WATER: MMFW SS16

By Jo Phillips

Milan’s Men Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016
From June the 19th to the 23rd- Milan held Men’s fashion week. Over 40 catwalks and countless showrooms were revealed for menswear’s trends for the up and coming spring summer 2016. Traditional Italian elegance and handmade quality is always a guarantee, but now fashion brands are starting to become more daring in their collections. There is an important aesthetic rejuvenation of this style which is a big attraction for buyers and the press. From high couture and neo-romantic looks to a more comfortable style like sandals and sneakers, the word freedom is key this season. We look back to the 70’s whilst taking a detour straight to India, China and the far East. The main point is the integration of several elements from the past as well as cumulating elements taken from contemporary trends in a dialectical synthesis.

ANGELO SERGIO SANTONI

 

A histrionic and maverick style is illustrated by Angelo Sergio Santoni. The garments are sewn with old wooden looms, giving the collection a charm of another era. The main themes are: Charlie Chaplin, who is recognizable by his iconic bowler; the Mad Hatter inspires quirky kaftans and lastly Native American inspired colored feathers and beautiful printed fabrics.
BRIONI
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Sartorial purity and structure live side by side with fluidity and lightness in Brioni’s collection. Brioni draws inspiration from architect Carlo Scarpa and his passion for historical Venetian aesthetics; and from modern day Japanese culture. Tailored suits are decorated with artistic brushstrokes which are inspired by Venetian glass paintings.
The parkas are made from high-tech, parachute-thin Japanese Nylon. The colour palette is very rich in this collection. It’s veers from: cadet green, sage, pavilion blue, royal blue, sapphire berry and peacock and then eventually disintegrates into darker nuances like steely grey.
ELEVENTY
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London’s 1950 figure the ‘teddy boy’ has largely influenced Eleventy’s new ss16 collection.  Dressing well, always and everywhere” is the collections motto as it seeks to combine both elegance and comfort together. The attire is made up of drainpipe pants, vest and waistcoats. It is available in a wide variety of fabrics from self shade camouflage to pierced leather and denim.
The ‘metal’ trend kickstarts this collection with: biker jackets in washed black nappa, leather shoes, large backpacks and bags, chains and jewels made out of volcanic stone encrusted with gold and silver. Eleventy wants his man to be classy even while he travels and it’s been made possible, thanks to the No Iron range. Also the fitness proposals are beautifully detailed. We can’t forget to mention the excellence of Platinum collection that is made according to the Neapolitan tailoring tradition.The colours palate is mostly black, sunny red and orange, classic beige, camel, dark brown, dark blue, military green also through to melange grey and blue for the fitness range.
FILLING PIECES
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Filling Pieces’s designer Guillaume Philibert brings an addition to the collection inspired by his childhood passion for basketball shoes. His construction of leather and fabric is executed in an innovative way, bringing together bright colours to contrast a mono pallet. The handmade shoes are made from premium woven leather.
ECCO LEATHER x THE LAST CONSPIRACY
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The last conspiracy is a leading Danish brand that contributes to the making of high quality artisan footwear. From the collaboration with the Netherlandish tannery Ecco Leather comes a special sneaker ss 16 collection. The details boast a hand-picked aluminum tanned cow leather, sewn by skilled local craftsmen. Each pair of shoes is handmade and has had a lot of extreme attention paid to it. The sole and the upper parts enable stability for balance. Each sole is meticulously moulded onto the last one, and it is manually assembled by injecting high-tech tactile rubber. It is scrupulously shaped with the help of its fixed mould.
MISSONI
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Missoni takes us on a thrilling journey to the beautiful country of India. The soft tailoring, relaxed silhouettes, featherweight fabricsas delavé linen and cotton crepes illustrates the functionalistic, West’s approach to  Eastern adornment and craft. The beautiful bright colours used are indigo, emerald, vermillion, jodhpur blue, and jasper to set the scene of India. This collection commemorates the Missoni’s collaboration made with the historic luggage maker Globe-trotter which led to the birth of limited edition artisanal luggage pieces.
PRINGLE OF SCOTAND
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Pringle of Scotland has brought to SS16 cut glass suits, refined with elegance and timelessness. The iconic brand of Scottish knitwear industry has performed at galleria Sozzani.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
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Eclecticism was in Ferragamo’s state of mind whilst creating this collection. The extravagant convergence of signs, luxury materials, geometric and organic textures are balanced but breezy in an attempt to emphasise a nonchalant attitude.
Geometric tailoring lines oppose exotic materials and prints.  Pinstripes, high-waisted trousers with a razor line tailoring contrast greatly to funny raffia embroidered figures of cactuses and monkeys. It’s a refreshing twist to structured styles, especially the short jackets and cotton shirts with broad stripes and the innovative straight raincoats made out of dry wool suits.
UNIFORM WARES
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 The timeless accessory is a man’s best friend. This brand leaves it’s mark on the quartz watch industry, making it stand out as a minimalist piece of elegance. The c-line collection is a disruptive, contemporary interpretation of classic dress watches.
The M-line stands out for it’s symmetry, proportion and legibility.
VERSACE
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Versace boasts colourful silk scarves sewn together like desert sails to evoke the scene of an exotic market – a location for Versace’s ss16 collection runaways. This collection has the air of the western traveller. The collection offers an exotic blend of culture and urban desert, where the traveller dons fine knits, long spring coats with oversized pockets to symbolise a mirage. The color palette ranges from dark shades of brown to bright red, deep purple and royal blue and tie dye is used to represent a desert camouflage.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
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A marine club house atmosphere surrounds Zegna’s ss16 collection. This is where sophisticated urban tailoring meets the world of surfing to achieve a sense of open air freedom and fresh energy. The materials used are water repellent nylons, printed cottons, jersey and iconic techmerino. Zegna also matches monochromatic black, white and blue with high-impacting insertions of pink, mandarin, royal and titanium metallics. “City To Surf” is the fashion show’s state of mind, a perfect combination of wind, water and waves and with a dash of Wall Street attitude.
ANTONIO MARRAS
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From here to eternity…
…an old man named Darrell used to say there are only three kinds of men: the ones that live in front on the sea, the ones that venture into the sea, and the ones that are able to come back from the sea, alive…
                                                                     Novecento, Alessandro Baricco
The fascinating deep relationship between man and the sea is reflected through to Marras‘ ss16 collection. A series of stripes, microprints and drawings appear in this collection as well as tropical Hawaiian prints, peacoats, uniforms, sailor shirts and Bermuda shorts appearing in the collection. Several elements are perfect to dream off far to undiscovered horizons like Achab, Danny Boodman TD Lemon Novecento, Gordon Pyn, Ulysses and Robert “Prew” Prewitt who fought in Pearl Harbour to be remembered from here to eternity…
A colour palette uses blue navy, light blue, deep and military green, mud and ice grey to stay in line with the theme of sea. The real men of Marras must be rigorous, synthetic, linear, simple and essential like the collection itself.