London Collections: Men SS16

By Jo Phillips

The twice yearly event London Collections Men took place last weekend across venues around central London, with shows taking place at The Old Sorting Office in Holborn, The Hospital Club in Covent Garden and Victoria House in Bloomsbury Square. Between the catwalk shows there were host of presentations and the dedicated exhibition show spaces for emerging brands, swimwear, accessories and shoes. The shows were attended by the menswear fashion press and bloggers, national and international buyers and LCM ambassadors which this year included, David Gandy, Nick Grimshaw, Tinie Temper and Dermot O’Leary. A seamlessly run event, there was constant entertainment between events and presentations were held in the most innovative spaces, from shows in churches, to rooftop balcony’s to the squash court at the Oasis Leisure Centre! There was a Grooming Room held at the Century Club by FABRICBLACK with partners including Vidal Sasson and Dermalogica. The designer showrooms were hosted in the various locations with support from The British Fashion Council and Topman. We met an extraordinary range of talented people who we look forward to covering in the future and check out our Instagram for our highlights of the showrooms, shows and events around LCMSS16.

The shows themselves offered a broad spectrum of the menswear field ranging from sharp tailoring collections from long established London brands, to street wear from up and coming designers, during LCM London did what it does best in putting forward it’s extraordinary design talent in view of the international fashion world.

topman

Topman
The shows kicked off on Friday with Topman. The show was called ‘Nothern Surf’ and did what it said on the tin, looking to Northern Soul and 60s Cali Surf style for inspiration. The show featured icecream shades and the wide leg trousers, which we started seeing last season at the men’s shows, their adoption by Topman bringing this look to a younger and wider audience. 

 

henryholland

House of Holland X Martin Parr

Henry Holland showed his first menswear collection at LCM. Collaborating with the highly acclaimed British photographer Martin Parr, Holland has created a bold and punchy debut mens line. Parr’s work comments on social classes, predominantly within UK, using a satirical approach to his photography. This was clear to see in the collection itself with slogans (that Henry Holland is so well known for) such as “LAD LEGEND LOVER” and ‘YOUR BANTER IS BULLSHIT”. Bright, bold colours as expected from HOH with classic streetwear shapes. Henry Holland and Martin Parr, match made in sartorial heaven.

Sibling Panel

Sibling

A collection inspired by cheer leaders and American football.  Exploring the male form and stereotypes the outfits accentuated and enhanced the figures of the models and bare chests and bums in the mix. We all know that Sibling isn’t afraid of using colour and this season was no different. Fusing traditional American sports with fashion to create a bold collection that is unlike any other seen on the catwalk at London Collection’s Men.

Paul Smith Panel

Paul Smith

Paul Smith’s London presentation, was less about the clothes and more about showing what you can do in the clothes. With this in mind we watched while a stunt biker performed an array of tricks in the Mayfair art gallery setting. Top points for showmanship and clearly these are suits to move in.

Matthew Miller Panel

Matthew Miller

For SS16 Matthew Miller showed a collection influenced by workwear and office life. The crumbled cream jackets recalling the crumpled white A4 invite that was sent out. Miller showed womenswear alongside menswear, with tunics and straight cut trousers.

Joseph Smedley Panel

Joseph Turvey

With 25 pieces in the collection, John Turvey’s presentation was kept intimate and fresh. A London rooftop was transformed into a urban, colourful British jungle. Green organic patterned paint was placed on the models faces, this complimented the plants and colour plate used in th collection. The illustrations upon the garments in themselves where a thing of magic.

Pretty Green Panel

Pretty Green

Liam Gallagher’s brand showed a collection which took inspiration from the 1960’s when rock music and fashion were changing dramatically. The collection referenced the changes in attitude with the emergence of progressive rock and fashion. 

Nasir Mashar PanelNasir Mazhar

Showcasing a darker side to fashion Nasir Mazhar’s Spring Summer 16 collection brought fresh shapes and silhouettes to the LCM catwalk. The collection was all black and this even followed though to the make-up, as both male and female models were cast. The men carried out Nasir Mazhar’s youthful street style edge to fashion, twinned with equally street styled garments for the women, along side ruffle or two. The design declares he is unhappy with seeing white skinny models on th catwalk and showcase all skincolours on his centre stage.
xander zhou 2
Xander Zhou
With impeccably cut jackets from bomber, trench and crop in a range of dark to pastel to pattern, Zhou showcased his design talents. Styled with glitter loafers and Japanese silk. There was a continuation of the wider leg seen in Zhou’s AW15 collection.

John Smedley Panel

John Smedley

John Smedley ‘Contemporary History’ Spring Summer 16
Displayed in a bright white elegant room, the simple and beautiful collection by John Smedley showed classic craftsmanship at it best. Classic Dr. Martins where seen on all models. Knits placed alongside tailoring made the perfect combination of tone and fabrication. Overall the garments reflected John Smedley’s eye for craftsmanship and overall use of luxury fibres.

JW Anderson Panel

JW Anderson

Wide leg denim trousers with granny shoes, the SS16 collection from JW Anderson was off-beat but full of wearable pieces. Anderson looked to outer space for inspiration, the words “orbital”, “asteroids”, “stellar” and “satellite” cropped up on the pieces. 

