Fantasy: Pre-Fall Review

By Jo Phillips

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If December quietened down for some and Christmas provided some much needed respite, then it was well timed as January has been ablaze from the word go. LC:M has been and impressed with some well received collections, followed by more shows and trade shows in Paris and Milan. Berlin fashion week has been and gone and as we speak  Paris Couture week  is showing the world how bespoke and opulence is really done.

In between the lull in December and all of the January madness though, we have had Pre-Fall drop and I wanted to take some time to review some of the collections that we really loved.

The year of the Snake was last year but it is in 2014 that Christopher Kane is embracing everything snakelike, specifically the boa constrictor. Marni opted for abstract prints and lots of fur and Jeremy Scott presented his first collection for Moschino (was there ever a more perfect pairing?). Kenzo was influenced by NorthWest America and in turn Chanel’s collection was named ‘Back in Dallas’ and so inspiration came from the South! Peter Jensen set his quirky vision firmly in the upper echelons of American society with  his collection based on  tragic socialite Sunny Von Bülow.

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There is not a single outfit in Kenzo’s collection that I don’t covet. Each piece is striking but not overstated. Assymetrical lines in tops and skirts, beautifully tailored suits and brushed wool jackets. The patterns are inspired by TV static, American diners and black and white blocks, and the colours! Well  I can only describe them as delicious, Citrus yellow, Kenzo green, Fuchsia and Sapphire.

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Chanel also play with patterns, navajo prints, stripes and houndstooth all appeared on the runway but the clear trend that Chanel is leading with is fringing. It was everywhere on jackets, skirts, bags and ponchos.

Fur made an appearance in the Chanel show but it is Marni (seen in the title picture), who has shown the most fur with collars and stoles and trims evident throughout the collection.  Marni also showed exciting patterns.  Like Kenzo they were playing with the abstract but they also have wallpaper style prints. But when I say wallpaper, I mean the exquisite type you would likely see on a feature wall in a suite at Villa d’Este in Lake Como.

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Christopher Kane is a self confessed ophidiophobe and for those of you that aren’t well versed in phobias, to be an ophidiophobe is to be terrified of snakes. Of course this is not the first time Kane has referenced snake skin his collection, but this collection certainly does not feel repeated. This time oversized elasticised, snake-printed bands are crisscrossed over short dresses, snake print is on chiffon and even the colour palate has been influenced by his fear with serpentine blues and greens although Fuschia pinks were also present here. The other big abstract print is molecular both modern and slightly retro, it is bound to be repeated and copied further down the fashion chain.

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Jeremy Scott’s first collection for Moschino certainly did not disappoint and he has without doubt created the next it bag! This collection is playful and easy to wear with oversized and embossed t-shirt dresses, Gold Moschino letters hanging off tops and THAT leather jacket handbag. Scott has without doubt put his stamp on the fashion house whilst clearly respecting the aesthetic of the brand.


Last but not least Peter Jensen, a firm favourite and previous editor of .Cent has given us a fun and wearable collection. The now famous bunny took on a new look after Jensen collaborated with William Broome to create a wide eyed cartoon version of the fluffy eared motif. Prints are letter based, although there is also a deer and a floral print in the collection.  Fitted puffer jackets and corduroy trousers also feature here.

So to round up, the trends are allowing us to dress for warmth, every collection has a take on outdoor coats. Fuchsia and Sapphire blues  are popular as is denim seen comprehensively at Chanel.  But it is still prints that are a safe bet, snakeskin and abstract prints are the clear winners and as I said before, wait for the ensuing waters down and copied molecular prints to explode and be copied everywhere.

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