Cent magazine brings you highlights from London Fashion Week, showing you an array of world class designers for AW16/17.
Friday morning began with J.JS Lee’s refined and sophisticated catwalk show full of tweeds and minimal styles. Shoes were styled to match the garments, whilst accents of canary yellows and rich reds broke up the predominately monochromatic collection.
Eudon Choi’s show was titled Sunwise Turn, as the models walked the catwalk in tailored structured garments. Inspiration for the collection was drawn from abstract art, particularly from the works of female painters Saloua Raouda Choucair and Helen Frankenthaler by using shapes, colours and forms. Through asymmetric shapes, a slight 90’s effect flue over the collection.
Ryan Lo’s acentric collection is full of pinks, purples and corals, influenced by films that the designer grew up watching as a child Indeed the models looked like beautiful Chinese cartoon characters: hair and makeup gave an overall “doll” feeling the the collection, complimenting the floral garments with matching flowers in the hair. Organza, silk and fur fabrics built an array of fun and almost magical look.
There could not have been a more perfect setting to showcase the unbelievably stunning collection from Ong-Aoj Pairam. Rich, intricate styles, fit for a lady oozing with femininity and class. Embroidered floral applique, sheer sleeves, draped silks, feathered bottoms and accessorised with a sensational pair of metallic courts.
Prepare to stand out with Fyodor Golan’s collection this AW. A real experimentation of colours, textures and styles, decorative cut out holes made a consistent appearance in many of the garments, as did colourful fishnets and Coco Cola prints which were transferred onto silk.
Clio Peppiatt’s AW presentation, ‘Motel Clio’ built upon a concept about how an individual tends to take on a whole new persona when in a motel environment. Quirky ‘Do Not Disturb’ slogans, pyjama suits and quilted bathrobe style jackets were teamed with super cute high heel bunny slippers, designed by Streetzie.
Three Floor presented their AW16 collection amongst pretty garden settings, creating this idea of a dark, mystical fairy tale. Garments shown featured stunning lazer cut details, sheer draped fabrics, and feminine lace pieces teamed with shiny booties or furry strappy heels.
Steventai’s collection ‘Freaky Friday’ was inspired by the phase ‘an old soul’. Think corduroys, pearl buttons, patchwork denim and printed suits, which worked beautifully when styled against the clashing walls. Models knitted whilst swaying in rocking chairs to create even more of an ambience.
Ede’line Lee prepared to strip back with her collection, inspired by this idea of simplifying, decluttering and minimising, particularly in this society in which we live. Models were amongst a colourful, confetti styled landscape, whilst dressed in clean shapes, some featuring beautiful embroidered florals, monochromatic outerwear with a pop of red.
Photo credit: Simbarashe Cha
Marta Jakubowski formed a collection entitled Super Heros, based around the power of women’s strength. The colour palette consisted of monochrome tones, as well as the occasional red piece. 90s styled oversized, structural cuts and quilted fabrics and fingerless gloves were featured, conveying this idea of protection.
Miuniku exhibited a collection drawn from the idea of discovering new things and the addressing the unknown. The garments displayed clean, structured tailoring with the additional graphic detailing and exposed fastenings, seen be associated with geological references.
Le Kilt’s AW16 collection celebrated its 1970s roots by crafting a collection, reflecting punk youth. Kilts were made up of Scottish patterns and were a mixed patchwork of fabrics and pleats in some looks, whilst being teamed with chunky knits and leather chokers to get a real feel of grunge.
Photo credit: Bryony Wright
Fashion East presents:
A.V Robertson’s collection brought a grungy sci-fi edge to the catwalk, whilst adding a contrast of the men’s tailored pinstripe, in both vertical and horizontal stripes shown on a range of styles. Silky high necks, oversized jackets, asymmetric shapes were shown in vibrant greens, purples and reds, whilst being styled – by world known stylist Katie Grand- with long gloves.
Fashion East presents:
A wonderfully contrasted collection from Caitlin Price, juxtaposing 90s sporty elements with club wear. Zippered hoodies were teamed with miniskirts and accessorized with fluffy trimmed handbags. Models worked the facial piercings alongside chunky necklaces, jewellery belts and poker straight hair.
