New York Menswear A/W 16-17 Highlights
By Jo Phillips
Cent magazine brings highlights from New York Men’s Fashion Week, showing you an array of world class designers for AW16/17.
An obvious vision stemmed from the 80s at the Edmund Ooi show, entitled ‘Class of 2525’. Extreme denim roll ups, biker jackets and duffle coats were combined with vibrant leather gloves, chunky socks and Dr Marten boots, capturing a sense of futuristic schoolboy meets punk rocker.
Garciavelez had its own take on loungewear, keeping it relaxed by featuring wide fitting trousers, oversized jackets and matching two pieces. Most styles incorporated a geometric design with checkered prints and squares.
Duckie Brown presented a very minimal, sports inspired collection. The show space reflected the collection beautifully; amongst a plain, open spaced setting, as the models walked. White zippered tracksuit jackets doubled up as shirts underneath suit jackets, as white Chuck Taylors were teamed with each outfit, working with the monochromatic colour palette.
Simon Miller fused together minimalism and rudiments of the 90s in the AW16 collection. The garments were influenced by skatewear, shown in pieces such as denim ripped jeans teamed with relaxed mustard toned shirts, as well as incorporated textures drawn from Japan.
General Idea add a distinctive Western touch to their AW16 collection. Eyelet fastenings and exposed zips were used not just for functionality but also for also decorative purposes. Graphic text and imagery were printed onto outerwear garments teamed with enhanced roll necks and hexagon shaped glasses.
Robert Geller based his collection around the 1973 Michael Ende novel ‘Momo’, it can be seen that pieces reflect the fantasy story based around time and how the modern world uses this. Items included; sleek leather trousers, magenta bombers, earthy toned jumpsuits, which provided a hint of sportswear, whilst being styled with stunning mauve briefcases and heavily slicked back grey hair.
Nautica stripped it right back in their Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, combining both its New York heritage and nautical roots. Heavy knitted roll necks, puffer jackets, double breasted coats to provide warmth for the modern male.
Carlos Campos displayed a unique twist on modern tailoring with western influences, featuring double breasted short jackets and waist coats in navy, black, camel and white. The colour palette was limited, refining the collection. Slightly oversized capes had large outer pockets and single stripe detailing, paired with matching tailored trousers. Smart hats and the use of camel made the western inspirations evident.
Tim Coppens showcased a collection, which merged a variety of different cultures and styles ranging from military to streetwear. Tartan prints, stripes, Japanese style embroidery and ACID graphics were just some of the details revealed for this AW.
Displaying oversized reconstructed tailoring SIKI IM and the extension line DEN IM were shown together on the New York runway. A simple palette of shades of black, oxblood and aubergine allowed for statement prints from Im’s favourite Vampire movies to dominate pieces. Cashmere coats and pants were paired with architectural leather shapes showing dynamics among the black tones. Dripping paint from the ears and face, often concentrated to the mouth and cross single earring featured throughout the collection emphasises with the vampire themes.
Inspired by Tommy’s favourite icon’s elevated American clothing takes a modern global twist. Selvedge denim jeans are paired with thick cable-knit fisherman sweaters. Graphic chalk prints took dominance throughout the collection, layered under everything from Crombie coats to puffer jackets.
Dark tones of charcoal and racing green walked along side military inspired camel suits and double breasted overcoats. Traditional Russian fur hats featured adding texture to various looks. the whole HVRMINN collection was extremely tailored, experimenting with different crop length and had consistency with patent footwear finishing off each look.
Expressing that ‘Rock is alive’, John Varvatos completed his looks with politicians heads and mannequins were presented with large animal heads. The heads were accompanied by slightly elongated tailored silhouettes. Tuxedos took abstract animal prints. Wires were inserted into necklines allowing for jackets to be worn in new ways. The accessories were robust, featuring antique finishes and hand applied treatments to finish of the looks.
