skin-on-skin body-fitting clothes, expressing the body in the best way to give a powerful silhouette and enhance the beauty of individual form. She aims to create garments that make everyone feel confident and comfortable with this extreme form-fitting collection. Her designs take inspiration from form-fitting garments in the 50s, along with subtle hints of bondage from Betty Page.
Legends of Tomorrow
Rui sought to create a dystopian world in a virtual adventure game through her collection. She was inspired by the characters from her favourite video games. She made collages of video game characters
and used that as the starting point for her design. She used wax cotton and denim in darker shades for the textiles and colours to emphasize the wild west theme and give the costumes a sense of wasteland.
Inspired by an old sepia photograph of Rae’s great-grandmother Maria on her wedding day led her to research and explore the silhouettes, draping and details of the 1930s. Taking inspiration from the renowned Carrickmacross handmade lace, the Irish ancestral home of her family, she wanted to explore, develop and translate lace into innovative knitted textiles using various yarn combinations and
knit techniques.
Layers of delicate mohair lace, draped with sheer viscose and complimented by chunky handknits create a look evoking the Golden Age of Hollywood.
Sculpted Fragility
A retrospective and reflective catalog of work that starts with the uncertainty and lack of stability the 2020s have posed on the average day-to-day.
A ready-to-wear womenswear collection that represents both modern ideals of womenswear whilst adhering to luxury traditions. The collection grapples onto strength and power through silhouette and shape. There are obnoxious shoulder lines, gigantic coats and sharp trousers whilst balancing softer silhouettes through relaxed oversized shirting, and silk tops.
Ennis has explored using precision and craft as a vessel to tackle personal and conflicting concepts, creating pieces that are sometimes autobiographical or are used to question taboo social paradigms.
The choices of where and how we wear clothes upon our bodies is a personal love letter to the objects we choose to be most intimate with. Through his collection, he has deconstructed queer kink practices and semiotics and applied esoteric references to historical tailoring techniques.
Dino
Ellen’s menswear ready-to-wear collection is routed in her childhood love of dinosaurs. Researching biological imagery and the paleontologists that discovered the fossils, she gained extensive visual and silhouette inspiration to put into this collection.
With a focus on fabrication and colour, she used methods such as cyanotype to create organic prints on my garments. Layering and cut-outs are also key features within the collection, taking visuals from fossil excavation.
Housekeeping
Inspired by the iconic film “Alien” (1979) and the life of eccentric brothel owner Cynthia Payne “HOUSEKEEPING” explores themes of gestation, birth and bodily autonomy.
For this collection, Arianna explored a wide variety of fabric and construction techniques, developing textiles reflective of the concept and inspiration. She utilised up-cycled vintage jewelry and reworked household items like vacuum pipes. Bridal buttons and corsetry detailing as well as the placement of cutouts and seam lines reference female reproductive organs and vintage lingerie
Lyra Liu
This design mainly reflects on human damage to the Marine ecological environment. In a series of outline designs, the main inspiration comes from the traditional fisherman’s clothing and the
form of fishing net weaving to design the oversize.
The main fabrics of this project are second-hand denim and pure cotton.
The use of second-hand denim can reduce the production and waste of denim, and old clothing can be effectively recycled. Additionally, pure cotton is made of degrading ingredients, durable and biodegradable so that it does not produce world waste.
Stretching Formalities
The collection from Yorkshire-born designer Venetia Williams explores the disruption of hegemonic masculinity within tailoring through both soft and hard delicate gestures manifest in silk georgette, resin-drenched wool, chainmail, pewter, and spot-welded aluminum. The collection was inspired by William’s conflicted ancestry of eccentric artists and utilitarian-military. Williams juxtaposes her maternal artists’ identities with the formality of her father’s military heritage.
Beyond the boundary
Wenhan’s menswear ready-to-wear collection was inspired by Takashi Kuribayashi’s art installation, which reminds him of the physical and
invisible boundaries between us and plants that keep us apart from each other, often surrounded by plants in our environment. Domestication adapts to the needs of human survival, but when people leave, plants gradually replace people.