Fashion East presents:
Mimi Wade’s presentation stemmed from the late 60s, inspired by bad girls such as Faye Dunaway who starred in Bonnie & Clyde. A combination of feminine, lacey shapes and graphic motorbike motifs exposed the power of the female protagonist in cinema. Accessorizes were unbelievably glamorous with oversized earrings, fur trimmed sheer gloves and pompom handbags.
Fashion East presents:
A truly blue collection from Richard Malone this AW, as nautical elements ran throughout. Turquoise, navy and white stripes were layered in various styles with the occasional pop of yellow, adding dimension and depth to each look. Trousers were 70s inspired with flared bell bottomed trousers and teamed with high necks.
Jasper Conran commenced the show with a range of monochrome styles, providing a real sophistication with classic tailoring, whilst accessorising with black hats. Geometric shapes then took the stage, echoing 60s elements shown through burgundy and moss green prints. The final part of the collection revealed silky shifts with a much brighter colour palette than the traditional autumn/winter tones, certain to brighten up the season.
An outstanding show from Sibling, showcasing the ‘Give the world a little disco’ collection, which reflected singer Grace Jones. The models walked down the catwalk to Kelis’ milkshake, whilst flaunting sequins, feathers and sparkle.The key colour: PURPLE.
Julien Mcdonald fused together contrasting solid and sheer elements, creating a surreal illusion of body armour against the female form. Inspiration was taken from modernist architecture, whilst hand cut Swarovski crystals and lazer cut metal elements generate an ombre effect onto the garments. Without forgetting Julien’s signature touch: glitter.
Altuzarra unveiled a patterned assortment of designs, exploring various cultural styles and drawing inspiration from 19th century textiles, Indian paisleys, Moroccan & Turkish costumes. Handkerchief hem dresses were shown, representing a folk style of dress whilst shearling fur coats with duffle fastenings also made an appearance, alongside the stunning embroidered occasion wear.
The Holly Fulton show displayed a collection based around the artistic works of David Inshaw. Clothing incorporated monochromatic paisley printed pieces, khaki green and salmon pink combos and rich chocolate brown jacquards designs and structured shapes.
House of Holland
There were no boundaries in the House of Holland AW collection. A modern twist on two of the most crucial eras in fashion – 1920s vs 1970s. Exposing colourful tassels on the traditional flapper dress whilst teaming with chunky platform ankle boots. Garments radiated glam by merging clashing prints and textures, particularly shown by combining sequins, metallic bombers and silk printed pieces.
Giorgia Hardinge worked with a beautifully feminine silhouette in her AW Shooting Stars collection, presenting against a starry background. Her concept was based around how the movement of stars depends on the observer’s position. This worked perfectly with the statement pleats, featuring metallic foiled graphics inside each fold.
Gabriel Vielma’s AW16 presentation drew inspiration from Wes Anderson’s film ‘The Life Aquatic’. Models wore theatrical electric blue make up, whilst screens were positioned to sit where the model’s eyes would normally be, making this presentation an unusual but fun experience. Styles reflected that of the 70s, displaying boxy structural pieces, as well as sheer, flared jumpsuits and seabird printed knitwear in an array of eccentric mustard, orange and khaki tones.
A very minimal colour palette from Roberts|Wood, as he presents a textural, yet constructed collection consisting of fabric manipulation combining casual and oversized tailoring with sheer materials. The clothes hung beautifully on the models during the presentation, as they performed theatrical dance, conveying a surrealist fantasy.
The Faustine Steinmetz presentation illustrated the effectiveness of matching the presentation space with the garments, seen in collaboration with set designer Thomas Petherick. The collection featured simple shapes, resembling aspects of the 90s, whilst focusing on texture and dimension by using mohair, cotton and metallic fabrics in a range of vibrant shades. The models were inside large boxes with cut out strips to peer through that revealed a blue, yellow, orange, pink or white filled box where both the collection and the four walls were one colour.
Having drawn inspiration from American art collector Peggy Guggenheim, Peter Jensen’s exhibition showcased models rotating round the road where they each stood on a box dripping with white paint. An array of creative abstract designs were shown through the clothing, corduroy co ordinates and oversized pussy bowed shirts were combined with an 80s inspired fishnets and converse combo.
Roberta Einer has crafted a collection fit for those empowered, independent women, willing to experiment with various fashion codes whilst remaining utterly feminine. Models were featured amongst dreamy pink and green settings, whilst wearing high waisted tweed a-lines, heavy oversized jumper dresses and sultry, silk dinner suits.
