Cent Magazine brings you the highlights of Paris Fashion Week A/W16:
In true Chanel style Karl Largefeld showed Paris a colour pop adaptation of the traditional Chanel tweed, in playful pinks and reds. Two piece shirt and jackets in different cuts graced the catwalk along with almost every look topped with a unique Chanel flat topped round hat along with necks full of layers of pearls. The belted waist is certainly back, holding in tartan dresses and a padded coat worn by Gigi.
Hermes’ A/W collection proves that colour clash can be done with class, as burgundy shades are combined with corals and camels with blues. The clean-cut garments feature leather panels, high necks and silk draped bottom skirts.
Louis Vuitton created a 80s inspired collection with punk fundaments. Kick flare vinyl cigarette trousers were teamed with chunky boots, whilst leather bralets were styled on top of silk negligées.
Kenzo produced a collection focusing on the use of animal prints, whilst mixing these with various other designs including pinstripes and florals. Styles were experimental featuring 80s oversized ruffles and bell sleeves in velvet pastel tones.
Lanvin shaped their AW16 collection in feminine, sultry shades showcasing a true elegance. The belted gold metallic trench expressed a real statement, as did the layering of sheer laces and silks. Outfits were accessorised with heavy jewellery shown through drop earrings and embellished chokers.
Rick Owens built upon a collection drawing inspiration from Dali paintings. Fabrics were folded and creased to form abstract forms in shades of mint greens, whites, greys, browns and corals. The hair styling was a real statement, as models wore backcombed wig over their entire face, walking the catwalk in leather thigh high boots.
Sacai depicted the notion of love with influences drawn from the play ”love will save the day”. Sheer fabrics were juxtaposed with heavy military inspired designs in an array of colours such as violets, oranges and burgandys.
Lavish suits and silk white shirts were the dominating feature of Sarapol’s collection this Autumn/Winter. Matching two pieces were shown in a vast range of fabrics, from colourful tasselled sequins to holographic metallics. Models revealed their inner child as they sported dolly inspired make up and piggy tailed hair.
Stella McCartney displayed a modern take on the 20s, yet designs remained true to the elegance of that era. Metallic pleated dresses featured lace inserts and swan prints can be seen to portray an element of gracefulness. Outfits were seen layered with oversized quilted coats and denim tie-dye jackets.
Chloé explored whimsical styles and feminine layers shown through beautiful frilled hems and loose sheer silks. These dreamy bohemian styles were contrasted with edgy leather jumpsuits and biker style co ordinates whilst models sported neckties with each look. The statement piece of the collection was expressed through the shaggy technicolour coat.
Bernard Chandran exposed a blend of elements from his mixed oriental cultural heritage into the AW16 collection. A vibrant colour palette featuring oversized, exaggerated knitwear, Chinese scripted prints, metallic fabrics and pom pom belted accessorises showcased a blend of both creativity and culture.
Ellery created a collection for this Autumn/Winter surrounding the concept of liberating women from strict silhouettes during the 19th century. Garments include 70s inspired bell bottomed trousers, oversized tailoring and corset styled waistcoats.
Fee Dan’s AW collection drew inspiration from the Far East, creating vibrant styles from a green, violet and camel colour palette. Garments were amplified through the use of textured fabrics, shown through fur and leather trims and velvet ruffling.
Each x Other
Continuing to explore ‘arts meets fashion’ the Parisian label Each x Other feature text from poems woven into the looks. A vintage colour palette moved from black to browns, featuring mustard yellow, romantic beige and a rich red. 80’s inspiration is seen with the Punk Rock themes.
Lea Peackre presented a collection expressing the transition from nighttime to dawn. The garments are shown to be inspired by 90s sportswear with a touch of undeniable elegance shown through sheer panels, ruffles, petals and ripples. A simple monochromatic palette with strong structural tailoring played especially well alongside drawstring vinyls and 90s personalisation.
Y-Project central feature was the idea of the oversized, keeping garments baggy and oversized, yet were formed to cling to the feminine figure with perfection, as shown through the belted high-waisted trousers teamed with gathered lace up sleeve tops. Denim, velvet, stripes, leather, snakeskin – you name it, it was done with class.
Wanda Nylon’s AW16 collection conveys elements of playfulness and self-expression. Garments are shown in asymmetric forms with daring slits whilst references from the 80s are conveyed through lurex fabrics, bodysuits and padded jackets. Wanda Nylon teamed up with Maison Ernest to accessorise the clothes with wonderfully seductive vinyl thigh high boots.
With a fresh elegance a 70s and 90s theme was taken by Carven. Belted waists combined a layering of tweed, knits, shearling, sequins and lace. Loose hip hugging pants take you from urban looks to ethnic looks.
Pascal Millet unleashed glamour onto the catwalk, showcasing an array of designs perfect for the ultimate feminine lady. Pieces were kept loose yet structural whilst the colour palette in this collection included rich reds, khakis, navys and blacks. Feathers, sequins and embellishments were seen featured on both garments and trimmed onto shoes adding true sophistication as the models walked with 20s sleek, side parted hair.
Inspired by North West Europe, focusing on the attributes of Germany, the Chalayan AW 16-17 collection is based on precision cutting, experimentation and a luxurious modern wardrobe. Structured silhouettes with accentuated cuffs start off the catwalk show, followed by a more fluid silhouette created by flowing maxi dresses and jumpsuits. The collection ended with various graphic prints on straight cut maxi dresses and knitwear suits.
With themes from the modern Renaissance and a feel of unrequited love, the Coppelia Pique collection had gold masked models dressed in a variation of structured silk with southeast asian themes. A mixture of styling showed belted waists and mini skirts.
Issey Miyake used linear prints to create and emphasize the illusions of the shape of the garments. Coloured sole shoes reflected on the metallic catwalk. The collection had a futuristic theme with innovative shapes created by the garments.
Jitrois has created a collection that reflects the modern day woman as an object of power. Daring leopard prints, leather tailoring featuring fur accents teamed with lace-fronted details uncovering a certain sexiness to the garments.
Designer agnès b. unveiled an effortlessly chic collection, presenting pin stripe co ordinates, frayed denim, split bottom flares. Feminine cuts were conveyed through artistic printed dressed and draped silk tops, which were juxtaposed with jeans, adding a fun and experimental element.