London Fashion Week is known for being one of the most exciting, surprising, and creatively-stimulating events of the year. This season did not disappoint. There is a kind of thrill in attending the shows of established designers who once were ambitious Central Saint Martins students (think Roksanda Illincic, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha). Today, they are the highlight of London Fashion Week’s busy Schedule. There is also a crop of new, young, fearless designers who are worth taking note of. If this season proves anything, it’s that London always delivers. Being as it’s one of the most inclusive fashion capitals, where anything goes, one can find a variety of personalities and aesthetics. We can’t wait to see what the future of British Fashion holds. Below are some of our fashion week highlights. Helen Lawrence Designer Helen Lawrence is definitely one to keep on your fashion radar. With a BA in Textiles from Chelsea College of Art and Design along with an MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins, there’s no doubting this young designer’s technical skills. Fashion East took note of her talent and then the designer spread her own wings for AW15. For this collection, Lawrence presented luxe knits that are beautifully distressed, deconstructed, dissected. They might be inspired by the tape-wrapped sculptures of Phyllida Barlow, however, these pieces are works of art in their own right. The knotted Kult Domini shoes complemented these looks perfectly. We look forward to seeing with this young star will unravel in the future.
London College of Fashion MA Womenswear
It’s hard to get the balance between conceptual and wearable. However, it’s seems like every one of these students managed to get it right. Every collection had a distinct identity. Get to know them better in our Q&A with the talented group: http://centmagazine.co.uk/lcf-ma-fashion-design-technology-students/19681
Minki Cheng This Minkie Cheng collection, inspired by the hustle and bustle of city life in Hong Kong, was a treat to the eyes. Think long knits in monochrome colors lit up by LED lighting. There is a contemporary-art feel to this whole collection that makes quite irresistible. Electric x Hemyca Fashion fused with digital innovation was at the core of this Hemyca collection, which was entitled Decrypt. The show took place in London’s ME Hotel. A special effects team worked with designer duo Helen Clinch and Maya Nigris. Wilson PK You might have not guessed it by looking at these clothes, but this Wilson PK collection is actually inspired by East London and time the designer spent at the Crisis Homeless Shelter. Texture was played with unexpectedly; real butterflies were used inside the plastic fabrics, and 3D printed geometric beads were sewn into the knits and jumpers, the architecture was translated into the fabrics through structured black organza pleats. The standout piece of the collection was the “Handle With Care” silver and white mid-length skirt. Wilson PK is another Central Saint Martins graduate to watch out for.
Milliner Stephen Jones creates a collection inspired by a trip to Hatsville, USA.
For this debut Judy Wu collection, The Fashion Scout star found inspirited in her childhood spent in Shanghai. The collection celebrated geometric lines, block prints, and vibrant colors like orange, red and cobalt blue to highlight the colors of the city. Of course, it would be incomplete without a fitted Qipao. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNqKCY5oKak
Scottish designer Samantha McCoach uniform-inspired collection is full of, you guess it, kilts! She recreates them and gives them an 80’s punk edge. This season she presented kilts in green tartan, dogtooth print, and patchwork checks clipped in with big pins.
Palmer/Harding If you’re a fan of monochrome, than this Palmer/Harding collection is for you. The clothes were smart, architectural, and strong. They are the kind of timeless pieces one wouldn’t feel guilty about investing in and, even if everyone in London sported these chic black-and-white separates, they’re the kind of garments that can be styled in a multitude of ways. Belstaff The Belstaff woman is strong, independent, and adventurous. Aviatrixes Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson were the point of reference for this strong collection featuring biker jackets, enveloping parkas, and bulky Chelsea boots. These masculine pieces were contrasted against long feminine chiffon dresses, cozy mohair turtlenecks, and powder blue jacquards.
Youjia Jin Masculine meets feminine aesthetics for this Youjia Jin collection. Think sharp-tailored looks contrasted against light sheer fabrics, pinstripe suits against soft pleats, loose fits combined with clinched waists.
Claire Barrow Newgen’s Claire Barrow presents her collection, entitled High Flyers, inspired by life in London and all the components in it. She considers the difference between the indoor and outdoor environment. Everyone from city workers to powerful working women were thought of during the design process. Magneta, red, ochre, dark green, and sky blue are all colors that make an appearance in this vivid collection. We can totally see ourselves running around the streets of windy London in these edgy looks. Molly Goddard Young female art students who woke up in their party frocks; that was the vibe of the naughty but nice Molly Goddard presentation that presented dresses over pants, 70’s frocks, and lots of tulle. The models were full of creative life as they painted a live nude model.
While everyone was focusing on the new, the shiny, the immaculate, young designer Danielle Romeril went on a slightly different dystopian route. It was this idea not being able to buy anything anymore, and making outfits out of things you can salvage. The collection itself was even entitled “Survive”. The dresses combined velvet, lace, leather and Romeril even used the Japanese Odoshi technique to mend them together.
Aspinal of London x Être Cécile
Old meets new when London-based fashion brands Aspinal of London and Être Cécile join forces for this collaboration of handbag and accessories. Think quintissential English classics mixed with easy, wearability, and playful aesthetics. The results? A collection of chic fun yet grow-up pieces that will last a lifetime.
Somerset House All in all, it was a fantastic fashion week, and it couldn’t have been this great without the support of the British Fashion Council, all the sponsors, and fabulous designers.