Hooray For Citrus

By Julie Jacobs

Vitamin C in skincare is not new. I recall my first experience using Prescriptives Vibrant-C Skin Brightening Moisturiser around twenty years ago. It contained iridescent and light-reflecting particles; blurring imperfections leaving the skin radiantly illuminated. And surprisingly the gentle smell of citrus was pleasant and not overpowering either. At the time this cream was innovative and a game-changer inspiring many imitators. When my models look required little to no foundation this was my first choice. Here we explore a little of how this Vitamin has become a staple in beauty; Hooray For Citrus.

Hylamide C25 contains Ethyl-Ascorbate Complex (25% pure Ethyl-Ascorbic Acid) which is a very stable complex; waterless solution from the Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) family which encourages an even, smooth and glowing skin appearance. One to add into any skincare routine. Dr Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Eye Cream is charged with Vitamin C and Collagen Amino Acids targets dark circles encouraging cell reproduction to plump, protect and strengthen dull and thin skin. Light-reflecting particles blur imperfections and instantly brightens. Dr Sebagh Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream is a powerful treatment. The powder transforms into a cream on contact with the skin enabling the vitamin C to be delivered directly. NIOD Ethylated L’Ascorbic Acid 30% Network is a highly concentrated network complex combines a 30% concentration of highly-stable Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) in an antioxidant network of Superoxide Dismutase, Selenium and Zinc to support a strong fight against oxidation while enhancing barrier function.

Vitamin C has come a long way and is currently seen as one of the most beneficial ingredients to add into skincare. The properties have a deeper effect in the epidermis; gradually working towards producing the surface radiance of Prescriptives
Vibrant-C.

Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) is also known as L-Ascorbic Acid which is an unstable ingredient. Heat; light, and air break it down easily and very quickly. Therefore packaging (airtight/opaque/dark containers) and formulation are very important.

Pure Ascorbic Acid is a powerful antioxidant. It protects the skin from irritation, inflammation, and environmental pollution improving the skin’s natural healing process. Also, it promotes collagen production which in turn diminishes fine lines. Visible signs of scarring and hyperpigmentation improve too; brightening dull-looking skin…and in fear of repeating myself see please the first paragraph.

Ole Henriksen Banana Bright™ Vitamin C Serum is a vegan, gluten and cruelty-free serum containing Ole’s highest concentration of vitamin C for daily use. It combines three of Ole Glow® icons—vitamin C, exfoliating acids and banana powder-inspired pigments—as well as hyaluronic acid. As I mentioned earlier, “heat; light and air can break down Vitamin C easily and quickly. Therefore packaging (airtight and opaque/dark containers) and formulation are very important”. So, therefore, Oskia Super C singular capsules are the perfect way to preserve the delicate molecules inside.  Each capsule contains a stable 2% Encapsulated Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate which is proven to be very effective. Clinique Fresh Pressed 7-Day System with Pure Vitamin C is powerful because pure Vitamin C naturally degrades when exposed to oxygen, so stay-fresh packaging isolates the pure Vitamin C until activation, maintaining its freshness and full power for maximum results. This Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster formula contains a blend of 15% stabilised vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) at a pH of 3.0, antioxidants including vitamin E and ferulic acid as well as skin-smoothing peptides. Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Day Serum is an antioxidant complex of l-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid and vitamin E, as well as Pumpkin ferment extract and pomegranate enzyme that helps to dissolve dead surface skin cells.

There are more stable Ascorbic Acid derivatives such as sodium ascorbic phosphate; ascorbic palmitate; retinyl ascorbate; tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and magnesium ascorbic phosphate which brands are cleverly mixing with other powerful ingredients like green tea; retinol; Vitamin E and/or niacinamide for an overall effective product.

Kate Somerville +Retinol Vita C Power Serum Firming and Brightening Treatment is uniquely formulated to stablize powerhouse ingredients Vitamin C and + Retinol; recommends applying this at night and to always use sunscreen in the day. Elizabeth Arden Radiance Renewal Vitamin C Serum Ceramide Capsules are encapsulated for freshness and maximum potency. This luxurious, lightweight dry oil serum combines two powerhouse ingredients in one capsule: Vitamin C for its brightening superpowers, and ceramides to help prevent moisture loss. Volition Strawberry-C Brightening Serum is inspired by one innovator’s account of her summers spent “smearing her face with strawberry stems (and being obsessed with the results)”. A rich source of vitamin C this silky elixir will brighten, control excess oil reducing the appearance of fine lines so the skin appears smooth and toned. Pixi Vitamin C Serum It’s the combination of Ferulic Acid and Vitamin-C working together that lessen the effects of damage caused by the sun. 

No two vitamin C products are the same. But they do have one common denominator, sensitive skin types. This skin type may initially find it difficult to use vitamin C due to it having a pH below 4; which it needs to be water-soluble; which inturn aids absorption into the skin. So sensitive skin types may want to start with a low percentage and apply every other day until the skin becomes ‘happy’.
My skin is a mature oily type and I felt ‘the tingle’ when I started Drunk Elephants 15% C-Firma Serum. However, as an old acned skin, I still carry a mentality of ‘ no pain no gain’ so if I don’t feel a ‘sensation’ – especially when exfoliating – I think nothing’s happening. I know I know that’s not the case, and yes I know; I should get over it.

Beauty Editor Julie Jacobs

Photographer Jason Yates

If you enjoyed this article Hooray for Citrus then why not read Summer Shimmer Here