Pitti Uomo 2015

By Jo Phillips

Marni:

For the latest Marni menswear collection, which was shown in Florence during Pitti Uomo,  designer Consuelo Castiglioni found the middle ground between lavishly elegant and primal minimalism. The sculptural shapes in rich tones were the most memorable. The elimination of collars brought a relaxed, young feel to the collection while the details of zips and bonded suede made it contemporary. The primal influence came from the use of sheepskin, goat, and alpaca which contrasted against clashing checks and flared pants. Marino Marini’s strong equestrian sculptures loomed over the gorgeous pieces in the museum that was named after him, where the show took place, while Panda Bear played the new tune “Boys Latin”. We particularly love the classic sweaters!

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T. Lipop:

T.Lipop, the winner, along with Alberto Premi of “WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO” 2014, was the star of this edition as Pitti Italics, the Fondazione Pitti Discovery program that both produce their work in Italy and show promise in the international market. “Winning Who Is On Next? has made it possible for us to acquaint the world with our brand’s creativity that finds its power in attention to detail, original lines and references to tradition”, says Tom Lipop. “Thanks to the support of the promoters and of the sponsors, Fashion Valley, Tomorrow and Yoox, we have been able to take our brand to the next level and we have organized a special fashion show to present our new collection. I hope that this experience can generate greater visibility. And I hope that we can emulate the success of Umit Benan and Andrea Incontri, just to mention two!” The collection beautifully fused the traditional with the modern, the soft with the hard, the minimal with the extravagant. The T.Lipop collection, from the innovative fabrics to the finished garments, was produced in the Prato district – thanks to the sponsorship of Fashion Valley Industry and its support for Who Is On Next? Uomo. t_lipop0063t_lipop0079 t_lipop0161 t_lipop0532

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Cloakroom: 

Leave it to Italy to inject an aura of cinematic drama to the menswear shows. Cloakroom, a performance piece written by fashion critic, historian and director of the Musée de la Mode Galliera of Paris Olivier Saillard and fashion icon Tilda Swinton. After his extraordinary achievement at S’habiller en Homme ‘Dress Like a Man’ in 2011” says Lapo Cianchi, Communications and Events Manager of Pitti Immagine, “we are proud to work with Olivier Saillard again. The director of the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is not just a brilliant and cultured fashion critic and historian, he is also the author/actor of successful theatrical pieces inspired by the world of fashion. Here in Florence, during Pitti Uomo, he will present a refined new performance centered on the suit, staring the outstanding Tilda Swinton. A real show that is lighthearted, ironic and chic”. Cloakrooms are sentimentally significant, as they are left in the entrances of theaters, museums, parties, and Swinton did a fantastic job at embodying the spirit of each one. In a way, the coats were her costars.

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 Alberto Premi:

Premi, who also won “WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO” 2014, created a presentation that can only be described in one word: electrifying! “Who Is On Next was an important test bench and it allowed me to show my creations to internationally significant members of the trade” – says Alberto Premi. “And the fact that they liked them confirmed that this is the path to follow. Thanks to Pitti Immagine, I’m going to have another great opportunity that I will try to exploit to the fullest. The 2015-16 fall/winter collection is a celebration of metamorphosis: my event in Florence will celebrate the fleeting moment in which colors, lights, shapes and technology find a perfect balance before they begin to evolve”. With this innovative show, Premi tells the story of how a product is created, from the way it is imagined to how it is manifested into three-dimensional reality. The shoes presented are classic Italian in that they portray immaculate craftsmanship and attention to detail. We know we’ll be seeing these on the rocky streets of Florence soon!

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Hood by Air:

Shayne Oliver, creative director of HBA, has a lot to celebrate as he recently took home the LVMH prize award, giving him the necessary funds and confidence to further grow his brand from cult status to international relevance. The fact that he showed during Pitti Uomo, an event known for its tradition and craftsmanship, means quite a lot too. It was refreshing to see old-fashioned tailoring be swapped with sporty yet lavish hoodies and sweatpants (the new suit maybe?). The styling was brave as models wore long eyelashes and high heels.

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Andrea Incontri:

Andrea Incontri is the Pitti Uomo 87 Designer Project. After taking a four-year hiatus, the designer who is known for simplicity of line and research on materials his signature, made a comeback in Florence with a special project to present the men’s clothing and accessory collections for Fall-Winter 2015-2016. His performance was hosted in the spectacular Palazzo Corsini, one of the symbols of Florentine culture and history.

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Alternative Set:

Alternative Set is the program of events and installations in on the Fortezza da Basso grounds that are staged by a select group of contemporary designers. Among the brands that were involved in the Alternative Set program include 1st Pat-Rn, Afffair, Harris Wharf London + Jimi Roos and Isabel Benenato.

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Arrivo Pitti Italics: 

Arrivoe is one of the Pitti Italics of Pitti Uomo 87. The designer duo Matteo Gioli (SuperDuperHats) and Stefano Ughetti (Camo) will be the Pitti Italics at the 87th Pitti Uomo. They staged a one-of-a-kind performance-event for the world premiere showing of their first duo-project, the Arrivo collection for men, inspired by their shared passion for cycling. The Pitti Immagine program was created to promote the new generation of designers who design and produce fashion in Italy and who already have a strong international presence.

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Jimi Roos For Harris Wharf London:

Harris Wharf London and Jimi Roos are joining forces for F/W 2015 at Pitti Uomo. The collection brought together two brands that are completely different yet equally respectable . Swedish- born Jimi Roos studied fashion design in Italy and designed his first debut collection in 2011 revolving around innovative embroidery techniques. Harris Wharf was created in 2010 out of the stylistic and manufacturing union of designer Giulia Acchiardi’s London workshop and her family’s factory in Turin. This collaboration will push each designer into another direction as they mixed the “rough” and unlined construction of Harris Wharf London coats and jackets with Jimi Roos’s special embroideries.

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