Function:The Lightest Touch

By Jo Phillips

Perfumes (especially driven by niche labels) go through trends. Sometimes it’s all about Oud or maybe leather, then the new trend could be smoke or the return to florals. One of the big trends for S/S 17 is definitely a lightness of touch…well the olfactory equivalent. Light, fresh, clean but NOT simple… this new breed of fragrances are deceptively simple, but may well be complex in their make-up and layering.

As the world becomes more and more confusing, somewhere on a probably subconscious level we crave simplicity, ease and quiet. To be fair in its own way the fashion industry’s reply was the birth of ‘Normcore’ a few seasons ago (think of a stripped back wardrobe made up of non-logo well-considered shirting, denim or tailored trousers, cashmere sweaters, plain jackets etc).  But don’t worry; the ‘Normcore’ perfume equivalent is not ‘Boringcore’.  It’s a simplicity that is all about letting the personality shine through.  Less ‘noise’ if you like, more power.

So the crop of new launches for spring ’17 seem to split very much into two key areas, light simple clean or loud full and rich.  So for spring, let’s introduce you to a few of the new, simple, clean and modern feeling scents. Some just out some that have been around for a few seasons.  Fear not: we will of course let you know the new headier ones later in the season for those that prefer something a little more full on.

Creative director Jo Phillips

Photographer Jeremy Coleman

Shot one:

Crockery White bowl – Heal’s
Woods of Windsor, Lily of the Valley – EDT
White Lily, Mimosa Leaf, Lemon and Orange for its top notes. Added notes of Lily of the Valley, Geranium and May Blossom, with a  base of Sandalwood and Amber Musk.
Bobbi Brown, Beach – EDP
This sexy and fresh perfume is infused with a blend of Sand Jasmine, Sea Spray and Mandarin
Molton Brown, Rose Absolute -EDT
Top notes of Blackcurrant, Pink Pepper and Raspberry, with heart notes of Rose, Violet Leaf and Geranium, topped with base notes of Patchouli, Labdanum and Vanilla.
Heal’s Mervyn Gers, small bowl
Neom, Energy Burst – EDP
This natural fragrance blends the freshest Grapefruit, with Sparkling Lemon and a hint of Rosemary.
Philosophy, Pure Grace – EDT
This crisp fragrance is infused with Bergamot, Water Lily, Lavender, Jasmine, Cool Greens and Musk.
Heal’s Standardware cup
Yardley, Lily of the Valley – EDT
This feminine fragrance with Fruit Pear accords in the top notes, a Floral heat of Lily accord blended with Freesia in the heart notes and enhanced with a pretty Musk base.
Standardware tall cup – Heal’s
Calvin Klein, CK2 -EDT
This ‘gender-free’ fragrance is a combination of Wasabi, Mandarin and Violet Leaf in the top notes. With Wet Cobblestones and concrete accords are mixed with Orris root and Rose Absolute and Placed on a base of Vetiver, Sandalwood and Incense.
Heal’s Crockery salt and pepper shaker


Shot Two:

Mizensir, Mythique Vetyver
This stylish perfume hosts a combination of Calabrian Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon, with heart notes of Bourbon Geranium and Labdanum, topped by a dense and smoky feeling of enhanced Papyrus, Haitian Vetiver and Patchouli for the base.
Heal’s Crockery White bowl
 Etat Libre D’Orange, Rien,- EDP
This spicy yet musky perfume is infused with Incense, Rose, Leather, Iris, Cistus, Oakmass, Black pepper, Aldehydes, Cumin and Patchouli.
Maison, Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Celestia – EDP
A wonderful coming together of air and sea,  lime and cool mint, meets blackcurrant and mimosa blossoms from Provençe.
Heal’s Mervyn Gers small bowl and  Standardware tall cup
Maison, Francis Kurkdjian  Petit Matin -EDP
This fragrance allows you to rediscover the streets of Paris with its top notes of Litsea Cubeba, Lemon from Calabria, with its floral heart notes of Lavandin from Provence, Orange Blossom and Hawthorn accord. Ending with a base note of Musk and Ambroxan.
Mizensir, Musc Eternel – EDP
This musky yet sensual fragrance is infused with top notes of Bulgarian Oil and Paradisone, with a light but striking heart note of Iris Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute and White Hawthorn that slowly allows the base notes of White Musk and Tonka Bean Absolute to rise up.
Agonist Parums, Floralust-Perfume Spray
Ethereal and Floral, the top notes are Pink pepper, Bergamot and Freesia; heart notes are Rose, Magnolia and Ylang Ylang; base notes are Jasmine Sambac, Cardamom and Musk.
Jo Loves, Mandrine -A Fragrance
This citrus cologne features, Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Petitgrain and Lemon Tree Leaf
Heal’s Standardware cup


