Milan 2 SS20
By Jo Phillips
Taking inspiration from the ‘Queen of the jungle’ 1937 comic Sheena. The courage and perseverance of its heroine and the vivid colours of the tropical rainforest. Using soft fluorescent prints and embellishments along side Chen’s signature airy cuts are strengthened with multi-panel stitching and matched with hand-printed pleated fabrics to create a unique psychedelic impression.
Patterns decorate brightly coloured dresses, blouses, tops, trousers and skirts, paired with sweaters made of cashmere or weightless argyle-patterned chenille. Changing the connotations of underwear and using it as daywear was a major theme on this runway, featuring not only slip-dresses but nightgowns that look as precious and elegant as dresses. The feminine silhouette is enhanced throughout the collection with soft denim becomes a print interspersed with floral motifs, pleated lace enhance sensuality by playing with transparencies.
Inspired by Phoebe Waller-Bridge being recruited to polish the script of the new Bond movie and modernise the crude gender stereotypes for a post-Me Too audience. From three-piece suits to outfits combining Bermuda shorts, multi-pocket shirts in pastel colours, black and white scarves and micro-prints to long skirts in delicately coloured Paisley. Mara’s SS20 mixes tailoring with femininity.
The fictional encounter between the Sardinian shepherd Baingio and the Japanese princess Shiro’s love story lays the foundation of the theatrical performance staged by Marras. The fabrics, embroideries, inlays, designs, headpieces and colour combinations create a poetic harmony for the collection. Kimonos become the characterising element and are carefully revised, cut out and enriched by Sardinian embroidery. Winding and comfortable lines, soft outfits and feminine shapes that serve traditional Japanese prints, which are sometimes modernised.
Alberta Ferretti’s collection is dedicated to women of character that want to use fashion to stand out. Ferretti worked to modernise the show’s ’70s impulses – pairing a suede mini with striped button-downs. The stand out pieces were the ones consisting of signature crafty detailing, a whipstitched suede jacket, a butterfly motif slip dress pieced together from different colours of silk and the intensely embroidered half-shirts.
Leather was the weapon of choice for Bottega Veneta’s Spring 2020 collection. An array of leather coats, including ones in pastel blue, burnt orange and burgundy that differed in lengths and tailoring featured alongside a black jumpsuit. Most of the looks revealed a slice of leg, torso or midriff with the use of low, scooped and asymmetrical necklines and hems. Two metallic dresses in silver and rust broke up the monochromatic theme on this runway. Mules and chunky chains accompanied the looks, as did cross-body, clutch and shoulder bags.
The embroidered material from the Kalash community in the Chitral region of Pakistan was the centrepiece of Stella Jean’s SS20 collection. She had collaborated with the Chitral Women’s Handicrafts Centre to help support the traditional embroidery techniques and the people who had produced more than 4,000 metres of material for the looks. The silhouettes were cinched in at the waist and blue, white, dusky rose and red were featured throughout the pieces. Floral and geometric print and stripes were paired with belts that structured the outfits.
Simon Holloway, creative director called Agnona’s SS20 collection “an ode to Milan”. A nude colour palette was central to this runway, with different tones layered over another, however the infrequent pastel shade of blue and purple appeared. The tapered waists used, accentuated the natural, feminine silhouette, the voile complimented this by adding movement. Check and stripes were used sparingly and the occasional necklace and earrings featured, despite this the styling was classic and worked with the clothing.
Inspired by Manhattan, Boss’s SS20 collection was dedicated to suiting. White, pastels and a splash of coral coloured the runway, with top-to-toe tonal colour used in the pieces. Boxy and high necklines were paired with waist details to emphasise silhouettes. From leather to knit, the looks were structured and styled with belts, shoulder bags and oversized sunglasses.
SS20 collection from Armani was a sea of softly washed out blues and pinks, a colour palette that complimented the lightly-clouded projection on the runway. The shapes of the pieces were airy and light, moving with each step. Crumpled velvet jackets and loose pants gave looks a metallic sheen and flowing, translucent dresses carried the theme of lightness through the collection. Rounded sunglasses, bowler hats and micro-bags were matched with the pieces.
No 21’s SS20 collection was mix of floral, blues, nudes and neutrals, with different fabrics to match. Leather was worked into coats, jackets and short co-ords, with slits down the sides, revealing the flesh beneath. Swishy chiffon looked as though it was draped over the models, the fabric moved and shifted with every step taken. Microfloral was used for billowed-sleeved dresses and high-necked two-pieces. The styling was minimal with a few bags featuring and models having slicked-back hair.
DROMe’s SS20 collection was minimal, utilising neutral tones, reds and oranges. Boat necklines and collar-detailing were evident in the pieces, as was new takes on classics like the slip dress which had been revitalised with copper stitching and slits to the thigh. Leather, netting and knits were combined to create these looks that were tied together with square-toed heels throughout.
