London Fashion Week AW15 Sunday

By Jo Phillips

Preen 

The Preen collection felt like several in one and we mean that in a good way. It started off with a series of checkered looks in classic Preen colors (think blues, oranges, and yellows). Some prints were fuzzy while others were more in focus, both equally strong. The collection then transitioned from colorful to a series of black looks with embellishment. The show ended with beautiful blue floral frocks with exploding blooms.

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David Koma 

Designer David Koma knows what his women want; sleek, glamourous, formfitting dresses. He delivered that and more with this collection, offering looks that are edgy, graphic, and sometimes looser. The nude and black combination was a winning one.

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Topshop Unique 

Kate Phelan always gets it right with Topshop. Since Cara Delevingne became the face of the brand, the style became easier to pinpoint. Think classics mixed with of-the-moment pieces, hand-me-downs worn with the new, the extravagant contrasted against the effortless. The details of Topshop Unique pieces are always worth appreciating. Luxurious details gave the young look a polished feel. Although there is always something quintessentially English about it, every girl will want a piece of this collection.

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Mathew Williamson 

Zodiac signs was the starting point of reference for this Mathew Williamson collection. It inspired the shapes, prints, and colors. It’s interesting to see how each one was interpreted. No one does color quite like Williamson!

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 Sophia Webster

Nobody injects joy into LFW quite like Sophia Webster. The presentation took place in a church-turned-art-venue-turned-nightclub (known as the Limelight in the 80’s). The anticipation welled as you went up the tiny sketchy staircase, with throbbing house music, and of course what appeared did not disappoint. The Club du Sophia was created by the magnificent set designer Shona Heath who created this incredible carnival with the Victor Vasarely’s op art and the Bauhaus costumes of the Triadic Ballet in mind. The collection, entitled “Freak Like Me”, featured everything we know and love about Webster (neon colors, ironic slogans, and butterfly wing heels). The collection also had fun Coca Cola motif pieces as well as adorable baby shoes that were TO DIE FOR. The designer is on fire right now, having collaborated wight he likes of J.Crew and Victoria Secret, planning a new retail space in London, as well as being shortlisted for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award.

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Paul Smith

Everyone fell in love with the latest menswear collection Paul Smith presented, so he redesigned the pieces,  but kept the same vibe for womenswear. Think blurry checkered coats, delicious berry and mustard tones, and the classic monochrome pieces. The loose fitting look gave them an effortless elegance.

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Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Dame Vivienne Westwood always brings punk into London Fashion Week. Look from a distance, and you’ll see beautiful draping, structured tailoring, and classic tones. Look a little closer and you’ll see bold makeup, edgy hair, and accessories with a message (some totes had prints of teddy bears). Even though the pieces are utterly wearable, they never lack personality, and the stripped and tartan looks have Westwood written all over them. There always a play between masculine and feminine which was present in this collection too.

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 Mary Katrantzou 

Mary Katrantzou has moved way past being categorized as a print designer and has become about so much more than just that. She is exploring new territories, pushing the boundaries creativity, and creating technically jaw-dropping garments. This collection checks of all of the above. The designer was inspired by the notion of kenophobia (the feat of emptyness) and how Victorians live in lavish, intricate, cluttered spaces. The list of materials used can confusing to some (plastic, fur, rubber, brocade, plush), but all you need to do is look at some of the images of the looks to understand that Mary knows what she’s doing, and she’s incredibly good at it. Everything from the rubber-runway to the boxy clutches and boxy silhouettes was perfection.

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 Jonathan Saunders

It could be said that Saunders sent out his strongest collection to date this season. The prints were so cleverly graphic that they almost felt three dimensional.  The play of vibrant colors in unexpected combinations was quintessential Saunders, while the demure silhouettes made it unbelievably wearable.

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Pringle of Scotland

A understated offering from Pringle of Scotland. The collection incorporated it’s heritage textiles, knitwear of course featured heavily, but the shapes were minimalist and unfussy mainly in black. Massimo Nicosia played with argyll patterns knit in unlikely textures on coats and slinky burnt out velvet on knee length skirts.

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