Shot Three:

Heal’s  Mervyn Gers side plate  and Crockery salt and pepper shaker
Clinique, Happy Heart – Perfume Spray
This floral and warm fragrance is constructed with a mixture of Mandarin Orange, Water Hyacinth and White Wood.
Mervyn Gers, small bowl, Heal’s
Coach, New York – EDP
This fragrance opens with Sparkling Raspberry for its top notes, a Creamy Turkish Rose for its heart notes, eventually drying to a Suede Musk base note.
Standardware cup – Heal’s
Christian Dior, J’adore – EDT
This musky floral fragrance opens with top note Tuscan Iris, followed by a sensual heart note of Damascus Rose, drying down with a dense and powdery base note of White Musk.
Crockery White bowl – Heal’s
Standardware tall cup – Heal’s
Yardley,  English Dahlia – EDT
Opens with Citrus notes or Fresh Neroli and Apple, moving on to a sensual heart, with blends of Dahlia accords with Rose and Peony, finishing with a base of Patchouli, Cedar and Musk.
Chloe, Love Story -EDP
This floral fragrance infuses a top note of Orange Blossom, heart note of Stephanotis Jasmine and finishing with a base note of Cedarwood.


Shot Four:

Clean, Citron fig – EDP
Warm fig blends with ginger and lemon. The heart is Mandarin with a combination of Cardamom and Mint, topped with a base of Sandalwood, Cedarwood and Musk.
Mervyn Gers side plate – Heal’s
Mizensir L’envers du Paradis – EDP
Top notes are Pink Pepper, Calabrian Bergamot oil and Cascalone. With a heart of Green Cardamom Oil from Guatemala, infused with a spicy and sensual base of Ambrox, Clearwood and Muscenone.
Heal’s  Standardware tall cup and Mervyn Gers, small bowl
Christian Dior, Eau Sauvage Cologne, Natural Spray
A burst of Pink Pepper for its top note, with a vibrant heart note of Calabrian Bergamot, finishing with a base of Haitian Vetiver.
Prada, Mimosa – EDP
Top notes are Mandarin and Anise, ending with Rose Absolute and Mimosa.
Valeur Absolue, Vitalite- Parfum
An elixir of Acerola from Brazil, Buchu from South Africa, the sweetness of Magnolia, Patchouli and Cedarwood.
Heal’s Standard wear cup,  Crockery salt and pepper shaker, Crockery White bowl and Marvyn Gers cereal bowl
Prada Vetiver -EDP
Introducing the wearer with Vetiver ad Tarragon, the fragrance gradually warms into Madagascan pepper and Purple Ginger.
Diptyque, Eau Dominotee – Eau perfume multi-use fragrance
Top note of Grace of Rose, heart note of Foliage and a base note of Patchouli.