CMMNSWDN

CMMN SWDN

With their aim to create “hybrid quality wardrobe staples mixed with progressive standout pieces”, CMMN SWDN have been consistent in their aesthetic in their two years of production. Influenced by youth sub-culture, this collection includes interesting shapes and silhouettes not explored before in menswear. Sticking to simplistic muted neutral tones such as navy, grey, black and white. Adding an element of awkward juxtaposition, CMMN SWDN dressed the looks all with short ankle wellington boots that was an interesting twist on the smart and slick top half.

baartmans&siegel

Baartmans&Siegel

London-based duo Baartmans&Siegel’s presentation showed an interesting combination of classic western influences with urban streetwear. This juxtaposition was seen throughout other LCM SS16 shows using classic, luxury tailoring with an urban twist. Pairing ripped white jeans (giving a nod to the America theme) with a structures grey duster coat highlights this trend well. The setting for the presentation also employed this same contradiction with neon cacti accompanying the looks. The mix of technology and nature sums this collection up well.

belstaff

Belstaff

Belstaff unleashes a new line of safari utility wear, perfect for this summer. With the brown and beige jackets, Belstaff proves that they can create an inspiring line besides a motor industry. Displayed against an intriguing back drop of the desert Belstaff creates an illusionary vision alongside his pieces. Fashion for bikes, its edgy style explores masculine tropes that takes over the catwalk.

loudalton

Lou Dalton

 

Lou Dalton’s tries to revisit a poignant moment in youth. Her chosen colour scheme of ‘blues’ and ‘oranges’, have a trippy vibe on the collection. Uplifting and exhilarating, it’s set out to relive the past and brings into the present. The effortless bursts of colour, contrasts against the slightly toned down blue hues. Sporting cargo shorts and macs, this collection put an usual spin on past trends with it’s shapeless cuts and baggy fits. Dalton sends out a message, that youth will fade but memories will not.

kitneale

Kit Neale

Bold Prints were all the rage at the Kit Neale show with elaborate accessories as well. London based new-gen designer started in 2012 creating crazy clothes with her signature attention-demanding prints. This season, Kit Neale clashed these prints within the looks. She also explored the ever so edgy look of head-to-toe print. Keeping it a streetwear look she teamed the prints with converse to keep it casual. Other accessories included brightly coloured pom-pom earrings and sunhat giving the collection an almost child-like aesthetic. There’s something refreshing about a designer using no colour palette and having lots of fun with the looks which is clear to see from this collection.

mrhare

Mr Hare

The first clothing collection from the shoe master Mr Hare. Inspired by traditional African tribal dress, combined with tailoring. The collection complimented Mr Hare’s well established footwear offering.

Soulland

Soulland

A sporty, streetwear presentation in a church, the Soulland SS16 collection featured jacquard woven patterns and embroidery, with linen suits, denim, patchwork and graffiti motifs, in a modern, contemporary menswear aesthetic. 

toddlynnTodd Lynn

“Nowhere to hide” in the all white collection from Rock and Roll menswear designer Todd Lynn.

maharashi

Maharashi

The collection draws on international influences, from the clothing worn by devotees within religious orders around the world. Monk’s robes, Judaic prayer strings and capes of the Knights Templar have all been reinterpreted and cross bred with one another to create a pan-global language of devotional uniform.

aquascutum

Aquascutum

oliverspencer

Oliver Spencer

Relaxed but smart, clothes for travelling and exploring in. Prints and a colour palette of khaki, navy and florals.

Sankuanz

Sankuanz

Founded in 2008, SANKUANZ Co., Ltd shows his third season collection at LCM. Challenging gender stereotypical aesthetics, the models wore long plaited braids down past their chest. This innovative theme of androgynous genderless fashion was definitely present last season and is clear to see still continues into SS16-for more on last seasons gender neutral look, check out our current issue Man; explained. SANKUANZ has taken the classic menswear suit and altered the shape and fit more appropriate for streetwear. This look was then also apposed with a tribal organic bag with fringe detail. This unfamiliar combination set SANKUANZ up for an interesting preview.

Edward Panel1

Edward Crutchley

Alongside a fashion film Edward Crutchley displayed bold colours and bold prints. The prints reflected a religious feel that create beautiful garments that display men, all races. The collection was cut beautifully and the fashion film reflected and complimented the collection as a whole.  Edward Crutchley’s Spring Summer 2016 fashion film  brought a fresh idea and way of showcasing the collection and displaying who Edward Crutchley is.

turnbull & asser

Turbbull & Asser

A collection inspired by society’s relationship with time, the collection explores the evolution of English style. Incorporating colour and pattern, with multi-cultural heritage and influences, Aztec, African and Japanese prints and jacquards.

Thomas Pink Panel

Thomas Pink

thomsweeney

Thom Sweeney

Cottweiler

Cottweiler

The Cottweiler presentation was one of the most innovative uses of space at this year’s LCM, the presentation took place in the Oasis sports centre in Covent Garden. The collection itself consisted of New Age sportswear, in all white.

UniversalWorks

Universal Works

This was a presentation with a difference, backstage access with rails and models and a film instead of a catwalk, all held in church. The clothes themselves were simple and wearable, workwear shapes in a tight colour palette.


libertinelibertine

Libertine Libertine

The contemporary menswear label displayed their collection amongst the rafters of  an old building. A collection of simple menswear in a range of fabrications and prints.

Over the course of LCM, we used our new ASUS T100 Chi to document our time on social media. The T100 Chi is a transformer two-in-one tablet which was really useful for the team in quick tweeting/instagramming as it’s so interactive and quick and the keyboard element was beneficial for making notes on all the shows.

T100_edition_07