London Fashion Week AW15 Friday

By Jo Phillips

Eudon Choi 

London Fashion Week is here! One of the first shows of the day was Eudon Choi. It’s always refreshing to see a collection where the pieces can all be mixed and matched together harmounously. The looks were playful yet smart and sophisticated.  Love the circular theme that’s going on with the outwear as well as the gold cocoon dress!

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Teatum Jones 

Designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones turned to a music icon for this AW15 collection, Gloria Jones, and even named a dress after her. The collection featured houndstooth, ginghams, and dresses with beading, feathers, and patterns. There were also everyday pieces like slouchy cardigans and knits.

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James Kelly 

James Kelly, winner of the Fashion Scout Merit Award AW15, graduated from Royal College of the Art’s Fashion Design MA. On winning the award, designer James Kelly celebrated; “I am completely blown away with the fact that I was chosen for the Merit Award. I’m so excited to be working on my new collection to be shown at Fashion Scout this February and am so thankful for this opportunity!” James Kelly was handpicked from over 200 emerging designers who applied for the Merit Award by the Selection Panel of industry experts including; Sara Maino from Vogue Italia, Hilary Alexander OBE, Stylist Rebekah Roy, Fashion Scout Director Martyn Roberts and former Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge. “We are very excited with James Kelly’s selection for the Fashion Scout Merit Award AW15/16.” said Martyn Roberts, Fashion Scout Director. “We have been following his journey as a designer and already he has a real buzz around his beautiful collection”. The collection featured a lot of fashionable and functional outerwear.

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Fyoder Golan

Were you a fan of My Little Pony when you were a child? Well then you’ll love this nostalgic yet modern blast from the past. The collection, aptly entitled Rainbow Wheel, featured an array of bright neon colors. There was an underlying sporty feel to the clothes as puffer jackets were turned into dresses and baseball jersey became was reworked into prints of skyscrapers.

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Felder and Felder  

Rock chic by day, seductive mistress by night. The Fedler and Fedler girl has two contrasting characteristics. Some garments in sheer lace left little to the imagination, but also stimulated a fantasy. No two fabrics have quite as tension-filled a relationship as leather and lace and it shows from the garments where the two are combined. We love the pops of metallic.

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Daks

Red is the new black, as at least, that’s what Daks said with this collection. For some looks, the color was used from head to toe, and it actually worked! Mix in a few monochrome colors, abstract floral prints, and quilted leather and you have a full functional wardrobe that makes a bold statement.

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Sass & Bide

Anthony Cuthbertson, the new creative director of Sass & Bide, is exercising his talent at the youthful label while still playing with the label’s strong DNA. The brand, which is known for embellishment, customization, and edgy glamour, seems a little more grown up this season. Cuthbertson is not offering more gorgeous outwear, but is also making the brand more “grown up” by focusing on the quality of the clothes. He has also given the collection a wearable casual feel to it that was refreshing.

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Jean Pierre Berganza 

Structured VS. deconstructed. There was a beautiful tension in the clothes of Jean Pierre Berganza and we loved it! Those berry dresses are divine.

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Central Saint Martins

The best was saved for last on the first day of London Fashion Week. There was a strong palpable energy that was felt in this Central Saint Martins show. It was a moving one, as the talented students who presented were the last that studied under the legendary professor Louise Wilson’s, before her passing late last year. Wilson always pushed her students at Saint Martins (her alum include Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, and Simone Rocha to name a few)  and this show was a tribute to her. It would be close to impossible to summarize the show; there were 15 students presenting, each collection completely different but equally strong. What they all shared was a strong vision, incredible technical details, and an overall feel of destruction. Each student’s design DNA was appealing in its own way, both conceptually and commercially. The winners of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award were Matty Bovan Beth Postle. Bovan’s knitwear skills are on another level while Postle’s collection was powerfully graphic but still playful. Surely, they would have made Wilson proud.

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