Eve Parry
The abstraction of a modernist
A visual exploration of two of the most famous artistic movements of the 20th century: modernism and abstract expressionism. Looking
particularly at the artists Robert Morris and Barbara Hepworth, along with the choreographer and dancer Martha Graham, this collection focuses on shape and silhouette drawn from each movement, while
exploring the idea of sculpture and form, and how
they both coincide.
By combining and contrasting soft wools, and stretch jerseys with structured drills, the collection experiments with the idea of sculptural silhouette in all forms and how one is able to achieve the idea of sculptural dress through fabric choices.
Voices of Nature
A womenswear collection where print is the prominent factor, inspired by nature and mythologies that are explanations of nature’s forces. They embody what was unexplainable for our ancestors, thunder, sea, spring, and fertility. Monika’s designs incorporate rich textiles and patterns inspired explicitly by her Czech background as well as other European, South American and African cultures. The dresses have elements of fantasy and mythology, including silhouettes inspired by folk costumes, and geometric shapes inspired by trees and plants.
Dysmorphic
A collection focused on the abstract view of our bodies. Primarily silhouette-focused, Becky uses the female and male forms to create a collection that works seamlessly between genders. The intention of the collection is to bring body dysmorphia into physical garment form using outerwear and specific fabrications to create abstract shapes whilst still considering technicalities such as garment longevity and wearability.
The tender side of queerness
An exploration of the history and contemporary experiences of being queer.
Charles’ eight looks, made predominately out of repurposed or recycled fabric, draws on inspiration from Hal Fisher’s Gay Semiotics, a series of photos that documented the clothing and identity of the gay community in San Francisco during the 1970s. Charles portrays hidden meanings alluding to the history of queer dress throughout his own collection. Loops on which handkerchiefs can be tied are a feature of his designs, in reference to the Hanky Code, a system which features in Fisher’s photos where coloured handkerchiefs were shown hanging from pockets by gay men to indicate their sexual preferences.
Under new skies
Under new skies is a responsible project about designing for our future selves. What we do now will determine the skies we live under in the future. By learning from and experimenting with objects and practical garments that are already above ground, we can limit the waste we carry forward with us. It is an archival project, examining and dissecting construction and practicality, picking apart pieces with a purpose and reimagining them in a fashion context. It is to see beauty in functionality and garments that get overlooked when they are no longer required for or capable of their original manufactured purpose.
The beauty of degradation
Hammerwood Park is where the inspiration for Hester’s final collection began.
Once owned by the rock band Led Zeppelin in the 70s where it fell to ruins, it was bought in the 80s and began its restoration story. The colours and textures of the house inspired her experiments with textiles. As a natural fiber, denim was a perfect canvas to distress, dye,
and paint onto, while she also made use of deadstock yarn and repurposed denim where possible to be sustainable.
Charge of the Stripe Brigade
Takes inspiration from the striped graphic nature of the ceremonial military dress. It is an exploration into the fabrication and translation of military insignia on the female body. A strong feminine edge is merged with traditionally masculine tailoring. The collection is heavily
inspired by the Chelsea Arts Club Dazzle Ball 1919 where all the costumes were striped in honour of dazzle camouflage. Every garment within this collection has a stripe manually rendered into it through the means of pattern cutting or screen printing. This allows freedom to explore the unpredictable nature of dazzle camouflage against the precision and order of a traditional military stripe.
Armor
Armor was influenced by the environment and the close bond it shares with the military, particularly in terms of camouflage and concealment. This collection emphasizes anonymity by utilizing military techniques that serve as a protective layer.
Models of Diversity’s Fashion Revolution x London Fashion Week
Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images
In the glimmering spotlight of London Fashion Week, a breathtaking array of dresses that captivated the senses and celebrated individuality has indeed been unveiled. From avant-garde creations to timeless classics, the runway was a tapestry of innovation and craftsmanship. London once again proved its status as a global fashion capital, leaving us yearning for more such wonders in the coming seasons.
If you enjoyed reading In the Summer of 2024 why not read Fashions Newest Star here
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