Shot Five:

André Putman,  L’original – EDP
Damp Wood is mixed with the heart notes of Coriander Leaves combined with a touch of Grey Pepper, with a base note of Water lily.
Heal’s Mervyn Gers side plate, Mervyn Gers, small bowl and Crockery salt and pepper shaker
Tom Ford, Fleur De Portofino – EDP
A floral accord with notes of White Acacia, Honey and Citrus.
Tom Ford, Vert De Fleur – EDP
This classic perfume is a blend of Galbanum, Hyacinth, Petitgrain, Iris Butter, Oakmass and Vetiver
Heal’s  Crockery White bowl and Standardware tall cup
Avery – A Perfume Spray
lemon and lime, sit with incense and black pepper, with a base of white musk and vanilla.
Heal’s Standard wear cup
Kilian, Lemon in Zest – EDP
The top is zesty Lemon from Italy with Mandarin. Sensual Vanilla from new Guinea and Orange Brandy. With a base note of Indonesian Patchouli and Haitian Vetiver.


Shot Six:

Heal’s Mervyn Gers side plates and Mervyn Gers small mug

Frederic Malle, Rosa Rugosa
Dry, cold, almost astringent-like scent of these wild rose bushes
Tatine,  at Curious egg One Rainy Wish
Pairs scents of Blue and White Roses and Summer rain.
Tatine,  at Curious egg Forest Floor
Rain Soaked Ferns, Damp Wood, Stems and Green Leaves. The Very Nature- Enchanted Forest
Heal’s Standardware tall cup, Crockery White bowl and Standard wear cup
Tatine,  Garden and Forest infusion collection  at Curious egg
Mervyn Gers, Cereal bowl
The Very Nature Enchanted Forest
Pairs Green Leaves and Foliage
Orla Kiely – Earl Grey
Blends Bergamot, Clary Sage and Orange Peel with Smokey Black Tea


Shot Seven:

Heal’s  Crockery White bowl and  Standardware tall cup
Prada Fleur D’oranger – EDP
Opens with Dandelion Leaf, with a note of Fresh Green and heat from Lemongrass. Underlined with Tomato Vine and a Zing of Juniper, and Fig for an earthy base
Heal’s Crockery salt and pepper shaker and Standard wear cup
Shay and Blue – Dandelion Fig – Natural spray fragrance
Fig and dandelion leaf are blended with natural notes of lemongrass, tomato vine and juniper
Byredo – La Tulipe – EDP
Top notes of Rhubarb, Cyclamen and Freesia, heart notes Tulip and finished with a base of Blonde Woods and Vetiver
Penhaligon’s, Alizarin – EDP
Top nots of Mandarin and Narcisse, a rich heart base of Tuberose Orris and Mimosa is greatly complimented with a base of Oud, Leather, Olibanum and Vetiver
Heal’s  Mervyn Gers, small bowl and Mervyn Gers, Cereal bowl
Prada Amande, EDP
This perfume features Almonds infused in Bergamot Water underlined by Tonka Beans with a bitter Almond Oil.


Shot Eight:

Fresh, Cannabis Santal
A woody fragrance  with notes of Bergamot, Brazilian Orange and Black Plum; heart notes of Patchouli, Cannabis Accord and Rose, with  a base of Chocolate, Vetiver and vanilla Musk
Heal’s Standard wear cup
Byredo  Cotton Poplin
These handmade candles open with a calm Blue Chamomile, centred with Linen and White Cedarwood before finishing with a Sweet Musk base
M & J London, Left Bank Martini – Elderflower, Lemongrass, Gooseberry and Juniper
Heal’s Crockery White bowl  and Crockery salt and pepper shaker
Cire Trudon– l’admirable
Bitter orange, lemon-yellow, limette, litsea cubeba. Heart: lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, orange tree (petitgrain). Bottom: balsamique with vanilla & musk
Heal’s  Mervyn Gers, small bowl, Mervyn Gers, Cereal bowl and Standard wear cup
M & J London, Samadhi – Kerpura tulsi and rose
A combination of Kerpura, Tulsi and Rose


Shot Nine:

