A Mycelium Moment

By Jo Phillips

Mycelium is a root-like structure of a fungus consisting of a mass of branching, threads. It has interconnecting powers, relaying messages through a magical underground structure, allowing trees to reach out to each other when either they or their young need help or are sick. So at the end of the day of 15th of March, in Brooklyn NYC, the glitterati made their way to an abandoned warehouse filled with piles of mulch. Why? because mulch is where mushrooms grow (a fungus of course) and communicate and being as that was the starting point for the Alexander McQueen A/W22 catwalk show the set bought the idea to life.

As ever a McQueen show is an occasion a moment, a valued buzz in and out of the world of fashion, especially as this season (like last) they choose to show their collection away form the mainstream dates, after all as a brand they stand alone a very singular point of view. As ever the show pulled no punches.

Somehow from darkness comes light, after all from damp wood grows divine, beautiful, delicious of even poisonous mushrooms and that felt like very much the juxtaposition for the collection. Signature Lee McQueen (who pass in 2010) the originator of the brand, shone through from the heavens above via his muse and now head of design, Sarah Burton.

From dark to light, from black to bright colour, from matt to shinny via tight clean tailoring to bold louche gowns; each garment sang its’ part in a song of opposites.

Traditions were adhered to, DNA was as ever, deeply embedded but with the freshness of vibrant colour. Slashes through garments, leather and other rock and roll elements were at play against the puff of ballgowns.

Poly Faille, leather, wool mohair, knitwear, denim and lacquered lace where the fabrics of the season with the details being spray paint, intarsia knits and asymmetric hem lines.

Many hints of the past sitting against the newness of now and of Sarah another part of what made the juxtaposition so key in this show so much of a ‘moment’ for those lucky enough to be there in person, yet so many were there in spirit watching live from around the globe.

We will of course keep you updated through the season on all news form the designer and find more information and watch the whole show at AlexanderMcQueen.Com

If you enjoyed reading A Mycelium Moment then why not read A Fashion Continent Here.

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