Opening Up The Wonderful World of Oud
By Jo Phillips
Oud a smokey divine fragrance ingredient was not in anyone’s vocabulary 21 years ago. Known only in the Middle East it was not some much a secret as an ingredient not understood. France in 2002, saw a handful of French traditional perfumery meeting eastern Oud, think YSL’s Eau de Parfum M7, which was then emulated by the likes of Tom Ford and Juliette Has a Gun. One man brought Oud to Europe like no one else. In 2003 one man who truly understood the power and greatness of Oud, Pierre Montale travelled to the Kingdom of Arabia and it was here that he began a journey with the fullness of Oud. Since then has championed and celebrated this magical ingredient not with a traditional French take but by understanding its greatness with an Arabic-come-European meeting. Image on left All Images Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe
You may well ask what exactly is Oud, well you may be slightly surprised by the answer. Well first meet the Aquilaria tree native to South Asia. If only it were that simple. The wood known as agarwood forms in the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree yet has no strong scent or colour, however, when it gets sick, is when things get really interesting.
After they become infected with a type of Phaeoacremonium mould, the tree defensively secretes a resin to combat the fungal infestation. Only then is Oud produced, a distillation process of the dark sticky aromatic resin, taken from the tree the substance. This needs to be stored away from the light for several years.
In Arabic culture, who refer to it as the Wood of the Gods, Oud is more than a fragrance it’s very much seen as a living tradition. Used in religious rituals, ceremonies, and as a mark of hospitality. The warm embrace of Oud welcomes guests into many Arabic households.
Inspired by the beauty and hidden secrets of the Eastern world, between the learning process and pure marvel, Pierre Montale started to compose with confidence his Oud juices alongside delicious rich materials such as Rose, Incense, Amber, and Cedar, into scents of happiness or even love potions. Pierre Montale was the first exporter of Oud to the West. He has now composed more than a hundred timeless fragrances.
His Scent brand unsurprisingly is called Montale Paris and includes a lot of best sellers including, Arabians Tonka a fine blend of spiced volute with, bewitching Roses, Tonka Bean and Bergamot revealing an animal temperament of Oud, Roses Musk a clean skin-loving musk blended together with a hint of sweetness of Rose
Intense Café where coffee bean is paired with a fresh, vegetal rose. The two combine for an unexpectedly dry and refreshing top note. As the coffee softens, a vanillic white musk emerges, slightly sweetening the brew with just a hint of cream and sugar. Amber Musk is a mysterious and carnal fragrance, that intertwines Musk and Ambergris in a dance of the senses Crazy in Love Wild Roses, meets with Violet Leaves, Saffron and Intense Amber. Recalling the nostalgic goodness of brown sugar infused with the sensual warmth of a vanilla bean and Dark Purple Floral and luscious notes on a dark, earthy and opulent base of Musk and Patchouli envelop top notes of Plum and Voluptuous Roses, and this is just to name a few.
His latest juice is in collaboration with London-based institution Harrods. Interestingly both brands have travel and distant lands in their DNA.
In 1849 the renowned store Harrods began its journey as a tea and spice merchant, in markets fragrant with Jasmine and Saffron from faraway lands. Not unlike the journey of perfume makers who went far afield to find the most perfect of ingredients.
Image Igor Wang
Harrods is 175 years old this year and the slightly younger Montale celebrated its twentieth anniversary so what a birthday present for both and of course the customers is the new elixir Rendez-vous chez Harrods.
Pierre Montale’s Middle Eastern Oud has graced Harrods luxurious corridors and halls with its enchanting aura, in the past two years, but this is a scent that is unique to the store.
If you are a lover of rich dynamic deep and sensual fragrances then wait for this. This powerful scent opens at the top with brightness and sparkle for beautiful Bergamot sitting snugly alongside a global selection including Cambodian Oud, with soft spice from Indian Saffron and Brazilian Pink Pepper.
A deep earthy centre is set off with Black Leather with earthy Indonesian Patchouli leaves and a subtle touch of Moroccan Rose.
This juice finishes with a flourish of rich and intense Amber with delicious creamy Brazilian Tonka and sweet caramel sandalwood from Mysore, all alongside earthy, and woody, sensuality from oakmoss and a warming caress from White Musk.
Deep woody earthy spices, with subtle sweetness, and a kiss of floral yet at the same time totally on trend with a luminous facet, this is a powerhouse of a fragrance yet it can be worn in a fresh morning vibe with a fresh white shirt or a night out dressed up in your best outfit.
As an ode to both the brand and Harrods think of 12,000 lights adorning the London night sky. A rich tapestry of a perfume one that hits the skin with all its Oud glory.
To find out everything about MontaleParfums.com please visit here
To find Rendez-Vous Chez Harrods.com Eau de Parfum please visit here