Accessories played just as much of a part in the Markus Lupfer collection as the clothing did, complimenting crop trousers and delicate midi lengths with star-speckled and flower embroidered square-toed boots. Some models were seen sporting glittery sparkles on their eyes whilst others wore fabulously chic 70s round sunglasses, bringing an essence of a fun and youth to the collection.
James Kelly displayed a genderless collection ‘I can only see, Oxygen’ and showcased his AW clothing on androgynous models. Having gathered artistic inspiration from painter Francis Bacon, Kelly created oversized, constructed garments by utilising seams, rips and tears to expose additional garments whilst manipulating shapes and proportions.
Isa Arfen’s collection is centred all on living for the moment along with the idea of using the clothes you wear as a method of escapism. Layered silk taffetas, embossed velvet, high-waisted denim and disco silk oozed with femininity, keeping everything classy yet never restricted.
Helen Lawrence creates a unique twist to the usual knitwear pieces this A/W. Textural knits are a manipulated combination of lambwool, mohair and mesh. Decorative holes are shown in garments, using asymmetric shapes to form modernity and quirkiness.
Beautifully boxy silhouettes from Palmer//Harding, particularly shown with structural overcoats and frilly asymmetric cuts. Tones of coral made an appearance throughout breaking up the 60s inspired brown tile designs.
The Omer Asim presentation emitted sheer tranquillity whilst the collection focused on underlying architectural elements, exploring the art of designing and ‘undesigning’. Garments were built upon the beauty of contrast – uniting masculinity with femininity, black with white, wool with wood and leathers with silks. An effective use of minimal colours worked beautifully alongside subtle detailing such as the tasselled and pleated panels.
Minki Cheng’s presentation transported her childhood memories of anime robots, warriors and guardians into a modern day collection. Garments featured fabulous metallic heaven shown through oversized bombers, sparkly glitter patchwork, creating a real sense of futurism. Models were accessorised with leg warmers whilst positioned on a yarn rug, almost to seem as if they were on a different planet.
Teatum Jones shaped their AW collection by using rich autumnal tones consisting of mustards, burgundys, forest greens and winter blues. Deep v midi dresses featured geometric patterns, whilst patchworking on contrasting ceramic tile designs with the added detail of a sheer roll neck underneath.
A loosely tailored collection featuring pointy collars, pinstripe and tartan was brought to LFW this season by Margaret Howell. The dark muted colour palette put focus on the cut of the garments, taking a less structured approach to tailoring but still including pieces such as a two piece pinstripe suit with high waisted trousers.
Fashion DNA Pakistan Presents:
House of Kamir
A beautiful mix of the bollywood prints and materials on a collection that showed a sixties feel with mini dresses and skirts. House of Kamir took inspiration from its neighbours in Persia with some persia themed prints in various golds and pinks.
Fashion DNA Pakistan Presents:
Geometric and psychedelic patterns took a 70s approach to DNA Pakistan that was combined with shapes from the traditional chinese dresses. Laser cut mini dresses were paired with black knee high boots and lime green and pink snuck through in many patterns.
Fashion DNA Pakistan Presents:
A completely autumnal palette had statement prints composed of woodland wildlife. Aspects of southeast asian influences feature at the start of the collection with a beautiful kimono shaped jacket with a bird print trim, tying in the wildlife aspects of the rest of the collection.
Combining futuristic materials with inspiration from historical sixteenth century costumer and elements of football scarfs, a mixed array of themes creates the Danielle Romeril girl. We see some Dutch 80’s cult nightclub inspiration paired with oversized slit elbows and knees using a futuristic colour pallet creating strong deconstructed looks.
TOPSHOP displayed many upcoming trends including the super wide leg trouser and dirty baby pink. The mixed up styling featured a tailored trouser with a cropped sequin top, a key look. Velvet and fur was strong throughout the collection giving an overall romantic feel yet with a harder edge.
Paying homage to his early collections and focusing the feel of the presentation toward handsome women, Paul Smith explored authoritate femininity and used an adaptation of his signature colour palette to display. Themes of new romance were seen with his use of structure and the contrast of black and vibrant colours in graphic floral print.
A space invaded 90s gig was the scene set at Mary Benson’s presentation. Mesh and denim featured through the collection in various neons. Seventies aspects were included with leg warmers and wide leg trousers. A unique and well executed clash of the decades.
