Exposed; The Scent between Words
By Jo Phillips
“she walked on, between kaleidoscopic peonies massed in pink clouds, black and brown tulips and fragile mauve stemmed roses, transparent like sugar flowers in a confectioner’s window – until, as if the scherzo of colour could reach no further intensity, it broke off suddenly in mid-air.”
from: Tender is the night by F Scott Fitzgerald
What a remarkable paragraph; ones that sums up colours and fragrance as well as the sense of the sun on the skin.. almost like a Monet painting of ‘candy/ sugar /sorbet ‘colours. So then it makes sense why a Perfume brand may well use this as a creative starting point for a fragrance brief. Well in fact Miller Harris have done just that but to make it even more of an interesting project they gave these few lines to two perfumers..thats it; no other brief, no specific client, no intended notes, no commercial boundaries just undulating pure creativity for two bright lights in the perfume world Bertrand Duchaufour and Mathieu Nardin,
The end result? Actually two very different takes; Tender and Scherzo, and although they are very different they can almost be viewed as a day and night if you like of the same scene.
Scherzo – Mathieu Nardin
The word actual is a primarily a musical term which means a shift to something light and playful in a second or third movement of a piece of classical music but can also refer to a person or moment in general. A word used here to show up almost a wild flower garden, in a sugar floral day height of sunshine, with a modern take on vintage notes of powdery rose and peony,
Opening up with blood orange tangerine, bright purple davanna and golden olibanum resin followed by white and yellow flowers rounded off with vanilla and Oud to carry the full boded fragrance with you all day.
Top Notes: Tangerine, Davanna
Heart Notes: Olibanum, Narcissus, Pittosporum, Dark Rose
Base Notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Oud
Tender presenting the same garden in the coldness of night.
Tender. Bertrand Duchaufour
A skilful creation of green sparkling floral, spice notes which move to darker florals, water and leather then rounds off with resin and woody notes.
This perfume is one for those that certainly love the full body of a Chanel no 5 or such classics, it’s rich and sumptuous and is the darker of the two fragrances and interestingly is reflected in the packaging
the wonderful dripping floral motif is set on white for Scherzo and on darkest midnight blue for tender
Top: Pink Pepper CO2, Aldehydes, Green Hyacinth Note and Cinnamon
Heart: Black Tulip (Tulip + Ink), Leather, Saffron, Geranium Cyclamen, Incense Oil and Rose Turkey Absolute
Base: Amber, Cedarwood, Myrrh Absolute, Patchouli Fraction, Frankincense Resin, Vanilla Absolute, Storax Resin, Sandalwood and Musk
Available soon at Miller Harris