Heal’s Standardware tall cup
Jo Loves, Lemongrass
This candle has a sweet citrus scent of freshly crushed lemongrass
Linari, Menta – Room fragrance diffuser
Combines fresh mint with Cassis, Bergamot, White Peach and Star Anise. With a heart note of Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Ylang Ylang, Freesia and Rosewood, completed with a White Musk, Sandalwood and Vetiver base
Heal’s Standard wear cup
Diptyque, Rosa Mundi Perfume Paper
The perfumed papers are inspired by and fully saturated with the Rosa Mundi fragrance. Damascena, the Damask rose, and Centifolia, the May rose. In the top note, currant and bergamot provide freshness, the lychee’s fruitiness complements their petals, and the geranium enhances their naturalness.
Heal’s Mervyn Gers, small mug
Diptyque Rosa Mundi
This candle offers a pairing of Currant and Bergamot in the top note, Lychee in the heart note, and Geranium for the base

Heal’s  Mervyn Gers, small bowl, Mervyn Gers, Cereal bowl and Crockery salt and pepper shaker

Orla Kiely Diffuser
White Geranium  blended with luxurious essential oils of eucalyptus and clary sage
Mini Moderns Darjeeling, tea and fig – reed diffuser
This diffuser is a blend of Tea with Green Fig and hints of White Pepper
ESPA,  Winter spice
This infusion of Ginger, Clove, Sweet Orange and Cinnamon is perfect for the festive gives this candle a nice warm scent for those cold winter months

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Shot Ten

Left, Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini  Right; Atelier Cologne Jasmin Angelique

It’s fair to say that Atelier Cologne has alone not just reinvented, but also rejuvenated the cologne market single-handedly.  The year 2017 will see the release of many a Cologne as this lighter way to wear fragrance is rapidly becoming de rigueur. The two fragrances below as of exceptional quality and scent. It’s worth keeping an eye out for the new breed of Colognes as many companies are taking the lead from Atelier Cologne and producing this style of fragrance.

Jasmin Angelique starts at the top with lemon from Sicily, Sichuan pepper from China, angelica from Siberia. This follows through with jasmine from Egypt, galbanum from Persia, and fig and at its base find incense from Somalia, white amber, tonka bean from Brazil.

Oolang Infini starts with bergamot from Calabria, Tunisian neroli, freesia with a follow through of oolong tea, jasmine from Egypt, and blond leather, with the scent’s base being tobacco flower from the Balkans, gaiac wood from India and musk.

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Shot eleven

Top:  Creed Pure White Cologne is a fresh, aromatic citrus fragrance for men and women from the Royal Exclusives Collection from Paris-based set perfume house Creed.

Top notes are Grapefruit, Lemon, Sicilian Bergamot.  followed by middle notes of Pear, Galbanum, Neroliwith the Base notes being Rice, Powder Notes, White Musk, and Ambergris

Bottom: Atkinsons Emblematic fragrance collection celebrates Atkinson’s first ever fragrance creation 24 Old Bond Street Eau de Cologne.  A true depiction of English elegance. Warm Cardamon meets Turkish Rose. The heart is made up of nuances of smoky, oak casked Whiskey and Black Tea, before a base of embracing Amber, Case Oil and Tonka Bean.

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 Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne  top notes from citrus fruit (bergamot and lemon), delicately underscored by an orange (neroli and petitgrain) and a rustic (rosemary) heart, complemented by base notes of cedarwood, sandalwood and myrtle (cedar, vetiver, musk and white amber) – creating an evocative freshness of an Italian garden, beside the clear waters of the Mediterranean, where lemon trees and orange trees burst with sunshine.


Roger & Gallet  Fleur D’ Osmanthus  Natural mandarin essential oil with  Orange zest  a middle of Osmanthus, Natural grapefruit essential oil and Neroli finally the base made up of Tonka bean , Sandalwood and Benzoin essential oil


Roger & Gallet  The Vert Collection Green tea Eau Fraiche Contains Green tea, lemons, and mandarin blended with Guaiac wood.

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Rituals Green Cardamom Fragrance sticks

Rituals  Eau Des Indes eau de parfum. A seemingly opposing marriage of fresh and warm, simple and generous, this perfume finds her true vocation in a loving herbal embrace that warms up with sparkling Ginger, citrusy Bergamot and breezy White Tea.

Rituals Samurai Candle fused with Bamboo and Cedar Wood


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