Hill & Friends
Displaying their second season with everything pink from the invites to the drinks. ‘Welcome to The Happy Factory!’ showed a short film of their AW collection. The brand’s signature wit and playfulness showed strongly in the film with Bellboys and Snow white inspired factory helpers.
The waiting room effect of Phoebe English’s presentation gave a slightly humorous feel to the presentation because of the extremely depressing nature of the models. The garments were deconstructed and draped asymmetrically using a colour palette of black, midnight blue and deep plum.
Playing on the idea of great polar expeditions, Belstaff’s highly popular presentation took inspiration from the past women explorers. A mixture of leathers, skins and furs added texture to the autumnal colour palette. The calfskin helmets and new style of boots, with a block heel, added a rawness finishing touch to the protective yet luxurious collection.
A colour pallette of black, camel and bright white hemming created the clean cut collection by Sid Neigum. Clean lines are deconstructed and reconstructed to create structural looks, with belted waists and graphic themes.
Vin & Omi
A mixture of different cuts, textures and shapes were brought together with a rainbow of colours. Each look had its own dedicated colour with matching wig to finish. Ties along the pvc trousers and tops features throughout adding to the overall futuristic feel.
Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland’s A/W collection truly embraced the brand’s history and heritage. We saw beautiful modern Aran and Guernsey knitwear, in a soft and natural colour palette. The overall looks were monochrome, giving a casual appearance to the collection.
Amazing patchworks were shown during Burberry’s catwalk show: From its Iconic trench coat to accessories, every piece was beautiful detailed. From military green, to sapphire blue passing by parade red, the colour palette is extremely broad yet perfectly harmonised. Moreover, the collection clearly took inspiration from the 40’s, especially from the military look. Indeed the key garments were cropped military trousers and cashmere military coats.
Moreover, honoring the fact that from September the collections shown during its catwalk shows will be available to buy immediately worldwide, you can go and see the A/W collection display at the 121 Regent street Burberry store.
Inspired by nordic symbolism, Peter Pilotto’s collection was full of poesy. Using unconventional pastels fill with icy tones, combine with luxury fabrics such as velvet and satin, amplified with ruffles gave a romantic twist to the collection.
Joseph’s collection definitely celebrated personal expression! We saw unconventional yet brilliant looks: from those amazing oversized knitted jumpers, to laced up trousers without forgetting the whole turned inside out letting the garments being seen in there rawest form. There was surely a vibe of late 80’s floating on the catwalk!
Ashish certainly gave everyone the Saturday Night Fever during its A/W disco collection! Alongside colourful and glittery dresses and jumpsuit, the models were wearing matching colour oversized afro wigs, which threw the audience back to studio 54.
Antonio Berardi presented a perfectly structured collection. From black belted waisted coats, passing by romantic burgundy dresses, to laced up tops: the Berardi women has no label and free to wear whatever she likes.
Roksanda’s victorian inspired collection enchanted the catwalks. The key garments being ruffled sleeves, victorian collars with modern twists and elegant under-the-knee skirts. The autumnal colour palette and the geometrical play on patterns brought a fresh 60’s wave to the collection.
Taking inspiration from medieval shaped gowns and combining this with element of luxe sportswear, Amanda Wakeley produced a collection that expressed a strong femininity. The multiple belted waists held together layers of material draped to create flowing elegant and structured silhouettes.
Ashley Williams creating an androgynous collection, appealing to both men and women. Featuring loose tailoring and cross over braces on a pallet of blacks navy and white alongside neon mini dresses.
We see old western influences in leathers and lizard earrings throughout the collection. Featuring faux fur on shawls, sleeves and a statement coat. To finish off the collection Toga’s new handbag collection was featured through.
The stand out deconstructed asymmetric puffer jackets dominated the show at Marques’Almeida. Fishnet dresses added to the massive 90s influence that took over the collection along with a luxe sportwear theme seen from zip jumpers.
Displayed amongst a geometric metal structure, the collection featured oversized thick knitwear jumpers and scarves. The colour palette was fairly masculine with pops of red in the knitwear and statement red coats.
The young Chinese designer Xiao Li showed for the first time on schedule last week during LFW! She presented an elaborated collection, with amazing oversized glitter knitwear including jumpers, dresses and gloves. The garments are deconstructed to honor her theme ” where has the time gone?”, to show how fast the fashion industry actually is. And as an emblem of this statement: the cute clock clutch.